Neck plate screw spins

bassman_al · #1 06-15-2012, 06:38 PM

I own a '94 AV Jazz. Neck plate screw has developed a spin, won't tighten. The other 3 tighten up fine and this one did until last week. Since neck plate screws need to come off periodically for finicky neck truss rod adjustments, I figured the normal toothpick-and-glue approach would be too permanent a solution. I'm guessing toothpick alone would be fine. Any ideas out there?

96tbird · #2 06-15-2012, 06:46 PM

Wood glue doesn't stick good to steel, so its not a problem. If you want, just rub some candle wax on the screw first to help it release smoothly.

Rocky McDougall · #3 06-16-2012, 09:42 AM

Tooth picks should work, I might use Krazy glue instead of wood glue. Make sure the glue goes all the way down to the bottom of the hole. Move toothpick up and down to pump the glue all the way down, then put several toothpick in the hole to fill it completely. Let it dry a couple of hours before replacing the neck and wax the screw threads as mentioned above.
Rocky

mongo2 · #4 06-16-2012, 10:01 AM

I prefer to glue a dowel in the neck hole.

96tbird · #5 06-16-2012, 10:13 AM

Krazy glue huh? I have no doubt it has worked for you but it requires a re-drill, an extra step and just in case our esteemed inquisitor is not handy....

I suggest against krazy glue to fill gaps and there will be gaps; it shatters when compressed like when a screw is being driven in . Wood glue if you screw in wet will CAST new threads in the hole, eliminates drilling, only a screwdriver is required and monkeys can do it

96tbird · #6 06-16-2012, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mongo2

I prefer to glue a dowel in the neck hole.

If you're going to go that far, why not just go with a threaded insert? Dowel is redundant.

emor · #7 06-16-2012, 10:24 AM

A face grain plug will grip the screw better than a dowel.

96tbird · #8 06-16-2012, 10:27 AM

redname · #9 06-16-2012, 10:45 AM

i used wood fillers, so far no problems

mongo2 · #10 06-16-2012, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by emor

A face grain plug...

I've done many that way keeping a very hard block of maple and a plug cutter specifically for that. I also advocated for that method but I now find a dowel is much easier and just as effective.

I wouldn't recommend wood filler.

96tbird · #11 06-16-2012, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redname

i used wood fillers, so far no problems

I'm glad you've had no problems YET however wood filler is not structurally sound. It for filling voids to achieve a smooth finish and cover nail holes. In this case its like using duct tape to hang your car exhaust system.

bassman_al · #12 06-16-2012, 02:49 PM

Thanks for the ideas. I am skilled enough to assemble a bass from parts, including soldering, and I have used wood glue and toothpicks to tighten up bridge screws and strap screws. But not on my nicer basses. So before I began this fix I wanted to make sure the same method would be ok.

Roadkill · #13 06-16-2012, 02:57 PM

The two screws towards the bridge have only shear force on them so don't much matter if stripped.

walterw · #14 06-16-2012, 05:00 PM

well, you could get away with just the other two, but that makes for a fragile bass.

toothpicks and wood glue, screws cranked in while wet. there will be no problem getting the screws back out later, so don't worry about wax or anything (i wouldn't want it interfering with the glue set-up).

mongo2 · #15 06-16-2012, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96tbird

If you're going to go that far, why not just go with a threaded insert? Dowel is redundant.

I've done that several times. Dowel is way easier.

mongo2 · #16 06-16-2012, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by walterw

toothpicks and wood glue, screws cranked in while wet. there will be no problem getting the screws back out later, so don't worry about wax or anything (i wouldn't want it interfering with the glue set-up).

Yeah, just don't use any kind of superglue. I had one guy come to me after he did that and screwed the neck screws in and couldn't get them out. He had stripped one head trying (ezout time). I had to use my massive 75W soldering iron on the screw heads to heat each one of the screws to break them free.

pacojas · #17 06-16-2012, 06:10 PM

why do people take the neck off to adjust the TR?!!

it's much easier and more precise to simply remove the pick-guard to make adjustments! who cares if you scratch the wood. the PG will cover it.

Roadkill · #18 06-16-2012, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pacojas

why do people take the neck off to adjust the TR?!!

it's much easier and more precise to simply remove the pick-guard to make adjustments! who cares if you scratch the wood. the PG will cover it.

I route out my pickguards so I can get to the adjustment without removing it. I play very low actions and need to be able to touch up the truss rod as needed, even at gigs sometimes.

walterw · #19 06-17-2012, 01:47 AM

+1 to that!

my bass is an american standard P, so it already comes with a cutout just for that.

i modded my vintage reissue tele the same way, so i could tuck a wrench in there without taking off the neck at all.

bassman_al · #20 06-17-2012, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pacojas

why do people take the neck off to adjust the TR?!!

it's much easier and more precise to simply remove the pick-guard to make adjustments! who cares if you scratch the wood. the PG will cover it.

I would love it if I could adjust it like I do my P-bass, with the hex truss rod tool. But the AV model uses the old model nut which is much easier to strip. I filed a notch in the PG but it still is a tough angle. This is way too nice a bass to scratch up the finish. I do care about the finish under the pick guard since a future owner may want to play without the guard, if they like that Jaco look. Although I imagine I'll be buried with this bass.

As far as easier, 4 neck plate screws is less than 10 pick guard screws. Less precise? Not sure what you mean. An eighth of a turn is the same with the neck on or off.