Newbie questions

[bobwhite]

I was planning to follow Fender's instructions in setting up my new 5 string Jazz bass (and in the past, I've always had this professionally done and have never learned how), and as a result had a few newbie questions:

1) First String: When Fender refers to the "first" string, are we going thinnest to thickest, like on a guitar? (i.e., the G-string would be the first string, the D-string the second string, on down to the B-string on the fiver, which would be the fifth string.)

2) Neck Radius: what does this mean? Exactly how is a neck radius measured? I have assumed this is the radius of a circle formed by extending the cross-section of the neck (i.e. a circle running perpendicular to the fretboard because the neck's cross section is slighly arched), but is this correct?

Thanks for the help.

[bobwhite]

Got the radius answer. Now, am I correct in my understanding of what Fender calls the 1st string, 2d string, etc.?

[251]

Originally Posted by bobwhite

I was planning to follow Fender's instructions in setting up my new 5 string Jazz bass (and in the past, I've always had this professionally done and have never learned how), and as a result had a few newbie questions:

1) First String: When Fender refers to the "first" string, are we going thinnest to thickest, like on a guitar? (i.e., the G-string would be the first string, the D-string the second string, on down to the B-string on the fiver, which would be the fifth string.)

2) Neck Radius: what does this mean? Exactly how is a neck radius measured? I have assumed this is the radius of a circle formed by extending the cross-section of the neck (i.e. a circle running perpendicular to the fretboard because the neck's cross section is slighly arched), but is this correct?

Thanks for the help.

I assume you're asking about the intonation instructions? If so I would start with the A string since it is in the center of the fret board. Then move the saddles toward the neck for the D & G, towards the bridge for the E & B using the string thickness guidelines given. This roughs out the saddle positions & saves some time if the bass has never been intonated before. Even changing string gauge, I find the existing intonation is close enough to work with a chromatic tuner to get intonation very close. Your results may vary.

FWIW, the list of tools needed does not include a chromatic tuner which, really is essential for adjusting intonation.

BTW, I only check intonation when putting on strings from a different manufacturer or changing model, gauge, material, etc. I find this setting very stable & immune to New England seasonal weather.

[lethargytartare]

First, yes, by "first string" they would be referring to the G.

I'm not not sure how I feel about that approach -- not to say there's anything wrong with it.

I intonate the strings one at a time in order, from E to G and if I'm bored, I might recheck them all once more when I'm done. I'm not too fussy about the process.

Alternately, I'll intonate the G and E (or for you, B), then stagger the strings in between in a steady stagger between the two. But it's been many years since I had an instrument start in such a state that I needed to do the G-E thing -- most instruments I get just need all the saddles tweaked a bit.

And I've intonated with every kind of tuner possible -- cheapies, strobes, etc. You can get quite solid results with pretty much anything unless you're extremely sensitive to variations and you play high up the neck a lot.

Good luck!

ltt