My Sadowsky is a MESS! (relief/setup)

[thehurlatron]

I got a new Sadowsky Metro a couplle of weeks ago, and it arrived from a Metro dealer buzzing all over.

I followed some instructions online about setting neck relief and adjusting the saddles, and with no luck.

I adjusted the neck to the proper thickness at the 8th fret with the 1st and last fretted.

I read that if you lower the saddles and it buzzes in the first position or above the 12th fret, the the neck is still off, but if it buzzes all over, then just raise the saddles.

well. It buzzes between the 5th and 12th fret now real bad. What should I do?

The 2 local techs here are idiots so that is not really an option. Do I need to pack it up and send it to NYC for the Sadowsky team to do it up right? And if I send it in, what are the chances that it will come back setup perfectly? (weather conditions during shipping ect)

[thehurlatron]

Okay. with a 24" metal straight edge on the frets, I currently have .012" between the top of the 7th 8th fret to the bottom of the S.E.

The buzzing for the most part has gone away, but the saddles are pretty high. Is this a concern?

[thehurlatron]

Originally Posted by Joshua

For those of us who don't use such precise measurements, is that about a business card's worth of relief?

I'm not too hip to precise measures either, but I have a feeler gauge so I thought I'd use that. Plus I've seen some pretty thick/thin business cards.

[Craig Garfinkel]

Hurly,

You've got a new Metro that's giving you problems. Instead of trying to get info on what to do here, why not call the Sadowsky shop directly at 718-422-1123?

They'll be more than happy to advise you, and are certainly the best source as to exactly what you should try to do on your own. They'll probably also be interested in knowing that you received a bass from a dealer in less than perfect playing condition.

[202dy]

Originally Posted by thehurlatron

I'm not too hip to precise measures either, but I have a feeler gauge so I thought I'd use that. Plus I've seen some pretty thick/thin business cards.

Feeler gauges and precision straight edges! You are to be applauded for taking an intelligent, scientific approach to measuring lumber. If you've got the tools, use 'em.

Twelve thousandths is a good starting point. You can fine tune the adjustments from there. Joshua is spot on about keeping records. By recording your changes the next time you set up your bass you can establish the starting point for adjustments quickly.

[Bayou_Brawler]

yikes. i don't know if i would ship it just to do a set up...as most basses "move" over time and require a set up every month or so...or at least a little tweak to get it back to where you like it...

i would make an effort to find SOMEONE that knows what they are doing...pay them to do a set up and teach you how to do it at the same time...

it's really not difficult when you figure it out...

[pickles]

Buzzing between 5 and 12, but not below 5 or above 12 is a very odd problem statement. I've never seen a bass do that. You might want to have it looked at.

My metro was set up perfectly with near flat relief, a hair above 3/32 on the E string to a hair above 2/32 on the G. Perfect, radius-matched medium low action and totally buzz free. I'd email Roger, he'll help.

When you're measuring relief, be sure to capo the first fret and fret the 21st to take both the nut and saddle out of the equation. And when you're measuring action, do it to the bottom of the string at the 12th fret and capo or fret the bass at the first fret to take the nut out of the equation. You may be doing that already, I can't tell.

No matter what happens with this bass, it is critical to learn to do your own setups, since that makes more of a difference in how a bass plays than anything else. As you now know, a perfectly set up fender MIM will play better than a tweaked Sadowksy.

[Lindsey]

BTW, most automotive parts shops sell really nice 6" precision steel rulers graduated in 64ths.Under $5. Essential for a good setup. The Sadowsky article available at this site walks you throught their set up procedure. Good stuff. It realy helped me dial in my Stingray.

[thehurlatron]

Originally Posted by Lindsey

BTW, most automotive parts shops sell really nice 6" precision steel rulers graduated in 64ths.Under $5. Essential for a good setup. The Sadowsky article available at this site walks you throught their set up procedure. Good stuff. It realy helped me dial in my Stingray.

Thanks.

All my problems were solved already.......bass related at least

I have a 6" rule and used the Sadowsky article as a guide. This was my first "real" setup on my own. I've always paid a hack at my local shop to do it. I messed around with it on and off for a day, and it's better than ANY setup I've ever had before.

[KJung]

Originally Posted by thehurlatron

Thanks.

All my problems were solved already.......bass related at least

I have a 6" rule and used the Sadowsky article as a guide. This was my first "real" setup on my own. I've always paid a hack at my local shop to do it. I messed around with it on and off for a day, and it's better than ANY setup I've ever had before.

Cool! The Sadowsky fretwork is wonderful, so it's usually just getting the truss rod adjustment correct, since that can move a little in shipping.

