Neck for a Squier MB-5?

Mutant Corn · #1 10-03-2008, 10:31 PM

The neck on my MB-5 is bowed, to the point where the truss rod can't fix it. As far as I know the best fix is a new neck, but I don't know what necks will fit the thing.

It's a 4-bolt, 22 fret overhang neck...complete specs in the link below if they are needed. As far as I know this has exactly the same dimensions as the old Fender MB-5, but I haven't been able to find much info on either one...

http://www.zzounds.com/item--SQU328005

edit: Maybe I could look for a used one from the same type of bass? I looked a while back and didn't see any. "Squier MB-5" returns exactly zero results on ebay. Also I've realized that a Fender style headstock would look really bad on this...that puts a damper on things

edit again: I found a whole Fender MB-5 on ebay, and it appears the neck is different at the heel...the Squier has no neck plate, and is rounded. It looks the same as the Ibanez GSR series.

XylemBassGuitar · #2 10-04-2008, 09:00 AM

I'm not sure about a replacement neck Mutant Corn, but you could try a couple of things to improve the function of the truss rod on your existing neck.

Also, just to make sure, the bow you'r describing is relief/upbow and not backbow, correct? If the neck is overly backbowed (bowed towards the back of the bass), the truss rod may not be the problem.

Anyway, assuming it is relief/upbow here are a few things you can try. You don't necessarily have to try numbers 2 and 3, but using all of these suggestions at once will help the most.

1) Take off the adjustment nut (if it's removable that is), clean and oil the threads (3 in one oil works well). Put the nut back on to where you started.

2) Put an extra washer under the adjustment nut (again, only if the nut is removable), this will give the rod a little more way to go before maxing out.

3) Change out your strings to a much lighter gauge. This will put less pull on the neck and thus the truss rod will have to do less work.

4) Press some or all of the bow out of the neck with your hand while tightening the truss rod. This will help take some of the tension off of the rod and can help it to do its job much easier.

Give those a try and see what happens. Remember to never over-tighten the rod.

Mutant Corn · #3 10-04-2008, 11:31 AM

Yeah it's upbow. AFAIK the nut isn't removable, and I have .045-.100D'Addario half-founds on it, with a standard .130 nickel round for the B. Will .005 make that much of a difference?

I'll definitely try #4 as right now the truss rod is as tight as I dare to tighten it...

Thanks or the help man

Mutant Corn · #4 10-04-2008, 10:14 PM

Ok, so I did #4 with my leg resting its full weight on the neck and my arm holding the body down, with my other leg as a fulcrum, and tightened as far as I dared. I also lowered the bridge as far as it will go, and am still measuring 1/4" between the B string and the fretboard.

I looked closer and discovered that the Warmoth 13 degree angled neck has the truss rod adjustment point at the headstock end, and has 22 frets. If someone could verify that it is an overhang neck, I might give it a try...how would this look with a maple FB? (My pups have pole pieces...I think that makes a difference here)

link to pic

XylemBassGuitar · #5 10-05-2008, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mutant Corn

Ok, so I did #4 with my leg resting its full weight on the neck and my arm holding the body down, with my other leg as a fulcrum, and tightened as far as I dared. I also lowered the bridge as far as it will go, and am still measuring 1/4" between the B string and the fretboard.

Ouch. Sorry I couldn't be more help here Mutant. Good luck finding a replacement though.