Possible nut height issue?

[lowendgenerator]

I was adjusting the relief on one of my basses today. I had a capo on the 1st fret to help eyeball the relief. I left it on while while I noodled around a bit, and the action felt lower, smoother, especially in the first 5-7 frets. Does this mean the nut slots are not deep enough? Or is this just an illusion?

[Slowgypsy]

Originally Posted by lowendgenerator

I was adjusting the relief on one of my basses today. I had a capo on the 1st fret to help eyeball the relief. I left it on while while I noodled around a bit, and the action felt lower, smoother, especially in the first 5-7 frets. Does this mean the nut slots are not deep enough? Or is this just an illusion?

A quick, down and dirty way to check nut slot depth is... Finger from open string to first fret, and note the height/feel. Put your capo on the first fret and finger the second fret and note the height and feel. They should feel about the same... perhaps a tad more height from open to first fret.

[tangentmusic]

Possibly. Or it may be a case of your string gauge being a little too thick for them to rest completley down in the nut.

[Jay2U]

I filed the slots of the nut of my Ibby. The distance between the strings and the first fret is now 0.6 mm (0.023"). This feels so much better than before. Fretting at fret one was hard work, now it isn't. It's also better for the intonation at the lower frets, as the strings are less stressed.
Before lowering the strings by filing the nut, it is worthwhile to check whether all frets are level. On cheap basses like mine, the nut is often a little too high to prevent strings from rattling against bad fretwork.

[Slowgypsy]

Originally Posted by tangentmusic

Possibly. Or it may be a case of your string gauge being a little too thick for them to rest completley down in the nut.

Good point.

[lowendfriend]

Originally Posted by Jay2U

I filed the slots of the nut of my Ibby. The distance between the strings and the first fret is now 0.6 mm (0.023"). This feels so much better than before. Fretting at fret one was hard work, now it isn't. It's also better for the intonation at the lower frets, as the strings are less stressed.
Before lowering the strings by filing the nut, it is worthwhile to check whether all frets are level. On cheap basses like mine, the nut is often a little too high to prevent strings from rattling against bad fretwork.

And just the other day, there was a thread on why in the heck would you want an adjustable nut height (Just-A-Nut on Warwicks.) Here is why.

A handy rule for nut height is to press down on fret #3....string clearance on fret # 2 should be no more than 2 or 3 thousandths.

[dmonroe]

Originally Posted by lowendfriend

A handy rule for nut height is to press down on fret #3....string clearance on fret # 2 should be no more than 2 or 3 thousandths.

How would this handy rule translate to a fretless? The same height to the fingerboard or a little higher?

[lowendgenerator]

Originally Posted by lowendfriend

And just the other day, there was a thread on why in the heck would you want an adjustable nut height (Just-A-Nut on Warwicks.) Here is why.

A handy rule for nut height is to press down on fret #3....string clearance on fret # 2 should be no more than 2 or 3 thousandths.

I wish I could retro-fit the Just-a-nut on my Fenders. It's a hell of a lot easier than filing the nut. I'll break out the feeler gauges tonight after practice and have at it.

[Turnaround]

Originally Posted by lowendfriend

And just the other day, there was a thread on why in the heck would you want an adjustable nut height (Just-A-Nut on Warwicks.) Here is why.

Still, once the nut is cut or set right, why does it need to be adjustable?

[Rocky McD]

If it is adjustable, there is always the possibility of it getting "out of adjustment" I'll stick with the old way, That is usually good for 30 to 50 years.

[lowendgenerator]

I would feel better about turning a screw too far than filing off too much material.

Let us end the discussion of Just-A-Nuts here. It's a toxic subject, and I'd rather talk about string height in relation to the nut, and proper measurement.

[Growly Lytes]

Hey Lowend dont let it worry ya to much cause that can be fixed without buying a new nut.I stuffed around on some cheap basses & i pretty much got the hang of getting it about right or close enough even if i wreck the nut by going to deep.
I end up grinding a pick up into dust & mix it with superglue then fill the slot if its gone south on me.It works !Even better the actual nut shaving`s mixed with superglue.
I like doing my own work on basses i own.

[Slowgypsy]

Originally Posted by Turnaround

Still, once the nut is cut or set right, why does it need to be adjustable?

Good question. I've never needed to re-adjust an adjusted nut.

[Slowgypsy]

Originally Posted by Rocky McD

If it is adjustable, there is always the possibility of it getting "out of adjustment" I'll stick with the old way, That is usually good for 30 to 50 years.

Hey, but what happens after that 30 or 50 years?

[lowendfriend]

Originally Posted by dmonroe

How would this handy rule translate to a fretless? The same height to the fingerboard or a little higher?

Probably the same or maybe a little more clearance....your mwah-ometer will probably dictate the right height. My fretless is a Lakland, so I haven't had to decide myself.