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  #1  
Old 02-19-2009, 12:38 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Asheville, North Carolina
Is my Jerry-rigging at the bridge affecting my sound/tone?

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I like these strings, but they don't fit the B string groove in the bridge. The obvious solution is to file the groove, but I haven't found someone willing to do it for cheaper than $60 yet, so that will come another time.

The string is Firmly anchored in the bridge, the only question is maybe the piece of string i'm "losing" out the back of the bridge is affecting my sound. Also, the string doesnt sit all the way down in the saddle, would this have any effect?

I am concerned because the notes on my B string sound......well......terrible. Like they're always flat, with a much more hollow sound than should be. Also, I get fretbuzz on the 5th fret and up ONLY on the B string, so......it could be a raised fret, but I can't find one that's raised using a flat edge.

HELP!

  #2  
Old 02-19-2009, 12:41 PM
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Just take a dremel tool to the slot in the bridge that's to narrow now. Just enough to allow the area of the string that's to wide to once again fit down into the slot.

I've had to do it to multiple bridges.
  #3  
Old 02-19-2009, 12:48 PM
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wow. I have to mod several as well for the labella flats or my me gauge low riders. never done it on a wick. it would be the same like the other guy said just open it up a tad and you should be good.
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  #4  
Old 02-19-2009, 12:52 PM
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A Dremel isn't necessary; a hand file will work, just take a while longer. In either case, I'd mask the area around the bridge and probably the adjacent areas of the bridge to avoid scuffs.
  #5  
Old 02-19-2009, 12:54 PM
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Oh, yeah - my guess is it ain't helping the tone any. Poor contact, poor transfer of vibrations and all that.
  #6  
Old 02-19-2009, 01:55 PM
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Thanks for the quick replies!

I'm sure a dremel would cost way more than $60, and I'm not really sure a metal file is very cheap either but I will definitely be going that option, unless someone has a better idea
  #7  
Old 02-19-2009, 01:58 PM
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Odds are there's someone you know with a dremel tool. Opening it up enough only takes like 4-5 seconds with a dremel tool.


.
  #8  
Old 02-19-2009, 02:17 PM
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I'd guess that it's definitely affecting the tone. And, as a Jerry, I have to offer a correction at your jury-rigged solution at the bridge.

If the string is that much larger in diameter than the one it replaced, I'm not surprised you're getting buzz. Probably worth waiting until you solve the issue at the bridge, but I imagine a small truss rod adjustment would cure it.

Finally, is there simply a lighter-gauge string of the same brand/set that would solve your problem? Perhaps a taper-core? Obviously your call whether or not to modify the bridge, but if money is a concern, purchasing a single string might be the cheapest route. Good luck.
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  #9  
Old 02-19-2009, 03:09 PM
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It looks to me like your B string is not making a proper break at the saddle. You need to do three things:

1. Open up the mounting point for the B string so it fits properly

2. Widen the saddle slot so the B string sits on the bridge properly

3. Create a good break angle by pressing the string down simulataneously on both sides of the bridge saddle. Right now the string is not forming a good break at the saddle - it's forming a hump over the saddle that extends toward the nut side of the bridge. This will cause poor response and intonation issues.
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  #10  
Old 02-19-2009, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VroomVroom View Post
I'd guess that it's definitely affecting the tone. And, as a Jerry, I have to offer a correction at your jury-rigged solution at the bridge.
I was going to correct your correction, but got this from Wikipedia:

"The phrase "jerry-built" has a separate origin and implies shoddy workmanship not necessarily of a temporary nature.

The term "jerry-rigged" is a relatively recent mingling (or perhaps garbling) of "jury rig" with "jerry-built"."

Looks like it's slowly slipping into the dictionary, but you are right.
  #11  
Old 02-19-2009, 05:39 PM
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Dremel or drill with proper-sized bits. I'd remove it from the bass when working on it.

