New Thumb bolt-on 5 trussrod problem! Please help!

[danny17]

Hi!


I write because I'm really frustrated. Let me tell you my story:

I bought a new 2006 Warwick Thumb Bolt-on 5 two weeks ago from my local guitar center. It had a considerable bow in the neck, so I started adjusting the trussrod according to the warwick manual. 1/8 turn clockwise at first, waited for about an hour. It straightened a little. I did the same procedure 2 more times in the next 4 hours.

The next day the neck was better, but still a little bowed for my like, so I adjusted the trussrod a litte more (about 1/4 turn in some hours). I always had some resistance from the rod, and the usual cracking noise some times, but the neck did not straighten any more. Always checked it with a chromatic tuner. Then I tried releasing string tension, adjusting 1/8 turn more, and waited for about 8 hours, re-tuned, and nothing happend.

I started to think the trussrod was damaged, so I stopped adjusting, and started releasing it to see if bow came back. With the first 1/8 turns conuterclockwise, again nothing happed. After about half a turn back in several steps between an hour, the bow started to come back. So I thought the rod was ok.

Since I didn't want to make anything wrong, and wanted to let the neck settle on, I started again adjusting about only 1/8 turn a day. The neck straigthened again to the same point I reached first time, but not any more. I still have a bit more than 0.5mm of distance between fret and string because of the bow when fretting the B string at 1st fret and 12th fret (according to warwick manual AND to my taste, more than 0.5mm of distance in this check means the need should be more straight). Any further adjustment of the trussrod above this has no effect at all.

The bass is playable, but I think something is wrong with it, and considering I had to make a VERY BIG effort to buy it, I'm really frustrated with this situation.

I've owned about 15 basses, from 100u$s to 1500u$s, and never had a single problem doing this adjustments.

Even had a corvette with wenge neck and the rod worked perfectly. At first I thought the big ovangkol neck needed more time to settle in cause of the dense wook, but I'm starting to think something is wrong with my bass.

Can you give me any advice? Should I appeal to the warranty?

Thanks a lot for your help!!

Daniel.

[ihixulu]

Make sure you are helping the neck get straight by applying back pressure as you are tightening the rod. I saw a video of Dan Ehrlewine (sp?) doing it and Gary Willis does the same. It seems to work with the most stubborn necks.

Basically, loosen the truss rod, a lot. Then, bend the neck back to eliminate the bow. Tighten the truss rod until it's tight but don't go crazy on it. Your neck will be pretty straight after that unless there is something truly wrong.

Go to the Gary Willis site and look for the setup instructions for a more coherent description of the technique.

[danny17]

Thanks for your reply ihixulu!

I tried what you said, directly removing the strings. I loosened the trussrod a lot, which made me realize that the thing is not broken and is probably doing it's job right. When loosened, the rod turned very smooth, and the bow came back, without strings, so what I think now is that the neck is naturally bowed because of the time it passed that way in the shipping / guitar center, and will require some time to change, besides the important force the rod is applying to straighten it.
I think this because compared to the necks of my fender or musicman, it looks like I can jump over it without braking it. I mean, this neck is like a tree.

So I will wait some weeks before adjusting anymore, and then tell you what happend.
Thanks a lot!

Daniel.

[ibnzneksrul]

If you're the DIY type, this might be helpful:

http://www.bassplayer.com/story.asp?...torycode=16363

[danny17]

Originally Posted by Joshua

On the Warwick site you can find the manual, which has some excellent info on how to make this adjustment.

Hi Joshua,

Yep, you're right, but I alse have the real thing printed in paper, and although every detail for setting up the bass is explained there, no info is provided on what to do if the rod is getting evidently tight and still don't get the desired relief, which I guess is quite similar to what is specified there.

So, as I am quite sure the rod is not broken at all, and that I DON'T WANT to brake it from overadjusting, I think I will wait some weeks to see if the neck settles in to the current relief before adjusting any more (which right now has no effect in the relief other than making me think I'm going to brake the rod).

Thanks anyway!, if you come across any other ideas on this, they will be welcome!!

Danny

[kayakbass]

Don't expect any neck to back bow if the rod is tightened all the way and you still see forward bow. Sounds to me like GC let this neck go un-adjusted for too long and now it has developed "memory" in being forward bowed. Owned one of the original Fortress basses years back and had the same issue. Traced back to an aluminum truss. (not a good material for any truss rod let alone one burried inside a neck made from African hard woods!) Not sure if Warwick ever changed back to a steel rod? Have your local luthier look at the rod and the neck. Should be covered under warranty.

[danny17]

Originally Posted by kayakbass

Don't expect any neck to back bow if the rod is tightened all the way and you still see forward bow. Sounds to me like GC let this neck go un-adjusted for too long and now it has developed "memory" in being forward bowed. Owned one of the original Fortress basses years back and had the same issue. Traced back to an aluminum truss. (not a good material for any truss rod let alone one burried inside a neck made from African hard woods!) Not sure if Warwick ever changed back to a steel rod? Have your local luthier look at the rod and the neck. Should be covered under warranty.

Hi Kayakbass, what you are saying is exactly what is happening.

The trussrod in my bass is a 2 way steel rod. This means, it's fixed, can push or pull the neck, and cannot be removed.

I removed strings, and put the rod in neutral position (loose), not either pushing or pulling, and the neck has bow, not to much, but enough to produce this problem. So no doubt here, this bow is caused by developed memory in the GC.

If I adjust it without strings, I can go straight, but not back bow. I understand the reason of this, because if I try to back bow the neck myself, I have to apply a lot of force to it, which means that what you said about african hard woods is absolutly right. They are HARD. Poor trussrod having to do the job against this neck AND the strings by itself.

So... my question now is.... should I go for the warranty? or should I try to let the neck stabilize and develope memory again, but in a more straight setting? I ask this, because it's not by any means unplayable, it's just close to where it should be, the problem here is that this thing costed TOO MUCH to me.

Thanks a lot to all you guys!!!
Danny.

[202dy]

Originally Posted by danny17

Hi Kayakbass, what you are saying is exactly what is happening.

The trussrod in my bass is a 2 way steel rod. This means, it's fixed, can push or pull the neck, and cannot be removed.

I removed strings, and put the rod in neutral position (loose), not either pushing or pulling, and the neck has bow, not to much, but enough to produce this problem. So no doubt here, this bow is caused by developed memory in the GC.

If I adjust it without strings, I can go straight, but not back bow. I understand the reason of this, because if I try to back bow the neck myself, I have to apply a lot of force to it, which means that what you said about african hard woods is absolutly right. They are HARD. Poor trussrod having to do the job against this neck AND the strings by itself.

So... my question now is.... should I go for the warranty? or should I try to let the neck stabilize and develope memory again, but in a more straight setting? I ask this, because it's not by any means unplayable, it's just close to where it should be, the problem here is that this thing costed TOO MUCH to me.

Thanks a lot to all you guys!!!
Danny.

GC is not world renowned for their luthiery. Most stores have no repair staff. However, some have techs that they refer their customers to or will accept the guitar for repair at their facility for pick up.

Your neck is begining to come around. Given that there is no problem with the lumber or the construction, it will continue toward it's new set. After a day or two try to adjust it again.

A pro has ways of applying more (controlled) pressure to the neck and will adjust it straight away. GC should be willing to have the neck adjusted by one of their subcontractors free of charge.