| Put a capo (or any kind of clamp) on the E string just to the headstock side of the 1st fret. Hold down the E string just to the bridge side of the last (20th - 24th, whatever) fret. Look at the gaps around the 7th to 10th frets. There should be some gap there. The amount is debatable - some say the thickness of a business card. I set mine to the Fender recommendation of 0.012" at the 8th fret. If there's not enough gap, you need to loosen the truss rod by turning the adjuster counterclockwise. If there's too much gap, you need to tighten the truss rod by turning it clockwise. Never turn the truss rod more than 1/4 turn per day. Now repeat these measurements for the G string. It should be within a couple of thousandths of an inch of what you measured on the E string.
After the neck relief is set correctly, then you can set the action (bridge saddle heights) to what feels the most comfortable to you. If you get fret buzzing on a particular string, you will have to raise the appropriate saddle a little bit.
Then, tune everything up using a good tuner, compare the open string pitch to the octave (12th fret) pitch. Set the intonation (bridge saddle horizontal position) to change the overall length from nut to bridge as necessary.
There! You've done an entire setup - almost. All that's left is to set the pickup height(s) to approximately 5/64" on the G and 7/64" on the E, then tweak them slightly to balance out the string-to-string volumes when played through your favorite amp.
Last edited by scottbass : 12-18-2009 at 01:46 PM.
|