Msking your own through body string holes

[sax_man]

What is the feasibility of modifying a body by drilling your own through body string holes? I'm looking to do this with a MIM P-Bass.

[Johnny Crab]

Been seriously considering doing the same thing for my SX P/J since my other "budget" thur-body basses sound great. I was looking at either drilling the existing bridge(probably not) but will probably use allparts for the hardware. Bridge is listed down this page http://www.allparts.com/categories.p...INGLE%20STRING as part numbers BB_3415-003 and BB_3415-010



and getting these ferrules( http://www.allparts.com/categories.p...=MISCELLANEOUS ) for the backside(copying my other ones with thru-body):

with the ferrules it looks like you'll need to drill large holes to fit the entire ferrule in smaller holes to tap them(or gule them) into the body(same as the string hole).

[62bass]

There was a thread about this a couple weeks ago. Maybe you can find it. If you do it you really need a drill press to drill accurately. Even being off only a degree with a hand held drill will cause the string holes to come out in the wrong place on the back of the bass. You should also tape on a flat sheet of plywood to the back of the bass to prevent splitting when the bit comes through. I drill the first holes with a 1/8" bit, turn the bass over and drill the hole for the ferrule from the back, then go back to drilling from the top with a 3/16th bit. It's very exacting work if you want a neat job.

By the way, I find absolutely no sonic benefits from having the strings through the body. Some guys claim they can hear a difference and Bass Player used to promote the benefits, but I did it for myself. A bridge change will often make a difference though.

[PilbaraBass]

I seriously recommend against modifiying a non-through-hole bass to a through-hole...

there's no real benefit in doing so, and the process must be pretty precise.

The first thing I would do to improve a bass is a good setup...and if that ultimate setup is not feasible because of fret limitations, then I'd get a good fret leveling done on it...

[::::BASSIST::::]

I was think of doing this just for the E string. I figure it would have more focus and tightness in comparison to the other 3 strings and therefore would be more noticeable and have more of an impact sonically.

[PilbaraBass]

Originally Posted by VEGANBASS

I was think of doing this just for the E string. I figure it would have more focus and tightness in comparison to the other 3 strings and therefore would be more noticeable and have more of an impact sonically.

nahhh....not true...you "might" get a little bit more break angle over the bridge saddle, but not much...and the overall string tension won't change a bit.

the best thing you can do for your E-string, is when you string it, to push down firmly(towards the bass) just in front of the bridge saddle, to give you a good, solid witness point...this will affect the clarity of your E string, tremendously.

I was playing my Yammy in church last night, and I was really diggin' my open E...deep, clear goodness!

[::::BASSIST::::]

Hmmm... well, awhile back I was asking in another thread about STB basses and if its just not a marketing ploy. Quite a few TBers said it actually does make a difference so...

I dont know. I've been meaning to try it for awhile, but its low on my list of things to do. I guess I should look into it more before proceeding.

Thanks for the tip on the witness point. I'll try that.

[Foamy]

If you do it....
Drill from front to back, and as accurately as possible. Measure everything and make sure your drill bit is perpendicular in all planes, not just one.
Use an 1/8" bit or maybe a bit smaller for the pilot hole. Front to back, all the way through. Then flip the body over and use a Forstner bit and drill a very shallow hols to accomodate the head of the ferrule, not the body. This way, the ferrules will be flush. So, measure the thickness of the head and drill the holes (using your pilot hole to center them) just deep enough so that the ferrule heads are just flush.
Then, drill using NOT a Forstner bit for the body of the ferrule. Drill deep enough to accomodate the ferrule. Then flip back over and drill from the front with a bit that matches the hole in the bridge.
Make sense? Lemme know if you ahve any questions about this.
Key things....use safety glasses. Use a Forstner bit for the big (wide) hole from the back for the head of the ferrule. It'll cut a clean-edged, and flat hole. For the other holes, a twist bit is fine.
Good luck, if you do it....

