NEDD HELP with tilted bass bridge

Lazerrus · #1 12-31-2010, 07:48 AM

Hello everyone. I am new here and am looking for some advice on this bass bridge. If you look closely at the pic you see that it is somewhat tilted or unaligned with the pickups. Can this be fixed/adjusted without any major work. The bass plays and sounds fine but it really bothers me visually.

Pilgrim · #2 12-31-2010, 09:24 AM

I know this would bother me too, but to "fix" it would reguire removing the bridge, plugging the screw holes with glued-in dowels, cutting off the dowels to get a level surface, then re-drilling the holes just a few MM from the original ones and re-mounting the bridge. You can't drill new holes that close to existing holes left open - the screw holes have to be filled with good quality, solid wood.

If the intonation can be adjusted OK, my advice is to leave it alone.

danomite64 · #3 12-31-2010, 10:04 AM

That would drive me crazy. I'd have to fix it. The 3rd knob also would drive me crazy.

T-Bird · #4 12-31-2010, 10:12 AM

Hi.

Welcome to TalkBass Lazerrus.

What Pilgrim said is spot on. What You want is doable, but it's quite a bit of work. Especially if clean looks is one of the requirements

.

Regards
Sam

Lazerrus · #5 12-31-2010, 10:25 AM

Thanks guys. The third knob is actually designed to be offset. I googled many photos of this model and they all have the offset 3rd knob. I have also seen other photos of this model with a tilted bridge. Also I have seen many photos of it with the bridge straight. Is this just rushed poor craftsmanship or is it supposed to be like this?

ClydeMcAllister · #6 12-31-2010, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pilgrim

I know this would bother me too, but to "fix" it would reguire removing the bridge, plugging the screw holes with glued-in dowels, cutting off the dowels to get a level surface, then re-drilling the holes just a few MM from the original ones and re-mounting the bridge. You can't drill new holes that close to existing holes left open - the screw holes have to be filled with good quality, solid wood.

If the intonation can be adjusted OK, my advice is to leave it alone.

I have this exact same problem on one of my Squiers. I tried to fix it a few days ago, but when I put the strings back on the tension pulled the bridge back to where it was originally. I guess the wood I used for the dowels wasn't solid enough. I'm just going to leave it like it is for now, since it doesn't really seem to affect the intonation or anything besides looks.

Thunderitter · #7 12-31-2010, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lazerrus

Thanks guys. The third knob is actually designed to be offset. I googled many photos of this model and they all have the offset 3rd knob. I have also seen other photos of this model with a tilted bridge. Also I have seen many photos of it with the bridge straight. Is this just rushed poor craftsmanship or is it supposed to be like this?

Poor build IMHO.

Do you have a better picture of where the saddles are positioned?

DerHoggz · #8 12-31-2010, 11:01 AM

Probably bad QC at the factory, BC Rich has been pretty bad in that regard lately.

Lazerrus · #9 12-31-2010, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thunderitter

Poor build IMHO.

Do you have a better picture of where the saddles are positioned?

Thanks Thunderitter that's what I figured. I don't have the bass here with me at the moment but I do know it intonates well as is but everytime I look at the damn thing my eyes go right to it

Being a BC Rich the visual aspect of this bass is important. It's like looking at Pamela Anderson with a black eye

Thunderitter · #10 12-31-2010, 11:21 AM

What I'm thinking is that if your saddle are half way down the bridge, it would be possible to move it and re-drill without getting close to the previous holes. If they are near the neck end of the bridge then a plug and re-drill as per Pilgrim's note is what you'd have to do. If you are able to move the bridge rearwards, the only issue you might have is in the future if you go to a lighter gauge of string and you're saddles may run out of travel.

Lazerrus · #11 12-31-2010, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thunderitter

What I'm thinking is that if your saddle are half way down the bridge, it would be possible to move it and re-drill without getting close to the previous holes. If they are near the neck end of the bridge then a plug and re-drill as per Pilgrim's note is what you'd have to do. If you are able to move the bridge rearwards, the only issue you might have is in the future if you go to a lighter gauge of string and you're saddles may run out of travel.

Noted. Thanks I'll check.

Pilgrim · #12 12-31-2010, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thunderitter

What I'm thinking is that if your saddle are half way down the bridge, it would be possible to move it and re-drill without getting close to the previous holes. If they are near the neck end of the bridge then a plug and re-drill as per Pilgrim's note is what you'd have to do. If you are able to move the bridge rearwards, the only issue you might have is in the future if you go to a lighter gauge of string and you're saddles may run out of travel.

Good point - I hadn't thought of that. Just follow the old rule of measuring twice before cutting (or drilling) once. In this case, measure 4 or 5 times.

I'm pretty sure I'd want at least 1/4" of good, solid wood between the new screw holes and the old ones.

Lazerrus · #13 12-31-2010, 12:41 PM

Also noted Pilgram. Thank you sir.

bolophonic · #14 12-31-2010, 02:18 PM

There is no question that I would fix that on my bass. Make sure you get the new holes centered or you run the risk of pulling it out of alignment with the screws.

Lazerrus · #15 01-07-2011, 06:37 PM

Well guys thanks for the advice. It worked. She's perfect now. Thanks!

Pilgrim · #16 01-07-2011, 09:31 PM

Nice! Did you have to plug holes or just re-locate the bridge?

Lazerrus · #17 01-08-2011, 05:44 AM

I opted for the hole plugging and redrilling. I let sit for three days before restringing.