Partial refinish over old

[Longstreet]

I have a Peavey Fury 2 that my boys gave me a couple of years ago. It's a solid metallic maroon color, and I've been thinking about a custom finish, just to cover up a couple of dings and give it a little bit of flair.

I like the original color, and don't want to totally refinish. I'd like to add some accents in complimentary colors. Do I need to strip the original topcoat, or can I paint over it, after the proper prep? If I need to strip, can I do so without damaging the underlying color. What would be the best way to do so?

I'm pretty comfortable working with the paint work. I've done a little bit of furniture finish, and feel like I can do a presentable job. Just not sure of the procedures involved in this particular job.

Thanks for any help you can give me.

[SurferJoe46]

I don't have nor intend to have a Peavey bass. But if the finish is typical for them as almost any other modern guitar, they use polyurethane or polyester finishes.

The current colors trend is for them to be incorporated in the clear surface that you can touch - although that isn't written in stone. There are two and three stage colors/clear coats too and this must be taken into consideration.

I'd pull the pickguard or control plate to get to some of the areas that aren't visible normally, and experiment there out of sight.

I bet the finish will not come off without taking the color with it. Professionally painted guitars will likely have the colors bonded to the clear coat and damage to one is damage to both.

Any spot repairs are not going to be likely either, since new polys do not bond well to old finishes made of the same material. They need to be re-coated within certain time limits and they will bond to each successive coat that way,

If you wait too long (a week/month) the success rate without sanding/cutting into the old surface gets very iffy.

Some polys require the next coat to be applied in less than 15 minutes to achieve bonding. I think you bass may have exceeded that time factor by a bit.

[john grey]

Just an opinion: re-paint the body after prep or let it be.

I have painted about half a dozen bodies. I have tried hand sanding and sand-blast for stripping, they both have good points. But When I do a paint I use a small size airbrush and prep the wood for a lengthy period. Preparation of the wood is perhaps the most important part. I have also done two oil finishes on ash bodies. But frankly, I believe that painting over existing paint is a serious gamble that I would not do.

If you use a clear polyurethane as a clean sheet cover the existing cover color must be so clean that (realistically) it's going to need a chemical clean for the urethane or other clear coat to adhere for any lengthy period. If you like the original color, leave it be.

If you're going to paint it, paint it thoroughly. Automotive paint distributors often give samples that are large enough to paint a body with several coats (free). A light single coat and a nitrocellulose over coat can make a very nice effect as it's very thin. Polyurethane and related clear coats can be made as thick as a brick if you let them dry and reapply. The biggest concern is drying with no dust or crap to touch the body pretty much the entire time period of drying (until handling-level completed).

This is only my opinion obviously and perhaps many would disagree w/ me but if you're not prepared to go all the way; enjoy what you have.



edit: The Iwata Eclipse is one of the better moderate priced air-brushes I've used for small size (bodies) painting. They also stretch your finish / paint as they have a very well designed tip array. If you have compressor, they only cost about 60-70 dollars & they last (there is virtually nothing to wear out).