Need New Nut for BTB 6-string

knappymer · #1 02-22-2011, 01:09 AM

So I bought a used BTB 6-string.

Just changed the strings tonight and I am getting one hell of a buzz at the first fret on the E-string. I took a closer look, and the previous E that came off was in fact a thicker gauge than that of the one I put on and the E-string slot appears to be widened out. I know it's at the nut because when I fret at the first it goes away, and it was never there before I changed the strings...

The dilemma I'm having: Ibanez states that the width at the nut is 2.12", but the only 6-string replacement I can find (Carvin, Graphtec, Allparts, etc.) are all only 2.03". Do any of you more experienced guys think this will be a problem if I drop a nut that size in? Or should I just bite the bullet and have a luthier or tech make one for me?

As always, any of your time is greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

TomA1234 · #2 02-22-2011, 02:10 AM

well, if you can't find a pre slotted nut the correct size then I would get a luthier to make one for you unless you have the tools required. It shouldn't be too expensive to get a new one.

JLS · #3 02-22-2011, 10:40 AM

Which will never, ever work, as a drop-in replacement. There will always be nut slot adjustments necessary.

The specs show an .009 difference between these nuts, like the high E of an extra-light guitar set.

For that matter, are you sure you need a new nut? Have you made sure there's enough windings on the tuner post?

knappymer · #4 02-22-2011, 12:46 PM

I'm pretty sure there are enough windings on the tuner post. I normally go by the 3-4" rule for Ibanez tuner posts when the string needs to be cut (where you measure the string length after the post then cut the string).

The fact that the previous E-string was fairly thicker and I can see where the nut was filed is kind of a dead giveaway.

I think I can get one made to spec for me with little trouble or maybe just try to contact Ibanez myself.

ixlramp · #5 02-22-2011, 02:04 PM

I'm guessing whoever filed the nut slot wider did a bad job and didn't maintain the curve of the slot floor. As long as the slot floor maintains it's curve it will centre any gauge of string and using a string thinner than the slot width is not a problem.

knappymer · #6 02-22-2011, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ixlramp

I'm guessing whoever filed the nut slot wider did a bad job and didn't maintain the curve of the slot floor. As long as the slot floor maintains it's curve it will centre any gauge of string and using a string thinner than the slot width is not a problem.

Correct. I can see where the bottom curve was filed down too far. I will try to take that string off and see if there is any other evidence, but for the mean-time I'm gonna call a luthier friend and see if he can advise me or make me a new nut to spec. He has experience with Hoshino corp. - Ibanez in particular. I was just hoping to solve it myself.

Thanks guys.

Turnaround · #7 02-22-2011, 04:06 PM

Why not just shim the existing nut? Won't take much of a shim and you may just get by without having to recut any nut slots.

LilloEsquilo · #8 02-22-2011, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turnaround

Why not just shim the existing nut? Won't take much of a shim and you may just get by without having to recut any nut slots.

Personally I see that as a "hack" job. You end up with the other 5 strings being slightly higher that way. It's probably ok, but the ideal fix is a new nut.
Nuts are cheap, and it's pretty easy to make a new one, personally I'd just take that route. Granted it's tedious, but the results are worth it.

Turnaround · #9 02-22-2011, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LilloEsquilo

Personally I see that as a "hack" job. You end up with the other 5 strings being slightly higher that way. It's probably ok, but the ideal fix is a new nut.
Nuts are cheap, and it's pretty easy to make a new one, personally I'd just take that route. Granted it's tedious, but the results are worth it.

I said you MAY just get by, not you WILL get by. And if you can file a new nut, you can re-slot a shimmed one. There's no disadvantage to a proper shim.

JLS · #10 02-22-2011, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turnaround

I said you MAY just get by, not you WILL get by. And if you can file a new nut, you can re-slot a shimmed one. There's no disadvantage to a proper shim.

I agree. Shimming the nut, and touching up the slots, is a legitimate fix.

LilloEsquilo · #11 02-22-2011, 08:28 PM

The thing is, you gotta pull the nut to shim it, and if you gotta pull it, file and glue, I guess personally I'd rather have a new unworn nut since they are pretty cheap. Plus I don't really like the idea of a shim, I want the nut itself contacting the wood, without a barrier. But I'm probably too much of a perfectionist, it's just how I roll, to each their own I guess.

