Plugging control cavity holes from pots unused...

Deepwoods · #1 12-02-2009, 06:39 AM

I am converting a Fender P-bass Lyte to standard passive P electronics/controls which will leave 2 unused holes exposed where pots/knobs used to be (rear routed). I would like to get rid of the unused pots/knobs so they are not in the way and wanted to know if anybody had a suggestion of how to plug the holes. It's a black bass so I would like the fix to blend in and be not so noticeable. Ideally some sort of rubber grommet plug would be great but I wouldn't know where to get something like that. Anybody have ideas or suggestions? Thanks!

xaxxat · #2 12-02-2009, 08:20 AM

Hardware stores often carry black plastic plugs that will snap into a 1/4" hole. I'm assuming that's your pot size hole. They might carry other sizes too. They're usually kept in the loose screw section. My local True Value has them.

R. Laevinus · #3 12-02-2009, 08:42 AM

I typically use a domed, hex-socket bolt of the right size, matched with a rubber o-ring to protect the finish and a nut (on the inside) with a nylon lock-washer. Looks all right, and you get get 'em anodized or painted in black.

Deepwoods · #4 12-02-2009, 11:18 AM

Thanks guys, I will check out both of these possibilities.

Steveaux · #5 12-02-2009, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R. Laevinus

I typically use a domed, hex-socket bolt of the right size, matched with a rubber o-ring to protect the finish and a nut (on the inside) with a nylon lock-washer. Looks all right, and you get get 'em anodized or painted in black.

Do you mean Button-Head Screws?

R. Laevinus · #6 12-02-2009, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steveaux

Do you mean Button-Head Screws?

Nope. As I understand it, screws are typically meant to be driven into wood/concrete/masonry/composite/metal etc. and hold themselves in there, while bolts are meant to be driven through something and secured with a nut on the other side.

I could be completely wrong, of course. I'd assume a screw would do the job too, but only if you have no intent to ever remove it, as the threads would almost certainly destroy the finish around the hole. A bolt of the right size, on the other hand, slips right through (smaller, finer machine-threads as opposed to holding threads), and gets tightened up with a bolt - ideally with an integral lockwasher, so it doesn't come undone at an inopportune time.

Steveaux · #7 12-03-2009, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R. Laevinus

Nope. As I understand it, screws are typically meant to be driven into wood/concrete/masonry/composite/metal etc. and hold themselves in there, while bolts are meant to be driven through something and secured with a nut on the other side.

I could be completely wrong, of course. I'd assume a screw would do the job too, but only if you have no intent to ever remove it, as the threads would almost certainly destroy the finish around the hole. A bolt of the right size, on the other hand, slips right through (smaller, finer machine-threads as opposed to holding threads), and gets tightened up with a bolt - ideally with an integral lockwasher, so it doesn't come undone at an inopportune time.

Take it from someone who makes his living with things mechanical. The thing that makes a screw a screw is the thread.

What you are talking about is, indeed, a Button Head Screw. Purists would call it a Button Socket Head Cap Screw.

Knowing the correct terminology makes it easier for folks to order/buy the right parts.

R. Laevinus · #8 12-03-2009, 08:20 AM

Fair enough.

...but now I'm confused as to the difference between a screw and a bolt.

Steveaux · #9 12-03-2009, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R. Laevinus

Fair enough.

...but now I'm confused as to the difference between a screw and a bolt.

There really is no difference. Some have come to refer to heavier fasteners as "bolts", but the fact is the operative feature is the thread.

Some use your definition. Some say "if the tool goes around the head, it's a bolt ... in the head, it's a screw".

It's actually kind of an odd little semantic game. The Industrial Supply Co.'s don't always agree among themselves.

The bottom line, though, is knowing what to order/ask for to get the right part. In this case, it's "Button Head Screw".

Oh, by the way, I think yours is an excellent method for covering empty holes. I always leave a non-functioning pot or switch in there ... the Mojo Switch.

R. Laevinus · #10 12-03-2009, 11:06 AM

Fascinating, thanks!

As per your Mojo Switch... that would aggravate me endlessly!

Plus, I find that using a couple of big giant screws lends a sort of 'industrial' -ish look, which I sort of appreciate.

202dy · #11 12-03-2009, 12:25 PM

What about a Chicago screw? Smooth surface and clean installation.

Scroll down to 129004. Available in black, ten pieces will set you back all of five bucks plus shipping. If there is a local fastener supplier they might have them, too.

Steveaux · #12 12-03-2009, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 202dy

What about a Chicago screw? Smooth surface and clean installation.

Scroll down to 129004. Available in black, ten pieces will set you back all of five bucks plus shipping. If there is a local fastener supplier they might have them, too.

You'd need a spacer, or they'd be like sizzlers on a cymbal.

Besides, you know you like the Industrial look. C'mon .....

202dy · #13 12-03-2009, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steveaux

You'd need a spacer, or they'd be like sizzlers on a cymbal.

Rubber O ring on the shaft in the control cavity side will take care of that problem.

Quote:

Besides, you know you like the Industrial look. C'mon .....

That's the point. Sorry. Not to my taste at all. Smooth and unobtrusive as opposed to clunky and industrial.

Steveaux · #14 12-03-2009, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 202dy

Rubber O ring on the shaft in the control cavity side will take care of that problem.

That's the point. Sorry. Not to my taste at all. Smooth and unobtrusive as opposed to clunky and industrial.

That'll work.

Deepwoods · #15 12-03-2009, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steveaux

That'll work.

All pots have been removed. I wired the single P pickup directly to the output jack. It sounds great after eq'ing at the amp. I will hit up ACE hardware tomorrow to see if I can find some rubber plugs.

Deepwoods · #16 12-03-2009, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steveaux

That'll work.

All pots and knobs have been removed. I wired the single P pickup directly to the output jack. It sounds great after eq'ing at the amp. I will hit up ACE hardware tomorrow to see if I can find some rubber plugs. I will post some pics when I finally find something that works.

Deepwoods · #17 12-04-2009, 10:19 PM

OK, here is what I came up with... These are plugs that are typically used to hold auto interior panels in place from ACE Hardware. Thanks xxaxxat! Now for something to cover the ugly hole where the J bridge p/u was! Actually, I will probably go the Dimarzio Model J/P route whenever funds allow and I want a change. Thanks all!

seanm · #18 12-04-2009, 11:14 PM

I usually just leave a dud pot in the hole. It's not connected to anything, but who knows? Could be useful if the soundman asks you to turn down

Steveaux · #19 12-05-2009, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanm

I usually just leave a dud pot in the hole. It's not connected to anything, but who knows? Could be useful if the soundman asks you to turn down

Yup ... that's what the Mojo Switch/Pot is for.

202dy · #20 12-05-2009, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deepwoods

OK, here is what I came up with... These are plugs that are typically used to hold auto interior panels in place from ACE Hardware. Thanks xxaxxat! Now for something to cover the ugly hole where the J bridge p/u was! Actually, I will probably go the Dimarzio Model J/P route whenever funds allow and I want a change. Thanks all!

Excellent. Thank you for the source.