p-bass and baddass II

xshawnxearthx · #1 07-12-2005, 01:51 PM

so, hearing all this talk of the bad ass bridge and how it adds sustain and note clarity and all this other stuff.

my question is, does it take up more room on the bass then a standard bridge? it looks a lot bigger.

anyone put these on their mia p-bass? how did you like it?

tplyons · #2 07-12-2005, 01:54 PM

Yes, it does take up more room, and the neck will usually need to be shimmed because of the thicker baseplate of the bridge, but I love it. Had it on my '78 for a while, and took it off only because the color didn't match the rest of my hardware. I plan to have one reinstalled quite soon actually.

Mon Rominee · #3 07-12-2005, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tplyons

the neck will usually need to be shimmed because of the thicker baseplate of the bridge.

I was afraid of that. Ugh. So much for no-mod replacement. Mine should be in in a bout a week, I'll see then.

Double UGH.

xshawnxearthx · #4 07-12-2005, 02:44 PM

ugh, i triple that no mod bs. i want to try one out, because this american bridge bites.

PilbaraBass · #5 07-12-2005, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mon Rominee

I was afraid of that. Ugh. So much for no-mod replacement. Mine should be in in a bout a week, I'll see then.

Double UGH.

Shimming the neck is a no brainer...long before TB and long before I knew anything really about basses, I discovered that a thin piece of material, like a business card, can do wonders for getting your neck angle just right.

Do a search on shims, or shimming, there's HEAPS of stuff here on how to do it...

tplyons · #6 07-12-2005, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mon Rominee

I was afraid of that. Ugh. So much for no-mod replacement. Mine should be in in a bout a week, I'll see then.

That's less of a mod than the bridge swap is. Dude, shimming the neck is standard practice when it comes to doing setups.

Jonki · #7 07-12-2005, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xshawnxearthx

so, hearing all this talk of the bad ass bridge and how it adds sustain and note clarity and all this other stuff.

my question is, does it take up more room on the bass then a standard bridge? it looks a lot bigger.

anyone put these on their mia p-bass? how did you like it?

if you wanna check out how big it is, check out steve harris' bass.
its a p-bass with badass II bridge

**bassybill** · #8 07-12-2005, 06:23 PM

I'm with pilbara and tplyons on this, shimming the neck is dead simple on a bolt-on neck bass. Standard part of a setup, no need for an "ugh".

Mon Rominee · #9 07-12-2005, 06:43 PM

Guys, I kow full well how to shim necks, it's just I have this one dialed in just right, and tho it's contradictory to complain about one end and not the other, I just don't want the hassle.

I usually do a full-size tapered shim out of real wood. I just don't like the idea of there being any gaps at any points of contact that can rob coupling and sustain is all.

So, grrrr. Again.

basslag13 · #10 07-12-2005, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mon Rominee

Guys, I kow full well how to shim necks, it's just I have this one dialed in just right, and tho it's contradictory to complain about one end and not the other, I just don't want the hassle.

I usually do a full-size tapered shim out of real wood. I just don't like the idea of there being any gaps at any points of contact that can rob coupling and sustain is all.

So, grrrr. Again.

i didn't shim my neck when i put it on my jazz bazz. It suppose to be a direct replacement bridge for fender basses.

tplyons · #11 07-12-2005, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by basslag13

i didn't shim my neck when i put it on my jazz bazz. It suppose to be a direct replacement bridge for fender basses.

It's not NECESSARY in many cases, however, in order to dial in a low action sometimes it does become a necessity.

**bassybill** · #12 07-12-2005, 07:37 PM

Hey, MR, you said "ugh" first, and now you're saying "grrr". You can't change your tune mid-thread just to make your point!

I just use cardboard for shimming necks and I've found it works well. I think under the sort of pressure you get in a neck joint, cardboard (at this sort of thickness) will compress down well, until it becomes as rigid as wood. What do you think?

Also non-contact area must be pretty much non-existent, again because of compression squeezing the shim to fit. If you think about a flat neck heel going in a flat neck socket with a tapered shim at one end, there has to be some non-contact area there as well (straight surface meeting a surface with a "kink" in it at the edge of the shim). Or do you actually make a shim that covers the whole of the joint. Sounds unlikely to me, it'd be too thick at the one end, surely? Just my .02, and my insatiable curiosity!

basslag13 · #13 07-12-2005, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tplyons

It's not NECESSARY in many cases, however, in order to dial in a low action sometimes it does become a necessity.

oh well i guess that makes sense. I actually had to raise the action when i put it on.

Mon Rominee · #14 07-13-2005, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassybill

Or do you actually make a shim that covers the whole of the joint. Sounds unlikely to me, it'd be too thick at the one end, surely?

No, I use a decent piece of veneer (often @ .045 thick, if paper backed), and ever so slightly feather sand to one end with a block and real fine sandpaper...it covers *most* of the area (about 2/3rds...) of the pocket. I know that's extremely anal of me, but I think it matters.

Oh, and grrrrugh!

Mon Rominee · #15 07-18-2005, 08:33 AM

Ok, it's on the bass, and I'm gonna notch the saddles after work today.

Question:

This notch I presume is angled, and that the front edge of the saddle is the break point in reference to scale length and note production, so do I file UP TO the front edge of the saddle, but not compromise the flatness of that edge?

I imagine that would be just fine, with an angled notch simply for the string to lie in, to keep it from moving laterally, yes???

Mon Rominee · #16 07-18-2005, 01:51 PM

So, no thoughts on this one then?!?

Jimmy P. · #17 07-18-2005, 07:33 PM

I too am currently installing a Quan BA 2 bridge and am wondering about the shape and location of the saddle notches. I may just do what others have suggested and install it without any grooves initially, and see if the strings shift on the saddles.

The Golden Boy · #18 07-18-2005, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mon Rominee

I imagine that would be just fine, with an angled notch simply for the string to lie in, to keep it from moving laterally, yes???

Yes!

If a slight notch doesn't keep the string in place, continue to "file" out the notch with a piece of old string that's the proper gauge for the saddle.

Mon Rominee · #19 07-18-2005, 07:55 PM

Danka shon. You know what they say, ask 1000 times, file once.

Jimmy P. · #20 07-19-2005, 01:04 AM

Kanda Trading Company has the new BA 2 grooved version available, in chrome, for Yen 13,650 (approx. US$ 125). From the link, click on "BADASS 2 GROOVED" in the "It's New" column.

http://translate.google.com/translat...l%3Den%26lr%3D