I added a quick drawing. The silver is the bridge - the black is the hole already drilled in the bridge. The brown is the bass body. The red is the initial pilot hole. Try to use a bit small than 1/8" if your drill press can hold it, and if it will make it through the body. You'll see that I've shown the three additional holes: Bottom for the head, then the hole for the body that doesn't extend to the bridge, then the hole drilled from the front to accomodate the string.

[::::BASSIST::::]

Originally Posted by Enchanter_Tim

If you do it....
Drill from front to back, and as accurately as possible. Measure everything and make sure your drill bit is perpendicular in all planes, not just one.
Use an 1/8" bit or maybe a bit smaller for the pilot hole. Front to back, all the way through. Then flip the body over and use a Forstner bit and drill a very shallow hols to accomodate the head of the ferrule, not the body. This way, the ferrules will be flush. So, measure the thickness of the head and drill the holes (using your pilot hole to center them) just deep enough so that the ferrule heads are just flush.
Then, drill using NOT a Forstner bit for the body of the ferrule. Drill deep enough to accomodate the ferrule. Then flip back over and drill from the front with a bit that matches the hole in the bridge.
Make sense? Lemme know if you ahve any questions about this.
Key things....use safety glasses. Use a Forstner bit for the big (wide) hole from the back for the head of the ferrule. It'll cut a clean-edged, and flat hole. For the other holes, a twist bit is fine.
Good luck, if you do it....

I added a quick drawing. The silver is the bridge - the black is the hole already drilled in the bridge. The brown is the bass body. The red is the initial pilot hole. Try to use a bit small than 1/8" if your drill press can hold it, and if it will make it through the body. You'll see that I've shown the three additional holes: Bottom for the head, then the hole for the body that doesn't extend to the bridge, then the hole drilled from the front to accomodate the string.

Wow, that's above and beyond!

Thanks!

Thanks for your opinion as well Smash.

[62bass]

Originally Posted by VEGANBASS

I was think of doing this just for the E string. I figure it would have more focus and tightness in comparison to the other 3 strings and therefore would be more noticeable and have more of an impact sonically.

It won't.

[Turnaround]

Originally Posted by VEGANBASS

Hmmm... well, awhile back I was asking in another thread about STB basses and if its just not a marketing ploy. Quite a few TBers said it actually does make a difference so...

I dont know. I've been meaning to try it for awhile, but its low on my list of things to do. I guess I should look into it more before proceeding.

I have had basses that you can string either way. The only difference I found was that I needed longer strings if I was going through the body. Couldn't detect any difference in either the feel or the sound.

Doesn't mean that there's no difference - just that I couldn't detect it.

[202dy]

On some level there is probably a difference. What kind of metering one might need to measure that difference is unknown. Most people cannot differentiate between the two in a blind test. Many folks will claim to hear a difference when they can see the difference.

Some people are born with acute hearing. If they claim to hear something I cannot I will never argue. I've met people who could hear the slightest string buzz that I could only find with meter.

[::::BASSIST::::]

Maybe it is a marketing ploy after all. I know that I've seen some Fender MIA basses that have the STB.

[PilbaraBass]

Originally Posted by VEGANBASS

Maybe it is a marketing ploy after all. I know that I've seen some Fender MIA basses that have the STB.

some artists prefer it, as a result Fender has done this to some of their basses...

my Carvin AC40 is STB, but with an acoustic bridge saddle, it's the only practical way to anchor the strings...same deal with my wishbass

[sax_man]

Thanks for all the great advice and opinions. For now I think I'll just add the BAII bridge, and a Dimarzio Split-P pickup, and see how it goes from there.

[Foamy]

Originally Posted by sax_man

Thanks for all the great advice and opinions. For now I think I'll just add the BAII bridge, and a Dimarzio Split-P pickup, and see how it goes from there.

Good idea - now...go read the threads discussing if a BadAss actually makes a difference.
Good luck!