P Body and J neck (part two)

[gargemil]

I would like to thank everyone that gave me input on selecting a neck for my bass project. I ended up with a Mighty Mite Jazz neck. I have drilled and mounted it without a hitch. Now I have a question about finishing it. I have a clear set of instructions on applying the waterslide stickers. It involves hansons clear lacquer and various sand papers 400 to 1000 grit. I will need to lacquer the rest of the neck while I am at it (it is pretty much bare wood now). What I need to verify is whether or not to finish the fretboard Looking at my old neck it appears to have been finished at one time but is worn off from playing. Should I finish the fretboard or tape it off? I would guess tape it off but I just want to make sure and get this right (the first time). It was guessing that got me from a truss rod adjustment to a neck replacement in the first place. I would have been better off if Fender said don't tighten it beyond XX in lbs. rather than don't tighten it too much. Vague aint it?
thanks

[202dy]

Lacquer on the back of the neck and the entire headstock. Rosewood and ebony fingerboards should get a coat of oil only. Maple fingerboards should get a coat of lacquer or it will look shabby in a very short period of time.

As far as how many coats of lacquer, it depends on the material. Urethanes only require a couple of coats. Nitro will require six or more depending on how the desired look and feel. Incidentally, most folks prefer a satin lacquer on the back of the neck. High gloss necks tend to cause the thumb to drag and can be uncomfortable. Choice is yours.

[gargemil]

Will linseed oil work on the rosewood fretboard? Or should I use tung oil? Or is there something better yet?
Thanks for the tip on the back of the neck (finish). I was wondering why my left thumb callous was growing faster than my finger callouses.