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03-26-2011, 06:22 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: San Diego | | | Need to drill hole for 1/4" jack with jack plate
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I have to drill a hole through the body for the output jack so I can plug in at the bottom. what is the best way to drill this? drill bit to use? The jack measures 3/4" across so the hole is going to be pretty big. I don't wanna screw up and crack the wood around the hole. I guess the paint around the hole doesn't matter because it will be covered by the jack plate. | 
03-26-2011, 11:31 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Finland (Northern Europe) | | | Hi.
The best way IME is to use a forstner bit on a bench drill and to have the body clamped firmly on the bench.
I did mine in a milling machine and no problems.
You may be able to do that free-hand, but I'll strongly advice against that.
Regards
Sam | 
03-27-2011, 11:55 AM
|  | Endorsing Artist: Wild Turkey Bourbon | | Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: The Wilds of NW Pa. | | Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Bird Hi.
The best way IME is to use a forstner bit on a bench drill and to have the body clamped firmly on the bench.
I did mine in a milling machine and no problems.
You may be able to do that free-hand, but I'll strongly advice against that.
Regards
Sam | Yep. free-handing a 7/8" hole is risky at best.
__________________ Carpe Mammatas | 
03-27-2011, 01:03 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | | I agree...not a freehand job. To do it with confidence that the body will be intact afterward requires careful work and a clamped/secure body.
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03-27-2011, 01:46 PM
|  | Less barking, more wagging! | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: San Diego, CA | | | Start by masking the area to be drilled and marking the hole's center point carefully with a center punch, then drill an appropriately-sized pilot hole, followed by a Forstner or brad-point bit.
I've drilled those kinds of holes successfully with a hand drill after securely clamping the bass to the work bench, but it takes the right tools, and a modicum of experience. A helper can let you know if you're not drilling at the correct angle.
Believe it or not, the tools I prefer for holes that aren't easily drilled at the drill press are an old fashioned brace & bit - slow and controllable.
If you lack the tools or experience, find someone who has both and let them drill the hole for you.
Last edited by Jazzdogg : 03-27-2011 at 02:00 PM.
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03-27-2011, 03:22 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | | ^^ Wise words.
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03-27-2011, 04:08 PM
|  | GOLD Supporting Member | | Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Cape Cod, MA | | | No question that the best way is a drill press and Fortner bit, with the body in a clamped fixture. But it is possible to do it well with hand held tools, maybe clamping the body to the bench or in an end vise, by using a pilot block securely clamped and centered. The hole through the pilot block should be long enough to guide the Forstner bit, and be made out of something hard, like maple. I have done thousands of baluster and newel post installations over the last forty years in this manner with no problems (well, maybe the occasional little problem :-). If these are all the tools available to you, be careful, take your time, and you can get it done. The obvious thing here is a good sharp bit makes all the difference! Good luck with your project... | 
03-29-2011, 04:40 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: San Diego | | I don't have any clamps so I had to wing it with a hand drill. I was so paranoid about cracking the wood I started out with a 1/8" bit and worked my way up to a 1/2". then used a a 5/8" rotary rasp to gradually grind the hole out to 3/4". It was time consuming but better to be safe than sorry. the results are great, no paint chipping and the inside of the hole is smooth.  | 
03-29-2011, 05:03 PM
|  | GOLD Supporting Member | | Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Cape Cod, MA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by BassLife77 I don't have any clamps so I had to wing it with a hand drill. I was so paranoid about cracking the wood I started out with a 1/8" bit and worked my way up to a 1/2". then used a a 5/8" rotary rasp to gradually grind the hole out to 3/4". It was time consuming but better to be safe than sorry. the results are great, no paint chipping and the inside of the hole is smooth.  | Where there is a will there is a way! Good for you! | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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