One thing about the 'Sadowsky set-up' at the shop, is that, at least for the two I've purchased new, they set the string height 'straight across' versus following the contour of the fretboard radius. This always makes the G and D string to seem very high. I just bring the G and D down a touch, reintonate, and I've been good to go for a long time. Those necks are really stiff.... very little movement or need to adjust.

Enjoy!

Ken

[KJung]

Originally Posted by pickles

Buzzing between 5 and 12, but not below 5 or above 12 is a very odd problem statement. I've never seen a bass do that

Actually, that's EXACTLY what will happen when the neck flattens out too much. Loosening the truss rod a small amount will put more relief in the neck... and will most impact the 'middle of the neck', since there is very little impact of the truss rod... you guessed it ... below the 5th fret and above the 12th.

That's actually a good problem to have, and is usually fixed by a very slight loosening of the rod.

After you've done a few hundred set-ups , you will get a very good feel for your neck. I've gotten to the point where I can just site down the neck when placed on the floor tilted up directly in front of a light source, and adjust the neck of a bass based on the 'shadow' of the strings (which of course follow the curve of the neck) relative to the strings themselves, which are absolutely straight. It's a nice way to site in a neck adjustment.

[thehurlatron]

Originally Posted by KJung

Cool! The Sadowsky fretwork is wonderful, so it's usually just getting the truss rod adjustment correct, since that can move a little in shipping.

Ken

I got this from a Metro dealer not Sadowsky. This was not a case of "a little shifting" from shipping. This was out of whack. But I'm pretty sure it's good now.

[KJung]

Originally Posted by thehurlatron

I got this from a Metro dealer not Sadowsky. This was not a case of "a little shifting" from shipping. This was out of whack. But I'm pretty sure it's good now.

Cool... by 'out of whack', I assume you didn't have to file frets... just adjust the saddle height and neck relief. That's no big deal, as you found out. You might want to reset the intonation if you significantly changed the saddle heights though... either by investing in a Peterson tuner (the strobostomps are quite affordable... come to think of it... you might have one! I know somebody did at our GTG!), or take it to a set-up guy. A simple strobe tune is usually $10, and money well spent.

Ken

[ZoomBoy]

Originally Posted by thehurlatron

Thanks.

All my problems were solved already.......bass related at least

I have a 6" rule and used the Sadowsky article as a guide. This was my first "real" setup on my own. I've always paid a hack at my local shop to do it. I messed around with it on and off for a day, and it's better than ANY setup I've ever had before.

Congrats on what appears to have been a positive experience. IMO everyone should learn now to make these basic adjustments on their own basses. Saves you $$$ and you learn alot about your instrument(s). I've been doing my own setups for years now. I never measure anything...I go by feel and knowing how I like my basses to play. It's amazing how I can get every one of them setup so close to each other now.

[Tony G]

Originally Posted by ZoomBoy

Congrats on what appears to have been a positive experience. IMO everyone should learn now to make these basic adjustments on their own basses. Saves you $$$ and you learn alot about your instrument(s). I've been doing my own setups for years now. I never measure anything...I go by feel and knowing how I like by basses to play. It's amazing how I can get every one of them setup so close to each other now.

+1

I've never measured. I just eyeball everything into place and adjust as needed. I get necks pretty straight, and my action at a nice medium-low setting, and I've never measured once. It's all about feel baby..

[pickles]

Originally Posted by KJung

Actually, that's EXACTLY what will happen when the neck flattens out too much. Loosening the truss rod a small amount will put more relief in the neck... and will most impact the 'middle of the neck', since there is very little impact of the truss rod... you guessed it ... below the 5th fret and above the 12th.

I've had lots of basses drift into having the relief too flat, but I've never had one that would play cleanly in the first 5 frets and not from 5-10. The first place the relief creates buzz or rattle is at the first fret then progressing upward, at least with my touch, strings, and saddle height settings.

[202dy]

Originally Posted by pickles

I've had lots of basses drift into having the relief too flat, but I've never had one that would play cleanly in the first 5 frets and not from 5-10. The first place the relief creates buzz or rattle is at the first fret then progressing upward, at least with my touch, strings, and saddle height settings.

This is symptomatic of a neck in a back bow. It is not unusual at all.

[thehurlatron]

Originally Posted by 202dy

This is symptomatic of a neck in a back bow. It is not unusual at all.

So what are you saying? Do I need to tighten the truss rod?

I thought I had it all good, but I was wrong. After setting for a couple days, it's no good already.

[Figjam]

Back bow generally means , if everyone uses the term the same way, that your truss rod is too tight.

[bassman275]

Do not tighten the truss rod!!Sounds to me like it's already too tight!