SeaBassSteve · #12 02-23-2011, 04:05 AM

I had the same problem on my 5 String yamaha....
4 months they said for it to come from a factory (replacement)
Had to get a luthier to do it for me, however just recieved an email saying he'd managed to break the G string in the process. I am a wee bit worried!

LilloEsquilo · #13 02-23-2011, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SeaBassSteve

I had the same problem on my 5 String yamaha....
4 months they said for it to come from a factory (replacement)
Had to get a luthier to do it for me, however just recieved an email saying he'd managed to break the G string in the process. I am a wee bit worried!

I wouldn't worry too much if he just broke the G string. Breaking the nut, that would worry me given it takes 4 months to get another.

You'd think if worse came to worse he would be able to just make you a new one out of most any material you like anyway.

JLS · #14 02-23-2011, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LilloEsquilo

The thing is, you gotta pull the nut to shim it, and if you gotta pull it, file and glue, I guess personally I'd rather have a new unworn nut since they are pretty cheap. Plus I don't really like the idea of a shim, I want the nut itself contacting the wood, without a barrier. But I'm probably too much of a perfectionist, it's just how I roll, to each their own I guess.

Without a "barrier", like, glue, perhaps?

I'm always glad to make a new nut for a customer, I'm paid well for it, but I'll always try for the easier, less expensive fix, first.

walterw · #15 02-23-2011, 10:44 PM

right, the nut itself is cheap, the work to get it shaped right not so much. any replacement will not just drop in.

a shim of nice thin hardwood won't hurt the tone (even theoretically).

hell, it may just be that the slot is too wide but not too deep, in which case a little expert filing could fix the problem without even shimming it.

walterw · #16 02-23-2011, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knappymer

Just changed the strings tonight and I am getting one hell of a buzz at the first fret on the E-string.

also, this is important: the BTBs are extra-long scale, and regular strings might be too short for it.

if the low string drops from full thickness to an inner (skinnier) layer before it reaches the nut, it will buzz just like you're describing.

JLS · #17 02-24-2011, 11:51 AM

"right, the nut itself is cheap, the work to get it shaped right not so much. any replacement will not just drop in."

^^^
This here's gospel!

Anyone who thinks that nutwork is overpriced--feel free, to try it.
Oh, you'd like to borrow my tools, now?

knappymer · #18 02-24-2011, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by walterw

also, this is important: the BTBs are extra-long scale, and regular strings might be too short for it.

if the low string drops from full thickness to an inner (skinnier) layer before it reaches the nut, it will buzz just like you're describing.

That was the first thing I checked. It does taper but the DR Hi-Beams I put on are for long scale basses. It sucks too beacuse after I put them on, all i could say was "dang, that looks good with those steelies on there." Too bad now I probably have to go get a whole new set from being stretched then taken off again, once the new nut is in.

LilloEsquilo · #19 02-24-2011, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLS

Without a "barrier", like, glue, perhaps?

I'm always glad to make a new nut for a customer, I'm paid well for it, but I'll always try for the easier, less expensive fix, first.

The glue is a given in any situation. But logically anything you insert there is going to change things. Whether that change is bad, I guess just depends on the change itself. Maybe, maybe not.

Not sure what your hourly rate is, but I know from experience that filing nuts doesn't take THAT long even taking your time. I just would only do it if the guy really couldn't afford a proper fix, otherwise, why do it halfway it's still work to pull the nut shim and slot the other slots anyway a bit. That's my point. Maybe in your case your idea is what he needs. I just would prefer to do it the right way if possible.

LilloEsquilo · #20 02-24-2011, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knappymer

That was the first thing I checked. It does taper but the DR Hi-Beams I put on are for long scale basses. It sucks too beacuse after I put them on, all i could say was "dang, that looks good with those steelies on there." Too bad now I probably have to go get a whole new set from being stretched then taken off again, once the new nut is in.

If you have the right scale strings, I'm not sure why you'd need to replace them after a new nut goes in? Am I missing something? I thought you were going to shim anyway? Or am I losing it? That's possible believe me.