Possible to fabricate a longer nut?

I've recently acquired a Douglas WOB-826 fretless bass, and in attempting to set it up (with D'addario XL's), I found that there isn't enough bridge distance to move the saddles toward the nut, and if I move the bridge up toward the nut, I fear there might not be enough vibration for the bridge pickup to respond to. Pending whether the bass is covered under warantee or not, I'm wondering if it's possible to have a nut fabricated so it hangs over the fingerboard about .5 of an inch, which not only should solve the problem, but should "move" the pickups further from the bridge slightly, where I'd prefer them. Thus, my question: is it heard of to fabricate a nut which hangs over the edge of the fingerboard toward the bridge in given distance?

One tech I've taken it to has worked with the bass, but refuses to even touch it any further, so any relevant advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[Chasarms]

It's fairly common practice on the Double bass as a means of shortening the string length on huge, old basses with 43" + mensure.


Why do you think it will help your BG situation?

Originally Posted by Chasarms

It's fairly common practice on the Double bass as a means of shortening the string length on huge, old basses with 43" + mensure.


Why do you think it will help your BG situation?

The B, E, and A strings are already right at the top edge of the bridge, and the D, G, and C strings have to go at least a half inch further than what the bridge will allow. It's strictly an intonation issue with the bass.

[Chasarms]

How far off is the intonation and what is your intonation reference on a fretless bass?

Are you saying that when you tune the open strings to pitch, they are out of tune with each other in terms of relative position or are you are trying to get the pitch to match some sort of visual reference?

The false nut will only make things worse in terms of visual reference.

I don't use a visual reference on the bass, so in that sense, I really don't need to set up the bass any further. However, if you tune one of the mentioned strings, the octave harmonic (where the 12th fret would normally be) is quite a bit flat. I could also try thicker strings, but with how flat pitched those strings are already, I think I'd be using a .40 just for the C string alone. Basically, I need the harmonics to line up, if possible.

[RobertUI]

what about moving the entire bridge forward? personally i think that would give you greater flexibility down the road. it sounds like it was just mounted to far back.

[202dy]

Generally speaking, the problem is usually at the nut. What you describe sounds like the string is not breaking at the edge of the nut. Rather, there is a hump in the nut that is the de facto take off point for the string.

Measure the distance from the bridge edge of the nut to the twelfth fret. Double the number and add a 1/4". Where is that spot? If it falls in the middle of the bridge then the bridge placement is correct. If that is true, go back to the nut.

The remedy is to level the seat in the nut. All that really need be done is to file the bottom of the groove so that it is flat rather than arched. It is easiest to do this if you think of increasing the angle from the front (bridge edge) of the nut to the headstock. A little bit of judicious filing will remove the hump. It helps to rub a bit of pencil lead in the groove to make it easier to gauge your progress. It is also easier if a dedicated nut file is employed. Work slowly and check often. Even working at a snails pace this should only take five minutes. The caveat is to be mindful of the front edge of the nut. Unless the goal is to lower the string height at the nut, be careful to stop filing as soon as the pencil marks disappear at the edge. Intonate as usual and you're done.

Thanks for the extended attention. I was actually able to intonate the bass properly with a new set of strings, albeit the saddles are still pretty far forward. All is good though.