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12-23-2012, 09:32 PM
| | | | neck, fretboard, and finish repair help! Ok, so this is my brothers axe, an Esp/Ltd. It WAS a really clean axe, until he had it shipped to his new post at Fort Lejeune NC from 29 Palms CA. He disassembled it and wrapped everything in bubble wrap, but for some reason FedEx damaged the box and did some damage to both the neck and body. See the pics below. Anyhoo, I figured id put this problem to the resident TB luthiers. What's the easiest, cheapest way to fix each piece of damage? This may not be a very expensive axe, but its his baby and it was extremely clean until he shipped it. Thanx in advance guys! | 
12-23-2012, 09:37 PM
| | | | Aaaand the body damage | 
12-23-2012, 09:42 PM
| | | | Better fretboard pic | 
12-24-2012, 05:23 PM
| | | | It looks like a poly-finish, and considering its not a "very expensive" ESP im going to say poly-finish.
In other words your cheapest and best route would be doing absolutely nothing! =D Poly finishes are unrepairable. Sooo unless you're feeling froggy and want to sand the entire body down and start new, congrats you now own a "Super Delux Road-Worn Series" ESP. | 
12-24-2012, 06:12 PM
|  | Registered muser | | Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: US-NY-NYC | | | I would think that the cracking in the clear on the neck would be improved by letting thin CA wick into the cracks, then drop fill any depressions with CA, then smooth it out through a series of grits. It could end up close to invisible.
__________________ "Art without engineering is dreaming; engineering without art is calculating." | 
12-24-2012, 08:54 PM
| | Registered User Bass Technician, Club Bass - Toronto | | Join Date: May 2004 Location: Toronto Canada | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Dauby90 Poly finishes are unrepairable. | Well actually, not only are they repairable, but with today's materials and methods they're actually a relatively easy repair as finish repairs go.
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12-24-2012, 10:17 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Dauby90 It looks like a poly-finish, and considering its not a "very expensive" ESP im going to say poly-finish.
In other words your cheapest and best route would be doing absolutely nothing! =D Poly finishes are unrepairable. Sooo unless you're feeling froggy and want to sand the entire body down and start new, congrats you now own a "Super Delux Road-Worn Series" ESP. | I just read this reply to my brother and he's still laughing lol. Actually he fixed it ok. He sanded the edges down smooth then took the whole thing to NAPA where the paint guy color matched him a small aerosol can of the red as well as a touch up bottle. So it looks ok now. As far as the neck we just sanded it until the scratches were out. The fretboard is still an issue with him tho. Its completely playable but looks like crap :/ | 
12-24-2012, 10:50 PM
|  | Registered muser | | Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: US-NY-NYC | | Quote:
Originally Posted by slappa_dat_bass The fretboard is still an issue with him tho. Its completely playable but looks like crap :/ | Is any part of the damage denting, or is is it entirely chipped-removed wood?
Dents can be steamed out. For this to work, the wood has to be bare, no hard finish on the surface.
1. Fold an old t-shirt a few layers thick, and wet it.
2. Position the cloth over the dent.
3. Apply the tip of a hot clothes iron to the spot for a few seconds.
I've never done it on rosewood, but I know that on others it works very well.
Try this before you even think of sanding out the damaged edge. If you do do any sanding, give the steamed area a full day of drying first.
__________________ "Art without engineering is dreaming; engineering without art is calculating." | 
12-25-2012, 08:04 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by pilotjones Is any part of the damage denting, or is is it entirely chipped-removed wood?
Dents can be steamed out. For this to work, the wood has to be bare, no hard finish on the surface.
1. Fold an old t-shirt a few layers thick, and wet it.
2. Position the cloth over the dent.
3. Apply the tip of a hot clothes iron to the spot for a few seconds.
I've never done it on rosewood, but I know that on others it works very well.
Try this before you even think of sanding out the damaged edge. If you do do any sanding, give the steamed area a full day of drying first. | No its chipped out. I'm considering using some clear epoxy with rosewood dust in it to bring the corner out. Like you would do to fill fretlines during a defret. | 
12-25-2012, 12:48 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Manitoba, Canada | | |
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*1962 Jazz. '74ish Ampeg V4B, 115/210. * '75 Gibson G3. *Epi Tbird. *Squier: VM Jazz, CV 50's P. *Squier VM Jazz Assoc. *MBC 641. Squier owners club
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12-25-2012, 08:46 PM
| | | | the superglue idea may work if it will look as good as it did | 
12-26-2012, 11:55 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | Quote:
Originally Posted by slappa_dat_bass I just read this reply to my brother and he's still laughing lol. Actually he fixed it ok. He sanded the edges down smooth then took the whole thing to NAPA where the paint guy color matched him a small aerosol can of the red as well as a touch up bottle. So it looks ok now. As far as the neck we just sanded it until the scratches were out. The fretboard is still an issue with him tho. Its completely playable but looks like crap :/ | Well, that lets the shipper off the hook. They're no longer responsible for it since you've messed with it.
I was going to say have the shipper pay for a refin or a replacement bass - but you've lost that option.
Your best option - do the homework and learn how to do a complete refin yourself. It will take 20-40 hours the first time, but done right it will look great. You'll have to strip the body and neck (you will NOT like that part), sand and prep, seal, sand, shoot base coat, sand, then shoot color coat, then shoot clear coats, then finish sand and polish. Acrylic lacquer from Stewart-McDonald is a good way to go, or you can buy Dupli-Color rattle cans at the car pars store - they're also acrylic lacquer.
Too bad you've lost the option to get any help from the shipping company - but once you start working on it yourself, you're past that.
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Last edited by Pilgrim : 12-26-2012 at 11:58 AM.
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