Newbie Q For a not so newbie

p-nut95 · #1 03-19-2008, 08:58 AM

Just got my new wick' and I have crazy fret buzz. Raised up the strings but that doesnt seem to be problem...could it be the neck? Not enough relief? Too much? Which way would I turn the truss rod? Also the intonation is also horrible, anything past the 12th fret is out of tune. How would fix this?

p-nut95 · #2 03-19-2008, 09:52 AM

Bump. Some one has to have an answer

Atomik Rooster · #3 03-19-2008, 09:57 AM

If you can find a tech to set up your bass, I'd spend the money and have it done. If not... http://www.tunemybass.com/bass_setup/

mdsmith · #4 03-19-2008, 10:05 AM

Where does it sound like the buzzing is? It could also be the nut. I also had a problem with the D string buzzing due to the angle that it's pulled across the nut. Some people put an extra "string tree", or whatever you call it,on that string. As far as intonation goes, there should be some sort of screws to adjust the saddles distance from the neck. Basically you want to adjust each one until the 12th fret is the same note as the open string. Hope this helps. I would personally try to adjust it myself if I was willing to pay someone to do it. The worst the can happen is you get the intonation all out of whack, then you can pay someone to fix it. Plus it's nice to learn about your instrument, and what makes it sound the way it does. The only thing I wouldn't mess with to much is the truss rod, a little turn makes alot of difference.

p-nut95 · #5 03-19-2008, 10:06 AM

I can tell that the strings are hitting the first fret and buzzing. The action and string tension are perfect but even when I adjust the nut the strings still buzz.

jimmy rocket · #6 03-19-2008, 10:16 AM

is it only buzzing when you play above the 12th fret? Of so your truss rod needs to be tightened. If it's buzzing in the low frets 1-6 then it needs to be loosened. If it's buzzing all up and down the fret board then your neck relief is right, but you strings are too low. Work this out before you move into intonation because setting your intonation is like fine tuning in comparison with the neck relief and string height.

Once you get the buzzing taken care of, through relief and string height, then you can work on the intonation. tune them open first, and then check each one on 12, If they're flat make the string shorter by loosening the saddle (making it closer to the headstock) if sharp, make it longer by moving the saddle away from the headstock.

mdsmith · #7 03-19-2008, 10:21 AM

How are you adjusting the nut? It sounds like the grooves may be cut a little to deep.

p-nut95 · #8 03-19-2008, 10:52 AM

I am moving the nut upwards, and I am really only getting buzzing 1-6 and maybe a little more but nothing really past the 9th fret

Dogbertday · #9 03-19-2008, 10:56 AM

try tightening the truss rod... do this little by little tune the bass in between each try to make sure the neck is reacting to the right amount of tension

jimmy rocket · #10 03-19-2008, 10:57 AM

ok, then if loosening the truss rod (lefty loosey) doesn't fix the buzz, the nut may be filed too low. Heavier gauge strings might fix this, or replacing the nut and filing it down to where you want it (which is an epic pain in the butt.) I would begin with the truss rod.

JeffSki · #11 03-19-2008, 11:14 AM

http://www.warwickbass.com/manual.htm

This will get you started. Warwick put in a good section about neck/bridge setup as well as intonation.

Thunderitter · #12 03-19-2008, 11:32 AM

If you don't know what exactly what you are doing (no offense intended as most of us don't!) find your local guitar set-up shop/guy and it will be a well spent $30-50. It may be a little more if there a nut issues, etc.

202dy · #13 03-19-2008, 03:21 PM

There is no hard data in your post. It is impossible for anyone, let alone an experienced tech, to give you any advice.

You are a "newb"? Then stop what you are doing right now and read the sticky at the top of the page labeled Trussrod and Action. There are some links there. Go to Mr. Gearhead, the Fender site. Read what they have to say. (Forget GW. It will only serve to confuse the issue and you will not be able to quantify anything.) Take some measurements at the twelfth fret for string height and at the seventh fret for relief. Post the data here and someone will help you.

BTW, adjustments at the nut have little or no effect beyond the third fret. Leave the nut alone. Better yet, put it back where it was. It is not the problem.

Read.
Measure.
Post.
Learn.

JTE · #14 03-20-2008, 10:39 AM

You either need to get a real set-up or learn to do it. Nothing on a bass set-up exists in isolation. So, "The action and string tension are perfect" doesn't mean ANYTHING is set correclty.

Check the neck relief first. Fret the outer strings at the first and last fret (this gives you a handy straight-edge). There should be some slight clearance between the bottom of the string and the top of the 7th fret. I go for 1/32" to 1/34" (I think- I don't measure and haven't measured in about ten years, but go with what looks right to me).

Only after your releif is right can you start dealing with the action. Capo at the first fret and set the action how you like it (that eliminates the nut as a factor). After that, then adjust the nut for clearance at the first fret.

If the strings are buzzing when fretted at the first fret, the nut's not the problem. If they buzz ON the first fret when played open, but don't buzz when fretted at the first fret, the nut's too low.

Get Dan Erlewine's book "Complete Guitar Repair" and read through the set-up sections. He goes into detail about trade-offs and evaluting an instrument. Straight neck vs. some releif is one thing that's pretty subjective. So get the book and read through it- no tools in your hands and your bass safely in its case. Then read through it again with our bass in your hands and see what he's talking about. Then start working.

This will take some time but the investment of time and energy will be highly repaid.

jte