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Old 03-20-2008, 05:31 PM
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Nasty Fret buzz from certain notes...

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I have an Ibanez soundgear bass and about 2 weeks ago I was screwing around with it adjusting the bridge and string action also messed with the truss rod to give the neck a little bit of a conclave curve. I don't know what Im doing other that stuff I read online and just today I moved the strings a little higher because it seemed as though they were rubbing on the fretboard and now certain notes namely the D, Db, C, and I think B ( I got to check again ) make a nasty buzz no matter where I play the note on the fret board. What could have caused this and how do I fix it?
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Old 03-21-2008, 03:28 AM
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Are you quite certain that it is fret buzz? It could be a sympathetic vibration from a tuner or a part on the bridge. Or it could even be the truss rod vibrating, if you recently adjusted that.
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loops84 View Post
I have an Ibanez soundgear bass and about 2 weeks ago I was screwing around with it adjusting the bridge and string action also messed with the truss rod to give the neck a little bit of a conclave curve. I don't know what Im doing other that stuff I read online and just today I moved the strings a little higher because it seemed as though they were rubbing on the fretboard and now certain notes namely the D, Db, C, and I think B ( I got to check again ) make a nasty buzz no matter where I play the note on the fret board. What could have caused this and how do I fix it?
I'd carefully read the "stickys" at the top of this forum, but simply put, I'd pay special attention to:
  • Accurately measuring the distance between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string to determine your string-height. Fender suggests fret 17, but I hear people measure at the last fret and fret 12 too.
  • Accurately measuring the distance between the top of the 8th fret (per Fender) and the bottom of a string fretted at the first and last fret (so it becomes a straight-edge).
In general, you should have about "2 playing cards" thickness ("relief") between a straight-edge and the top of the 8th fret. Actual relief you need depends on your playing style and the quality of your fretwork.

Rather than using the "string as a straight-edge" approach, I cut-off a 24" segment of an aluminum drywall square, which cost me about $12. A quality precision 24" straight-edge would cost you about $60.

I also prefer to measure in 64ths of an inch. Radio Shack and other places (Home depot?) sell a little 6" ruler which is good for that.

Finally, on some basses, you'll need to let the neck "settle-in" a bit after the truss-rod adjustment. I've heard people say to wait an hour to several days, but I don't want to start a "flame war". I will say that small changes of the truss-rod are best - I prefer to stick with 1/4 turn/day and let the neck settle overnight, but I'm not a "real tech" that does this for a livin'. In any case, if the truss-rod seems to be tightened all the way, don't force it!!!

Last edited by dbcandle : 03-21-2008 at 06:06 AM.
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