Oh no...(Maxed out truss rod..)

Thunder_Fingers · #1 02-18-2006, 09:03 AM

yes... The rumours about maxed out truss rods on geddys from factory is true... just to bad i didnt have to touch the trussrod before a year after i bought it...(yes i know i should have checked it once got it, but at that time i had no clue about checking and setting up my basses..)

Is there anything i can do to save the neck? i realy love this bass, and im quite sad that its.... Ruined....

Joe Nerve · #2 02-18-2006, 09:08 AM

Real sorry about your bass. This is exactly why I loathe Fender. So many people get screwed with their crap, and I honestly don't think they care. I don't believe they care about anything more than making money.

I would get on the phone immediately, and make sure they replaced the bass and/or better yet - my money. I would make as much noise as possible about here also if they gave me any kind of hard time whatsoever. I took a beating on a $1000 bass I bought from Fender and I think they need to start caring about the quality of the stuff they put out.

SGT. Pepper · #3 02-18-2006, 10:17 AM

Try loosening the rod as far as it will go with no strings on the bass. Keep it like that for three or four days. Restring the bass, and set it up accordingly. Sometimes if you give the neck a rest period with no tension on it it straightens. When you restring it use lighter guage strings such as 40-95's or 45-100's. Don't exceed these guages or use flatwounds. Try to keep it in a cool place when resting it. This will help to tighten it up and straighten. This method does work if the neck is strong and the rod is good but it does require patience. Good Luck.

62bass · #4 02-18-2006, 01:31 PM

As long as you haven't broken the rod or stripped the threads you can save it. Loosen the truss rod nut and remove it. Put one or two small washers on the the truss rod. Put the nut back on and tighten. This gives you a bit more "purchase" and you should now be able to tighten the truss rod enough to straighten the neck.

I've done this on many Fenders that have run out of room on the truss rod.

It's also always a good idea when straughtening a neck to apply some pressure on the headstock so you don't put too much force on the nut and threads. You can have someone push gently on the headstock or rig up a clamp as some do.

I've sometimes (on really old necks) used a clamp and heat to ease the neck into position before tightening the truss rod. But, better know what you're doing before you try this.

If the rod's broken or threads stripped you need a new neck.

Thunder_Fingers · #5 02-18-2006, 01:38 PM

How do i know if the thread(exactly what is a thread) is stripped or not?

Thunder_Fingers · #6 02-18-2006, 01:46 PM

and another, maby not a big problem, but i bought this bass from USA(I Live in Norway...)

62bass · #7 02-18-2006, 01:52 PM

Oh boy Eddie. You'll have to clear up a few simple definitions first. Use an illustrated dictionary and look up terms like bolt, nut, thread, etc. I learned all that as a young kid but I guess it's not taught anymore.

Some information with illustrations is available on the internet as is specific information regarding guitar set up.

Don't feel bad. When I got my first bass back when I was a callow youth I didn't even know there was a truss rod and that necks could be adjusted.

I've seen a lot of inexperienced guys ruin their truss rods by not knowing what they're doing. Sometimes if you take it to a tech he'll let you watch while he does simple fixes. You can learn a lot that way.

I haven't read all the stcky threads above, but there may be enough information there for you.

Good luck.

Thunder_Fingers · #8 02-18-2006, 02:00 PM

I well, i think the main problem with me not understanding all the part names, might be that im norwegian and that English is is not my proper language, so i have other names for things...

62bass · #9 02-18-2006, 05:26 PM

Okay Eddie. That's a good excuse. I should have noticed you're Norwegian. Sorry. I thought you were a product of our modern North American education system.

Yes, check the sticky threads above and clear up a few of the English words and you'll be all set. It's all pretty simple once you take a look at it. You should be able to do simple set up jobs yourself with a bit of study. It won't take you long to learn.

erik II · #10 02-18-2006, 06:29 PM

Hallå Eddie. Her er en liten oversikt:

Threads = gjenger. "Stripped" betyr at gjengene er slitt av, så mutteren roterer uten å bevege seg innover, eller går litt inn og så glipper tilbake.
Nut = mutter (OBS: brukes også om listen med spor i i enden av halsen, som strengene går over før de settes i stemmeskruene. Kalles vel "sal" på norsk)
Bolt = bolt, skrue
Washer = skive

Metoden som beskrives her hjelper hvis mutteren ikke går langt nok inn - skru mutteren helt av, tré et par flatskiver på stangen og sett på mutteren igjen. Dette gir deg noen omdreininger til. Hvis det ikke er nok, sett på flere skiver.

Det anbefales også å "hjelpe til litt" med å rette ut halsen, så ikke mutteren/gjengene får all belastningen.

Kom på en ting: Det tar tid før halsen "setter seg" etter justering - slakk strengene litt, skru mutteren en kvart omdreining, stem bassen og la den stabilisere seg noen timer, gjerne over natten. Sjekk om halsen har blitt rett nok, hvis ikke, gjenta prosessen...