I'd be surprised if your intonation is proper. None of mine have the B & E saddles at the same point.
  #12  
Old 02-19-2009, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustDavid View Post
"The phrase "jerry-built" has a separate origin and implies shoddy workmanship not necessarily of a temporary nature.
Oof. Please don't share that with my boss. Or my wife.

Looks like I'm going to have to do some gerrymandering to keep my name out of that dictionary.

Thank you, I'll be here all week. Sorry for the tangent...good luck with the B string!
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Last edited by VroomVroom : 02-19-2009 at 06:30 PM. Reason: I spell better than I type.
  #13  
Old 02-19-2009, 06:26 PM
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Thumbs down

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turnaround View Post
It looks to me like your B string is not making a proper break at the saddle. You need to do three things:

1. Open up the mounting point for the B string so it fits properly

2. Widen the saddle slot so the B string sits on the bridge properly

3. Create a good break angle by pressing the string down simulataneously on both sides of the bridge saddle. Right now the string is not forming a good break at the saddle - it's forming a hump over the saddle that extends toward the nut side of the bridge. This will cause poor response and intonation issues.
YUP looks that way to me too. no way you are getting proper intonation with that marvel of engineering.
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  #14  
Old 02-20-2009, 08:12 AM
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Thanks for all the replies, I think i'm at the point where it'll be worth shelling out $50 for a professional setup, as I'm not so sure about a lot of things any more, and I've basically taken it apart and put it back together myself over the years and it is starting to sound like garbage ;x
  #15  
Old 02-21-2009, 08:06 AM
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I'm having the same problem with my Studio 5.

Have you thought about trying out a tapered string in the meantime?

Side note, what gauge of B is that?
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  #16  
Old 02-21-2009, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustDavid View Post
I was going to correct your correction, but got this from Wikipedia:

"The phrase "jerry-built" has a separate origin and implies shoddy workmanship not necessarily of a temporary nature.

The term "jerry-rigged" is a relatively recent mingling (or perhaps garbling) of "jury rig" with "jerry-built"."

Looks like it's slowly slipping into the dictionary, but you are right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VroomVroom View Post
Oof. Please don't share that with my boss. Or my wife.

Looks like I'm going to have to do some gerrymandering to keep my name out of that dictionary.

Thank you, I'll be here all week. Sorry for the tangent...good luck with the B string!
Wow. There is a lot of jerrying going on here
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  #17  
Old 02-22-2009, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeyswood View Post
Wow. There is a lot of jerrying going on here
I think Vroom & I are slugging it out to see who's the Dean of Jerry'ing.
  #18  
Old 02-22-2009, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turnaround View Post
It looks to me like your B string is not making a proper break at the saddle. You need to do three things:

1. Open up the mounting point for the B string so it fits properly

2. Widen the saddle slot so the B string sits on the bridge properly

3. Create a good break angle by pressing the string down simulataneously on both sides of the bridge saddle. Right now the string is not forming a good break at the saddle - it's forming a hump over the saddle that extends toward the nut side of the bridge. This will cause poor response and intonation issues.
+1, especially to making sure that low B is dead straight from each end; you'll need to push on it a little at the nut, and for the same reason.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JustDavid View Post
...I'd remove it from the bass when working on it.
+1000
take that tailpiece off before getting near it with a file or drill!

it's actually fairly easy to fix this problem: take that tailpiece, put it in a vise (padded, so you don't scratch it), find a drill bit that's just the thickness of the overwrapped section of the troublesome B string, and drill the slot out so the string fits.

the tailpiece is pretty soft metal, but you might need to use a couple drill bits, one just larger than the slot is now, then one just larger than that, til you get the slot wide enough for the string.
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  #19  
Old 02-22-2009, 06:00 PM
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no matter how much you like those strings, it would help to get a different pair... imo
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  #20  
Old 02-23-2009, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkzepphish View Post
no matter how much you like those strings, it would help to get a different pair... imo
Or widen the bridge and use any strings you want... imo
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