Neck/body straightness?

Thunder_Fingers · #1 04-25-2007, 03:20 AM

Hi.
I just wondered how i make 100% sure that the neck on my bass is 100% straight out from the body relating to the bridge, is it just something i sight looking at how far each string is from the side of the fretboard? what do builders use to find this?

202dy · #2 04-25-2007, 05:02 AM

Look at the lie of the strings. The distance from the outside of the string to the edge of the fingerboard on each side should be be even. Typical margin on a Fender style neck is ~1/8". The tool that techs and builders use is a steel rule, usually with gradations of 1/64".

Thunder_Fingers · #3 04-25-2007, 05:15 AM

Ok, with bolt on necks, that will take a long time, wont it? i mean, my fender have a to big neck pocket so in order to get it set straight in, i will just have to be move it a little bit, tune it up, check the string allignment(sp?) and if its not corect, loosen up the neck andf try again? i think the nut is a bit crocked in, so ill have to change that before i get something done to...

62bass · #4 04-25-2007, 06:04 AM

If you go to the Moses (graphite neck) site and search around, you will find instructions on how to mount their necks and how to align the neck for perfect string placement. If you read it and make a sketch of how to go about it, it's quite easy to do. You may have to plug the screw holes that already exist in your neck and re-drill them. You will also need an adjustable clamp such as a C clamp with a deep throat. (I use a QuickClamp which I can operate with one hand.) Once you've got the neck properly placed and mounted, you might need to make up some very thin shims to fill in the neck pocket and help hold the neck in place, if the neck pocket is very sloppy. It's not a big deal to do.

I've done this on my and others Fenders that had too wide neck pockets and it works great.

202dy · #5 04-25-2007, 06:20 AM

It does not take long at all. If you have to drill and remount it is about at half an hour's worth of work. Make sure the clamp face allows access to all the bolt holes. Once you have then neck aligned and clamped take a drill bit that is just slightly smaller in diameter than the bolt holes and twist it into the back of the neck to locate the new holes. Flag the bit that you will drill the neck with some masking tape to serve as a visual indicator so you do not drill through the fingerboard.

But this is all academic. You may be able to line up your neck and drive the existing bolts home. If you haven't, try this first.

Thunder_Fingers · #6 04-25-2007, 06:45 AM

I think ill push that nut in to place first before i try again, i think that was what messed up for me the last time... i think they match up to each other corectly now though..

But how will a clamp manage to fit in there while the G or E string is still on? As far as i remember, the clamps aint flat enough to not touch the string?

62bass · #7 04-25-2007, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thunder_Fingers

I think ill push that nut in to place first before i try again, i think that was what messed up for me the last time... i think they match up to each other corectly now though..

But how will a clamp manage to fit in there while the G or E string is still on? As far as i remember, the clamps aint flat enough to not touch the string?

It's worked for me and countless others, so you might be thinking of some other type of clamp or have a wrong idea of the procedure. A "C" clamp that will open up to about 5 or 6" will do it. The wooden woodworkers clamps won't fit. Take a look at some C clamps.

You take off the A and D strings and leave on the E and G strings but only tighten them up enough to straighten them out, not up to correct pitch.

Thunder_Fingers · #8 04-25-2007, 02:31 PM

Like this? no wonder i didnt quite understand what you meant, they aint called clamps in norway, like the other i thought you meant but "Tvinge" directly translated in to "Forcer"..

Thanks for the help, once i get the new nut and all that stuff, i will get right to it!

62bass · #9 04-25-2007, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thunder_Fingers

Like this? no wonder i didnt quite understand what you meant, they aint called clamps in norway, like the other i thought you meant but "Tvinge" directly translated in to "Forcer"..

Thanks for the help, once i get the new nut and all that stuff, i will get right to it!

Sorry, I forgot about the language difference. I got caught on that once before. I think with a Swede.

Yes, that's the type of clamp to use.

Thunder_Fingers · #10 04-28-2007, 07:36 AM

Ok, thanks, i dont have one exactly like that, its a more "wimpier version" of it, but i think it will do the work. thanks for the help.