necK adjustment question after changing to Ti flats

[chief ten beers]

I was wondering if someone could advise me.I have a 62 ri jazz bass and recently strung it up with ti flats.i like the sound and feel but it now buzzes out a little and can tell there should be an adjustment made on the neck.I'm thinking i need to tighten up the tension in the neck a little right?Do i turn the truss rod clockwise or counter clockwise to accomplish this?thanks in advance

[pkr2]

Originally Posted by chief ten beers

I was wondering if someone could advise me.I have a 62 ri jazz bass and recently strung it up with ti flats.i like the sound and feel but it now buzzes out a little and can tell there should be an adjustment made on the neck.I'm thinking i need to tighten up the tension in the neck a little right?Do i turn the truss rod clockwise or counter clockwise to accomplish this?thanks in advance

There are two adjustments that control fret buzz. Bridge height or the truss rod.

The adjustment that you normally use depends on where the buzz is occurring on the fingerboard.

If it's only buzzing on the first 5 or 6 frets, adjust the TR.

You'll be releasing tension on the truss rod which allows the string tension to put a slight forward bow in the neck. CCW, loosen TR.
Buzzing on the higher notes, adjust bridge saddle height.

[chief ten beers]

i don't think the saddles need adjusting as it was fine before.it's around the 15th fret and below on the A string that it starts fretting out.the top end is fine,it's when i start playing towards the bridge and beyond it that i start running in to trouble.

[62bass]

Originally Posted by chief ten beers

i don't think the saddles need adjusting as it was fine before.it's around the 15th fret and below on the A string that it starts fretting out.the top end is fine,it's when i start playing towards the bridge and beyond it that i start running in to trouble.

To back off the truss rod you turn the nut counter clockwise. Sometimes you have to adjust both the height of the saddles and the truss rod. Check to see if you have any relief in the neck. There should be a small amount. If the neck is dead straight or back bowed, back off the truss rod and check it again.

[chief ten beers]

thanks guys

[pharaohamps]

TI Flats are very elastic, low tension strings in my experience. Loosening the truss rod perhaps 1/4 to 1/2 turn should do it. Go slow and take your time, a little turn does a lot.

Matt Farrow

[pkr2]

Originally Posted by chief ten beers

i don't think the saddles need adjusting as it was fine before.it's around the 15th fret and below on the A string that it starts fretting out.the top end is fine,it's when i start playing towards the bridge and beyond it that i start running in to trouble.

..OK.

Then you have a clear choice. Make the proper adjustment to start with or adjust whatever you think might fix it.

If you already know what the problem isn't, how can you not know what the problem is??

[GlennW]

Sounds like a low A saddle to me. A truss rod adjustment won't change a whole lot above the 15th fret.

[pkr2]

Originally Posted by GlennW

Sounds like a low A saddle to me. A truss rod adjustment won't change a whole lot above the 15th fret.

My thoughts exactly.

[chief ten beers]

Originally Posted by pkr2

..OK.

Then you have a clear choice. Make the proper adjustment to start with or adjust whatever you think might fix it.

If you already know what the problem isn't, how can you not know what the problem is??

sorry pkr2,my novice thinking was that it was just a matter of tweaking the neck to adjust to the slacker tension
of the ti's as it had heavier gage strings on it previously.i was hoping i didn't have to adjust the saddles as well but that my be the case,i haven't done the neck yet so i'm not sure yet.so to start with the neck neck adjustment i would turn it counter clockwise then correct?

[202dy]

Originally Posted by chief ten beers

sorry pkr2,my novice thinking was that it was just a matter of tweaking the neck to adjust to the slacker tension
of the ti's as it had heavier gage strings on it previously.i was hoping i didn't have to adjust the saddles as well but that my be the case,i haven't done the neck yet so i'm not sure yet.so to start with the neck neck adjustment i would turn it counter clockwise then correct?

Lefty loosey, righty tighty.

Turning the adjusment nut CCW loosens the truss rod. Loosening the truss rod will allow string tension to introduce more relief in the neck. Relief is the amount of curvature in the fingerboard. CW will tighten the truss rod, placing the neck into compression and removing relief, or making the fingerboard flatter.

[ErnieD]

STOP! You should read back over the replies here. From what your telling us where the buzz is happening, looks like thier recommending you adjust the A string saddle first, if I am understanding everything I've read here.

[Scott in Dallas]

Originally Posted by ErnieD

STOP! You should read back over the replies here. From what your telling us where the buzz is happening, looks like thier recommending you adjust the A string saddle first, if I am understanding everything I've read here.

I agree. If it's only happening on one string then the saddle should be the first adjustment. You don't get a front end alignment if one tire is a few pounds low.

[pkr2]

Originally Posted by ErnieD

STOP! You should read back over the replies here. From what your telling us where the buzz is happening, looks like thier recommending you adjust the A string saddle first, if I am understanding everything I've read here.

Exasperating, ain't it? LOL

[202dy]

Just answering questions as they occur.

Start with the simple solution and work outward to the more complex. Adjust the saddle. Count the number of turns so that it can be returned to the starting point if desired.

If making adjustments to an instrument is confusing or intimidating, take it to a pro.