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  #1  
Old 02-19-2006, 09:14 PM
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New strings - setup gone off!

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Hi everyone,

I put new strings on my Cort 3535, and now the action is so low that the strings just rattle, I can't even get a note out! I'm pretty sure the nut and bridge are fine, so I guess it's the truss rod.

Has anyone ever seen a cort truss rod before? My one isn't a normal pentagonal allen key one, it's got a circular hole and a slit at the bottom/side - looks like I need a special key of some sort to turn it. Any ideas on where I can find out more, or should I just take it into my local shop and let them set it up (it can be their problem then!).

thanks guys
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  #2  
Old 02-19-2006, 09:28 PM
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If in doubt.......bring it to a pro.

If you know or not.....When you change string guages/tensions...ect. It will most likely need some tweaking afterwards.
  #3  
Old 02-22-2006, 04:09 PM
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Do you take all of your strings off at once or one at a time?
If you take them off all at once the neck will bend backward from sudden lack of string tension, thus causing your action to be nonexistant. So remember kids, change your strings one at a time!

4
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  #4  
Old 02-22-2006, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StringsOf4
Do you take all of your strings off at once or one at a time?
If you take them off all at once the neck will bend backward from sudden lack of string tension, thus causing your action to be nonexistant. So remember kids, change your strings one at a time!
Necks are elastic, and the backbow when you remove the strings is temporary. In my experience, the neck should spring back to normal shape when string tension is applied again.

I have never had a problem like StringsOf4 describes, and I've removed all the strings from every one of my 4, 5, 6, and 7 string basses at one time or another over 30+ years.

I won't say it's impossible... but IME, extremely unlikely.

My guess is the original poster switched to a lighter gauge, and just needs to back off the truss rod a little.
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  #5  
Old 02-22-2006, 05:10 PM
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Yeah, it really depends on the bass. My experience is with a fender P. But a 5 or 6 stringer may have a neckwood denser than maple or even other fenders may not do it. Again, depends on the bass, sorry for any confusion.

4
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  #6  
Old 02-22-2006, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StringsOf4
Do you take all of your strings off at once or one at a time?
If you take them off all at once the neck will bend backward from sudden lack of string tension, thus causing your action to be nonexistant. So remember kids, change your strings one at a time!
4
That's the musical version of an urban myth. No matter how logical it seems, it's not true.
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  #7  
Old 02-22-2006, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonote
That's the musical version of an urban myth. No matter how logical it seems, it's not true.
I don't know the reason behind it but this happens when I take all of the strings off of my six string.
I've never had a problem with my G&L.
It may go unoticed on some basses with high enough action.
You can't go wrong with one string at a time. It helps to have the other strings as a reference when you bring the new string up to pitch.
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  #8  
Old 02-22-2006, 07:32 PM
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I've always changed all the strings at the same time and haven't had a problem in over 40 years. This gives me a chance to clean the fingerboard. When changing to strings with different tension a truss rod tweak is usually needed, but it's minor.

I don't know what's going on with that Cort. I can't tell from the description of the truss rod nut, but I doubt it would be some radical design. Best to take it to a tech and pick up a truss rod tool at the same time.
  #9  
Old 02-22-2006, 08:00 PM
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simpy1, you didn't mention if you replaced the strings with the same brand and gauge. If you changed either (especially the gauge), this is probably the problem.
Even different brands of strings at the same gauge can have very different tensions to reach a particular tune, and any change in tension, changes the neck tension, requiring a truss rod adjustment.
If you went to a lighter gauge, you'll be surprised at just how much you have to back off the truss to get the proper relief.
I had to make 3 truss adjustments this week with the same strings due to temp and humidity changes.

So.. find out what tool you need to work your truss nut, and back off on it about 1/2 turn for starters. Tune up just a touch sharp. This helps pull the neck a bit faster. Later, tune to normal pitch.. Test.. Action still too low, too little relief, strings buzzing? Back off on the truss a bit more... Test..
Sure, you can take it to a tech, but get ready to be taking it back on a regular basis because truss adjustments are adjustments that will be needed occasionally.

Changing all the strings at one time can have an effect on your neck's relief, but it depends alot on how long you have the neck sitting that way without tension. It's always going to be most noticeable when you have a really good and low setup. That's when you'll notice that it does take the neck a bit of time to pull back into shape...

Good luck..

Mag...
  #10  
Old 02-22-2006, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thehurlatron
...
When you change string guages/tensions...ect. It will most likely need some tweaking afterwards.
I used to use really low tention BEAD tuning with (can't remember)-125s (bottom 4 of a 5 set). Then I decided to re-tune to EADG again, but I picked up 50-105s. Pretty much, I had the opposite problem to you. You could acctually see the neck bow from a few feet away!

Anyway, I suggest that you loosen the truss-rod to allow the neck to bend towards the strings a little. But do the loosening a little (1/8th of a turn) at a time, and let the neck settle in for a day after each adjustment.
  #11  
Old 02-22-2006, 09:37 PM
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I take all my strings off only when I do an oil job. If you put them back on within an hour you shouldn't have a problem.
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