Planet Waves Hyrdrate Fingerboard Conditioner

Youngspanion · #1 09-14-2009, 05:37 PM

has anyone here ever heard of this product? It claims to oil and condition and is a 'unique formula of oils and cleaners' and "will restore the character of dark natural wood fingerboards".

dmusic148 · #2 09-14-2009, 05:43 PM

Hmm....there are lots of these things around. Most folks will tell you to just use lemon oil. I've personally never found it necessary to use anything at all.

Youngspanion · #3 09-14-2009, 05:48 PM

Where can I buy Lemon Oil? Is that what I'm looking for? My wife has Murphys Oil. Is that the same?

John Bigboote · #4 09-14-2009, 05:56 PM

Go to any art supply store and get a two-ounce bottle of boiled linseed oil. After rubbing down your fongerboard and frets with 0000 steel wool and blowing off the "shavings" (yeah, keep 'em away from your pickups), apply the oil with a cotton swab, let it sit for five minutes, rub it off with a rag, and dispose of the rag carefully (i.e., let it sit outside until the oil's evaporated). That little bottle will last you *years.*

HTH,

-jb

jmac · #5 09-14-2009, 06:13 PM

I ran across an article from a person responsible for the historical preservation of the furnishings of Colonial Williamsburg. It might have even been posted on TB.

Anyway, the guy basically says that lemon oil, etc. is nonsense. I did a quick google search, but couldn't find it.

Don't shoot the messenger.

Youngspanion · #6 09-14-2009, 06:18 PM

Thanks guys

Steveaux · #7 09-14-2009, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Bigboote

Go to any art supply store and get a two-ounce bottle of boiled linseed oil. After rubbing down your fongerboard and frets with 0000 steel wool and blowing off the "shavings" (yeah, keep 'em away from your pickups), apply the oil with a cotton swab, let it sit for five minutes, rub it off with a rag, and dispose of the rag carefully (i.e., let it sit outside until the oil's evaporated). That little bottle will last you *years.*

HTH,

-jb

+1 on the linseed oil, but ...

I won't use steel wool on bare wood (ask any gunstock maker), it has a tendency to leave tiny pieces of wicker in the wood. Fine scotch-brite will do the job without leaving little wires stuck in the grain.

John Bigboote · #8 09-14-2009, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steveaux

I won't use steel wool on bare wood (ask any gunstock maker), it has a tendency to leave tiny pieces of wicker in the wood. Fine scotch-brite will do the job without leaving little wires stuck in the grain.

Been doing it that way for years and haven't noticed the phenomenon, but I sure won't say it ain't true. So if ScotchBrite works, rock on!

-jb

Steveaux · #9 09-14-2009, 07:06 PM

The reason I mention gunstock makers is they point out that the wicker will eventually rust from skin-oil. This makes for little brown-red stains in lighter colored woods.

Also, I've had the misfortune of getting a few wickers embedded in my hand ... kinda like a fiberglass itch from hell.

In the end, use what you like.

I think the OP will be amazed at how linseed oil makes the grain "pop".

lethargytartare · #10 09-15-2009, 09:38 PM

I used to use oil regularly (dr. duck's ax wax) until I refretted my guitar...that was a hellish process -- the oil made planing the board a mess, gluing the frets a hassle...ugh. There certainly could be a more moderate use that would not have this same result, but I stopped at that point.

I use Liberon 0000 steel wool (stuff in hardware stores can have traces of silica that can mess with finishes, I've been told) to clean my fretboards -- I scrub the boards pretty aggressively, and polish the frets at the same time.

Cheers!
ltt

6pack Jon · #11 09-15-2009, 10:06 PM

I've used the Planet Waves Hydrate this past week. It seems to work well.

JimmyM · #12 09-15-2009, 10:50 PM

Whatever you use, don't use it often. People over-oil their FB's, and then they get all slimy and stuff, and that's no good for the wood.

TheSuzie · #13 09-16-2009, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Youngspanion

Where can I buy Lemon Oil? Is that what I'm looking for? My wife has Murphys Oil. Is that the same?

"Lemon Oil" is mostly mineral oil with sometimes some solvents (bad for wood) and usually some artificial "lemon" fragrance and coloring. In some rare cases that may be a bit of natural citrus scent. If you read the MSDS on these sort of products, you will find they are all mostly mineral oil. Mineral oil from the drug store is a lot cheaper and is also somewhat less chemically nasty.

I wrote to Planet Waves...

Question:

Hi, Is there an ingredient list and an MSDS available for your
fingerboard conditioner? Please send me info or links if possible.
Thanks, Susan

Response:

Good morning,
Thanks for contacting us. Unfortunately we can not disclose that
information. It's essentially a proprietary mineral oil based formula.
Hope this helps-
Best,
Mike

So I would bet it is almost all mineral oil, just color and fragrance and possibly some organic solvents (bad for wood) added.

IMO these sort of products are a ripoff. They sell you 20 cents worth of oil for 5-10 dollars.

And yes, as mentioned above please use any oil sparingly.

Peace,
S

TheSuzie · #14 09-16-2009, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Bigboote

Go to any art supply store and get a two-ounce bottle of boiled linseed oil.

I personally wouldn't use "boiled" linseed oil. That contains solvents and other toxic additives. Not something I want on an instrument that I am handling a lot. For some really good info on linseed oil -

http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infpai/inflin.html

Peace,
S

bassyboy · #15 09-16-2009, 11:35 PM

the very best thing for rosewood or ebony boards is bore oil it is made
specifically to restore these types of woods it is used on the bore of woodwinds, been using it for years it conditions the wood and makes it look beautiful. be sure to get the good stuff thats specific for wind instruments not cheap but a small bottle will last years
as you don't use much.

TheSuzie · #16 09-17-2009, 12:32 AM

Depends on which bore oil. Some bore oils are made with high quality natural oils but the vast majority are just mineral oil and fragrance. Not the best for the wood and vastly overpriced for what you are getting. Each product must be examined on an individual basis otherwise it is like buying a bass with the only description being "bass guitar"

Peace,
S

TheBlueFalcon · #17 09-24-2009, 05:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steveaux

+1 on the linseed oil, but ...

I won't use steel wool on bare wood (ask any gunstock maker), it has a tendency to leave tiny pieces of wicker in the wood. Fine scotch-brite will do the job without leaving little wires stuck in the grain.

May I ask which Scotch-Brite product you use please?

Steveaux · #18 09-24-2009, 01:42 PM

My apologies, I used Scotch-Brite as a generic, kind of like Kleenex or Band-Aid.

I believe the stuff on my bench right now was actually made by Norton. There are many manufacturers of abrasive pads. Use the fine, soft pads for fretboard work.

TheBlueFalcon · #19 09-24-2009, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steveaux

My apologies, I used Scotch-Brite as a generic, kind of like Kleenex or Band-Aid.

I believe the stuff on my bench right now was actually made by Norton. There are many manufacturers of abrasive pads. Use the fine, soft pads for fretboard work.

Thanks. I've gone with a microfibre cloth, should be fine for my needs.

Pilgrim · #20 09-24-2009, 02:33 PM

I haven't oiled the fretboard on the '72 neck which is on my '63 P since I installed it in 1972 - no problems. If I did, it would probably be straight mineral oil, used VERY sparingly.