Need help getting the buzz out of my MM Stingray

[Balkan]

Ok - So I've started setting up my bass on my own, relying primarily on some of the online guides. I've done ok, but I think a further adjustment is in order to get rid of a little buzz and am not sure how to figure out what needs to be done.

Here's where things stand: My Stingray was getting kind of bowed, probably having something to do with the winter, heater in my apt, whatever. I gave the truss rod a nice little turn, and it all feels just right - I haven't measured the action or anything but it seems nice and low without being too low.

Intonation came out perfect. Don't know how that happens, but it always seems to with this bass!

I get a little buzz though.

Most of the buzz doesn't come through the amp, some if it's in a loose tuner, and some of seems to be up in the frets but doesn't reach the pickup. I think that's normal with low action, right?

However, the amp does reflect a little buzz in a few isolated frets, mostly 4 - 6 on the G string. There's no buzz if I play super soft, but it kicks in if I play normally. My question now is how do I figure out what the problem is. I see a few options for further adjustment:

1. move the truss rod back a smidge, raising the action a little bit across the board.
2. play with the height of the G string.
3. decide that there is a problem with the frets and take the bass into the shop.

I really want to be able to do all this stuff myself, but it's these kinds of choices that make my head spin. Any advice? Many thanks in advance!

[dbcandle]

Personally, for measuring neck relief and string height, I like to use a small rule with 64ths/inch markings.

Since you seem to be wondering about the relationship between different factors, you may care to check the links on the "sticky" thread at the top of this forum, entitled: "ALL TRUSSROD AND ACTION QUESTIONS ANSWERED HERE".

I too have recently been getting much more into my own setups, and the reading in that sticky is great (there are 4 links in the first posting) there. Even on the "el cheapo" basses I have, I'm very careful to not break anything, and consider a little reading a small investment. The Sadowsky link on the "sticky" is a good one to be sure and read; it gives precise measurements regarding "high", "medium" and "low" action (string-height).

If you measure neck relief and string-height very precisely, you'll be in a better position to evaluate other factors such as the fretwork. You should do neck-relief before string-height, BTW.

[Balkan]

Good deal, I'll check it out Also need to invest in a good ruler. Any recs: the one's I have are regular old school-type rulers and are not precise enough, especially when I am putting the edge against the fretboard.

[Balkan]

Incidentally, I've actually used that link before (or an older version of it). The Gary Willis site was helpful, but the thing I was never comfortable doing was lowering all the string to figure out the buzz - seems to drastic and I'm worried I won't get the strings back up to the right height. So in the past, I've ended up just loosening the neck until the buzz goes away. I can get decent action that way, but I've always wondered whether that leaves it higher than need be. Perhaps with better measuring I can avoid lowering the strings.

[dbcandle]

As for the ruler, just use common sense. Anything small that can measure the precise distance between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string will do. I just use a small metal ruler I got from Radio Shack, with 64/inch increments. For neck relief, easily measured with a capo on the first fret and pressing down on the last fret, you should have a gap at the 8th fret of approximately 2 business-cards as a starting-point (as measured by your lowest string). Personally, I tend to eyeball the relief setting, but carefully measure string-height with the ruler.

As for string-height, you should not worry about damaging the saddle (bridge) adjustments affecting string-height as long as you use the proper tool and don't strip anything. I personally loosen the string a bit before raising a saddle, but not before lowering. I'm quite paranoid about breaking anything, but it is the truss-rod, not the saddles that scare me.

I would say that using the truss-rod to adjust string-height is major bad mojo! While a side-effect of adjusting the truss-rod is indeed string-height, that is secondary. The truss-rod is to adjust *relief*, and should *only* be used for that. The truss-rod (especially the nut) is rather finicky, and easy to damage if you a) use a poorly fitting tool, b) adjust the truss-rod with strings at full tension or c) tighten the nut/rod too much.

After setting the relief in the neck, you then adjust the saddles to set the string-height where you like (or until buzzing starts). If you get buzzing consistently across strings at the high frets (but not low), you need less relief: straighter neck. If you get buzzing consistently at the low frets (but not the high), you need more relief: more bow. If you get buzzing consistently across all strings, your string-height is too low (saddles, not truss-rod!). As you attempt to eek-out that last 64/inch of action, you'll have a bit of back-and-forth between the truss-rod and saddle adjustments, but always start by adjusting the truss-rod (only for relief).

Finally, if like most folks you listen for buzz without your amp, you'll probably be plucking harder than you would when amplified. That means you'll year buzzing during your setup that isn't really a problem.

[Balkan]

Thanks! About the truss rod, here's what the official FAQ on the MusicMan website says:

Q: Could you tell me Music Man's StingRay factory settings for relief, string height, and pickup height?

A: Virtually all the adjustments to string height can be made with the truss rod. Turn clockwise to raise the finger board, counter clockwise to lower. The ideal string height for our basses is 3/32" or 2.4mm between the bottom of the string to the top of the fret on both the E and G strings at the 12th fret. The G string can be slightly lower due to the fact that it is the smallest string. This affects the bow of the neck.
The factory specifications for the pickup height is 6/32" or 4.76mm from the top of the plastic between the pickup covers to the bottom of the G string. The angle of the pickup is set fairly level, so the larger strings are naturally a bit closer. If you haven't already adjusted the pickup or changed to a very heavy gauge string set, you shouldn't have to do any adjustments on the pickup.
On the new 2-pickup basses, the measurements are virtually the same on the bridge pickup and the neck pickup is further away, about 8/32" or 6.35mm from the string to the pickup.

[dbcandle]

I'm certainly not going to second-guess a FAQ on your manufacturer's site. My comments above are consistent with my own experience (Fender & Ibanez), and extensive reading on the subject, but I'd encourage you to consider the a manufacturer FAQ over the advice of a stranger (me)!

Still, I can't help but wonder. It would be good if others with EBMM experience could chime-in.

[Balkan]

I'm totally with you - the FAQ makes me curious too. If no one chimes in, maybe I'll just start a new thread!

[BillyRay]

Relief is set by the trussrod adjustment. String height by the saddles. The FAQ says to set action by adjusting the trussrod probably so that newbs don't get stuck with an unplayable bass due to awkward saddle and/or pickup adjustment and then proceed to hassle them about their (easily solved) problem. It's way harder to mess things up completly by adjusting the trussrod because all the strings move the same distance and the saddle still are set for optimal playing (the factory setup probably takes into consideration fretboard curvature). Also, the saddles might be pretty low stock.

All the shop techs I've met only use the truss rod as a way to get more or less neck relief.