NUT: shim and file, or no shim and build up with glue

[Linas]

Ok, so i ordered a replacement TUSQ nut for my SX jazz bass. Now the predicament is, when set all the way in the slot, the E and G strings are too low, but when shimmed just a tad, the E and G are perfect but the A and D are too high. Now, which rout should i go for? shim under the nut and file down, or no shim and build up the nut with crazy glue?

[jim1457]

I don't think crazy glue is too good for filling gaps. Maybe epoxy, but that would make any future changes a nightmare.

I'd try to make a custom shim (tapered) so that no filing is neccesary. I think it would be easier to test and adjust before glueing.

[Linas]

What am i supposed to shim a nut with, through my searches, i have found people use anything from paper to beer can scrap. Does it matter at all? Is one material better than another?

[guitarded]

Originally Posted by Linas

Ok, so i ordered a replacement TUSQ nut for my SX jazz bass. Now the predicament is, when set all the way in the slot, the E and G strings are too low, but when shimmed just a tad, the E and G are perfect but the A and D are too high. Now, which rout should i go for? shim under the nut and file down, or no shim and build up the nut with crazy glue?

You should shim under the nut and file down. Super Glue, as you probably know, is dangerous stuff and difficult to control. I use the gel type and it's much less of a hassle. I'm filling the D string slot on my Dingwall tonight to keep from having to replace the nut. I like to take the easiest route, when possible. Wish me luck!

Mark

[jim1457]

Originally Posted by Linas

What am i supposed to shim a nut with, through my searches, i have found people use anything from paper to beer can scrap. Does it matter at all? Is one material better than another?

I think a beer can or paper could work, and I don't know how much of an audible difference there would be, but I would use wood. Preferably, the same wood as the neck. Definitely something with even consistency and straight grain, like Maple or Mahogany. Not Pine or any other "soft wood" (like a 2x4).

A simple source of maple would be to buy a dowel that is about the same diameter as the nut slot. (if you have access to a table saw you could mill a thin piece from scrap to start off with.) Start by leaving it long and clamping it down to a table, then shape the end of it. A file or coarse sandpaper on a block should work well for this. If your good with blades, that'd be even faster.

Then before you cut the length, stick the tip in there to see if its the right thickness. When it's right, pull it out and add the glue (sparingly) and put it all back together. After that, carefully cut the excess off with a razor knife and you're back in business.

Good luck,

Jim

[62bass]

Home centres sell 3/4" wide real wood veneer by the foot for edging plywood and particle board that may work. I have some in oak, mahogany and maple. It's easy to trim with an exacto knife. Very handy stuff to keep a supply of.I've used it to shim up a nut as well as shimming neck pockets. If it's a bit too much, which is sometimes the case, I then file down the nut until it's right.