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  #1  
Old 10-29-2006, 09:43 AM
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Problem: Strap Locks on a Hollowbody?

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I've got a Reverend and a Jack Casady that I'd like to equip with strap locks (preferably Schallers). Like everybody else, I'm familiar with the (ridiculous) problem of strap-lock screws being too small relative to original strap-button screwholes, but I've successfully used the ol' toothpick method to solve the problem on my solid-body basses. However, the toothpick method won't work with a hollow body, as the screw needs to attach to either a thin plastic or thin wood body wall. Indeed, it doesn't even make sense to use regular wood screws at all.

So, what's the best way to install strap locks on a hollow-bodied bass guitar?
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Old 10-29-2006, 10:13 AM
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  #3  
Old 10-29-2006, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lobster11
I've got a Reverend and a Jack Casady that I'd like to equip with strap locks (preferably Schallers). Like everybody else, I'm familiar with the (ridiculous) problem of strap-lock screws being too small relative to original strap-button screwholes, but I've successfully used the ol' toothpick method to solve the problem on my solid-body basses. However, the toothpick method won't work with a hollow body, as the screw needs to attach to either a thin plastic or thin wood body wall. Indeed, it doesn't even make sense to use regular wood screws at all.

So, what's the best way to install strap locks on a hollow-bodied bass guitar?
If the body doesn't have a block inside for the screw to go into, I'd be very surprised. If it doesn't I'd never trust it with a strap button.
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  #4  
Old 10-30-2006, 10:13 AM
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Hello Rev and JC owners?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pkr2
If the body doesn't have a block inside for the screw to go into, I'd be very surprised. If it doesn't I'd never trust it with a strap button.
This could well be true for the button on the end of the body behind the bridge, but I doubt there is a block in the upper horn of the Rev for the second button. I'm not sure about the second button on the JC, which is in an unusual place on the backside of the body rather than at the end of the horn.

There must be owners of Reverends, Casadys, and other (semi)hollowbodiesout there who have dealt with this. Hello?
  #5  
Old 10-30-2006, 10:55 AM
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When Joe Naylor did the design work on the Reverends he used the old Dano's as a starting (ending?) point. The Danoelectros always have a block in the upper bout.

Actually when you think about it, the same is true of most acoustic stringed instruments. The violin family has a block at each point as does the mandolin family. Acoustic guitars are one of the few that do not. But rest assured, if the factory installed a strap button in that location there is something solid to back it up.

If anyone has run into a situation where this is not true please post. Forewarned is forearmed.

Regards

Last edited by 202dy : 10-30-2006 at 12:26 PM.
  #6  
Old 10-30-2006, 03:13 PM
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It only takes a few minutes to take the screw out and probe with a bent paper clip to determine if it has a block.

As 202 said, "rest assured, if the factory installed a strap button in that location there is something solid to back it up."

It's hard to believe anyone would design an instrument that poorly.
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  #7  
Old 11-03-2006, 05:01 PM
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How 'bout that?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pkr2
It only takes a few minutes to take the screw out and probe with a bent paper clip to determine if it has a block.

As 202 said, "rest assured, if the factory installed a strap button in that location there is something solid to back it up."

It's hard to believe anyone would design an instrument that poorly.
Your suggestion sounded like it was so crazy that it just might work, so once I got over the embarrassment of not having thought of it myself, I found a paper clip and checked out my Reverend. And sure 'nuff, you were right. I wasn't surprised to find a block inside the body for the strap button behind the bridge, but was pleasantly surprised to find a block in the upper bout as well. I installed the straplocks after breaking a toothpick off in the hole so the screw would be tight, and no problems. Just like on a solidbody.

Thanks for the suggestion. Who'da thunk it?
  #8  
Old 11-03-2006, 05:09 PM
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I always re-use stock screws from the instrument when I install Schaller strap-locks.
They're typically a bit too large to fit so I enlarge the button hole a bit with a drill.
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