Peavey Cirrus Truss rod question

[SS_korn89]

Hi. I have a new Peavey Cirrus BXP 5 string bass that i just got a couple weeks ago. I slapped some new strings on it and i'm trying to set it up but I'm running into problems. The neck has a little bit of relief from what I can tell, but I have the saddles at the bridge all the way down and there is still about 1/4" gap between the low B and the 12th fret. I'm trying to get low action. Does the truss rod need to be tightened? Any help would be appreciated.

[Diogenes]

Originally Posted by SS_korn89

...The neck has a little bit of relief from what I can tell...

Read this.

[SS_korn89]

Hmmm.. I've read that and tried adjusting the truss rod and it seems not to be doing anything. I'm also not getting any buzz anywhere, but the neck relief is less than a credit card, so I'm very confused. I'll keep tweaking it. I'd take it in for a pro setup but dont have the money.

[lethargytartare]

So from your description "no buzz" sounds pretty obvious -- if your strings are a 1/4" above the 12th fret, you're probably not gonna be dealing with buzz. But if the saddles are bottomed out, that's a big big big gap, and sounds like something is really out of whack.

The info you're giving doesn't fit together really well, so it's tricky to give advice. With the saddles bottomed, and a small amount of relief, about the only thing I can think of is a nut that's way too high...or a loose neck (but is the BXP a set neck?).

So one thing -- you can take the strings off, loosen the truss nut completely, and then tighten just to the point where you feel the first resistance. That's a good starting reference point ("finger tight" or the zero-point). Then follow the guides -- string up, measure relief, adjust nut 1/8th turn, measure, etc. If it's not responding in a way that makes sense, maybe wait a day between truss adjustments -- see if it's just taking a while to react and stabilize.

And then pictures -- if you can post pics of the action and setup, folks here might be able to come up with more theories.

Cheers!
ltt

[Zooberwerx]

One thing at a time...

Your relief should be ~.012 - 0.14" at the 8th fret with a capo on the first fret and string depressed at the last fret. You'll see variations on this but its always worked for me. Plunk down the $4 at Pep Boys for a decent set of feeler gauges...they'll come in handy for addt'l set-up work.

Nut / string height should be around .003 - .005" between the string and first fret with the string fretted at the 3rd fret.

My string height runs from 7/64" on the low B to 5/64" on the G. Again, YMMV.

If you have the relief and nut set correctly and the string height is still 1/4" with the saddles bottomed out, the problem rests with the bridge.

Riis

[SS_korn89]

Thanks for the help. I figured out what the problem was. The neck angle is off by alittle bit, but I can't shim the neck since its a neck through. SO I took the bridge saddles and grinded the bottom of them a millimeter or two so they could basically go lower. This probably wouldn't work for every type of bridge but this one was pretty easy. Now the action is super low and adjustable with no buzz. Plays beautifully now. I was getting worried for awhile.

[Zooberwerx]

Originally Posted by SS_korn89

Thanks for the help. I figured out what the problem was. The neck angle is off by alittle bit, but I can't shim the neck since its a neck through. SO I took the bridge saddles and grinded the bottom of them a millimeter or two so they could basically go lower. This probably wouldn't work for every type of bridge but this one was pretty easy. Now the action is super low and adjustable with no buzz. Plays beautifully now. I was getting worried for awhile.

Wile E. Coyote....genius! Glad it worked out to your satisfaction. This may not always be the best solution as the modification may have a detrimental effect on the string angle / break as it passes over the bridge saddle.

Enjoy the Cirrus!

Riis

[SS_korn89]

I thought it was a little risky but I felt better about it after the guitar techs at our local shop recommended it. At least I can always raise the saddles back up if something bad would to come of it.

[Zooberwerx]

Originally Posted by SS_korn89

I thought it was a little risky but I felt better about it after the guitar techs at our local shop recommended it. At least I can always raise the saddles back up if something bad would to come of it.

Proof of the pudding is in the pie...."plays beautifully now". And how much did you spend on the repair? Probably 'nuthin!

Riis

[lethargytartare]

And all things considered, beats the other path some take -- routing the body to lower the bridge

Good job!

ltt