My g-string is digging into my nut...

CayceG · #1 09-26-2009, 11:05 PM

Now that I have your attention...

My g-string really is digging into my nut. I have a 2006 model Rickenbacker 4003 and I've had Rotosound RS66LDs on it since day 1. I dig in pretty hard when I play with my fingers and even with a pick I pluck the strings with authority.

And yesterday I noticed that my g-string has fretbuzz down at the 1st or 2nd fret. I checked my neck and it looks just as a Rick is supposed to--completely flat. I don't have a long enough straight edge to confirm with numbers, but there is no visible bow.

I loosened the string and looked at the nut and it's cut a groove in the nut just ever so slightly on the headstock side and probably even less on the neck side--enough to hear but not enough to see.

So what do I do? I know the truss rod isn't the problem and I haven't even had these strings for too long--since midsummer probably. I didn't think the nuts on Ricks were this fragile... maybe I'm playing too hard.

I really don't want to have to get a new nut for a Rickenbacker...

T-Bird · #2 09-27-2009, 01:04 AM

Hi.

GOD GRIEF, that must hurt like hell

.

I've built up too deeply cut nut slots with just CA, some people will add various substances to the mix.

That should do the trick

.

Regards
Sam

eee · #3 09-27-2009, 01:07 AM

NO COMMENT

LightGroove · #4 09-27-2009, 04:39 AM

Yep...superglue and baking soda should do the trick..some also recommend "graphite powder" and super glue...use an old string as a file.....a little goes a LOOONG way....you may want to use painters tape to make a trough (put on both sides of the nut) so the glue doesnt end up on the fretboard.

Correct me if Im wrong but upper fret buzz could also mean too straight of a neck...something to look into

**lowendfriend** · #5 09-27-2009, 05:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LightGroove

Yep...superglue and baking soda should do the trick..some also recommend "graphite powder" and super glue...use an old string as a file.....a little goes a LOOONG way....you may want to use painters tape to make a trough (put on both sides of the nut) so the glue doesnt end up on the fretboard.

Correct me if Im wrong but upper fret buzz could also mean too straight of a neck...something to look into

+1 on the too straight neck....ya might find a quarter turn on the truss rodd is all ya need.

Meatrus · #6 09-27-2009, 05:23 AM

I know they are uncomfortable

As said above I would loosen the truss rod before playing with your nut (get your priorites right

). I believe the grooves are supposed to be slightly angled towards the headstock also.

Turock · #7 09-27-2009, 06:20 AM

Go commando.

Albatross · #8 09-27-2009, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turock

Go commando.

what is that in bass terms?.........fretless?

if his neck is 2 straight the g would not be the only one buzzing imo.

Meatrus · #9 09-27-2009, 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Albatross

what is that in bass terms?.........fretless?

if his neck is 2 straight the g would not be the only one buzzing imo.

Could do, as the G string nut slot is deeper I think.

Zooberwerx · #10 09-27-2009, 09:19 AM

1) Check your relief. A too-straight neck may play havoc with your action in the 1st-5th fret range.

2) Depress the the G string at the 3rd fret and check clearance between the string and 1st fret (~.003"-.005")

3) No feeler gauges? Depress the G string at the 3rd fret and tap directly above the 1st fret. You should hear a distinctive "ping".

Riis

CayceG · #11 09-27-2009, 10:26 AM

There's no ping on the G when I depress at the 3rd fret and tap at the 1. But there is on the E, A and D. I'll adjust the rod just a bit and come back tomorrow to see if it helps any.

Zooberwerx · #12 09-27-2009, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CayceG

There's no ping on the G when I depress at the 3rd fret and tap at the 1. But there is on the E, A and D. I'll adjust the rod just a bit and come back tomorrow to see if it helps any.

Doubt if it will help. Sounds like you have adequate clearance on all strings but the G. Here's a quick way to double-check: place a small paper shim (post-it note, foil gum wrapper, etc.) in the G slot and re-tune. Do the "ping" test and play a few riffs to see if the buzz is still present.

Its still a good idea to reset your relief, though.

Riis

ByF · #13 09-27-2009, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CayceG

I don't have a long enough straight edge to confirm with numbers, but there is no visible bow.

Don't try to fix the problem until you KNOW what problem is.

You DO have a long enough straightedge--it's called a string.

Tune up the bass, put a capo (or a finger) on the first fret, put a finger on the first fret that's on the body (17th or 20th, whatever) and check the gap at the 8th fret. If the string is laying on the frets, you may have a straight neck, or you may have a back bow. Most basses need a little forware relief, especially if the player likes to dig in.

And you can check the individual nut slots with the string--put a capo between the 2nd and 3rd fret, and check the gap under each string at the first fret-- it should be about the thickness of a piece of paper, about .003 inch. If you tap the string over the 1st fret, you can hear if there's a gap.

Ed

CayceG · #14 09-27-2009, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ByF

Don't try to fix the problem until you KNOW what problem is.

You DO have a long enough straightedge--it's called a string.

Tune up the bass, put a capo (or a finger) on the first fret, put a finger on the first fret that's on the body (17th or 20th, whatever) and check the gap at the 8th fret. If the string is laying on the frets, you may have a straight neck, or you may have a back bow. Most basses need a little forware relief, especially if the player likes to dig in.

And you can check the individual nut slots with the string--put a capo between the 2nd and 3rd fret, and check the gap under each string at the first fret-- it should be about the thickness of a piece of paper, about .003 inch. If you tap the string over the 1st fret, you can hear if there's a gap.

Ed

Ricks do not need forward relief.

And I've tapped the strings on the first fret. The G is the only one that doesn't plink. And when I capo between the 2nd and 3rd the G doesn't plink.

ByF · #15 09-27-2009, 09:35 PM

I understand that. How do you know it doesn't have a back bow?

Ed

CayceG · #16 09-27-2009, 10:04 PM

The other strings plink when I tap them at the 1st.

ByF · #17 09-27-2009, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CayceG

The other strings plink when I tap them at the 1st.

So that proves the G slot is deeper than the others. It doesn't prove you don't have a back bow, or that the G slot is too deep. You won't know if you have a back bow until you loosen the truss rod and see.

MAYBE, you need to adjust the truss rod before you start putting superglue into your nut. Maybe the buzz on the G will go away if you do that.

I'm just suggesting that you check the neck before you start putting superglue into the nut. I think it's strange that the nut would be that worn on a 3 year old bass. I don't care how hard you play, that sounds strange--I play hard too, and I've never worn out a nut. On the other hand, bass necks change ALL THE TIME.

At least three or four other people have suggested that you try loosening the truss rod, but if you don't want to that's your business.

Ed

CayceG · #18 09-28-2009, 07:41 AM

I loosened my truss rod about 24 hours ago. When I check it here in a bit I may loosen it another 8th of a turn to see if that does anything.

Rickett Customs · #19 09-28-2009, 07:54 AM

JLS · #20 09-28-2009, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CayceG

Ricks do not need forward relief.

And I've tapped the strings on the first fret. The G is the only one that doesn't plink. And when I capo between the 2nd and 3rd the G doesn't plink.

What is it, that allows Rickenbackers to ignore the fact that a plucked string swings in an arc?

The G string nut slot is too low.