| Ebony generally has a tighter grain and more oils within it's various samples. Ebony is rarely a "thirsty" wood. Some Rosewoods may dry, but Ebony generally stays often pliable & resinous.
Often applying a neutral oil to a tight-grained wood leaves much unabsorbed oil. This enters the strings and (occasionally) the fret grooves. It's a good idea to ask yourself why you want to oil Ebony. Is it to darken the color? or to smooth the fret-board as well as darken the color? If that's the case a very light dressing with 000 size steel wool and mineral oil with a full wipe off with achieve that effect without a greasy, oily mess. The oil may not penetrate as well as you'd like, leaving it in place does little. The cotton soft steel wool size and a simple neutral oil applied once will remove finger-crud, darken the color and not leave a mess for strings, finger of fret cuts. However ebony can be a very straight clear grain (quality piano keys?) in which case many people would consider it a waste of time to "treat" it. There are two major species and bla, bla, bla, bla......I would leave it alone except when it gets seriously debris on it from many years of playing.
Personally speaking I would not involve oils as the select samples used for musical instruments are not cheap and extraneous oils (not from the wood's resins) does NOT strengthen the sample, except in cases of a large amount of finger-impacted dirt & debris it's leave it totally be. In that case I would use the above illustrated technique. The less one does to a well made instrument except play it; the better they become with age. I would certainly not treat it more than once per several years. That's not productive. Remember that not all "ebony fret-boards are natural. many fret-boards use a synthetic material.
Last edited by john grey : 08-08-2011 at 11:12 AM.
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