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01-22-2009, 07:50 AM
| | | | Proper nut fit
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I recently posted this thread on the Fender forum and would like opinions from other bass players.
I have a MIM Fender Standard Jazz bass that seems to have the G string too close to the edge of the fingerboard. This is my first bass, I've been playing guitar for over 40 years, and didn't notice the cut of the nut untill I played it awhile. I emailed Fender support but got no response, which really bothers me, I have quite a few Gibsons and they have always been helpful when asked a question. Has anyone had a problem like this? I took it to a Fender service center in, but the tech at the store told me he thought it was cut wrong but was "good enough" but for $50.00 to $75.00 he would fit a new nut. Is this normal treatment for customers that buy Fender products. I realize this isn't an american built guitar but.... I thought that the nuts were already pre cut and just mounted on the neck, so maybe since I'm new to bass this is a normal fit. Any info would be appreciated. | 
01-22-2009, 08:14 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Northeast, Houston | | | Steveoh,
I also had an issue with my standard jazzes nut when new. I lived with it for a few years and then replaced it with a drop in replacement part. There is still work to be done with a replacement for correct fit. The edges usually need to be sanded down to fit the width, and the slots need to be lowered for optimim playability. Yours was probably not lined up correctly on inital fit, then sized, easy to have happen.
You should be able to get this done for less than the quoted price for a drop in replacement part. If it was cutting a bone blank, then that would seem fair.
With some simple tools and sandpaper you could lower the slots yourself. If you would like, I can walk you through the process.
I have some nut blanks, and I will be working a nut in the next few days. let me know, and I will take some pictures of how I do this without nut files. | 
01-22-2009, 08:24 AM
| | | | mrhardy, thanks for the info. I'll keep checking back to view the pics if you post them. Do you know if Fender does any fitting work on these nuts at the factory after they install them. I know that Mexican Fenders are assembly line guitars and probably have minimal hand fitting, thats why they cost half of what American Fenders cost. | 
01-22-2009, 08:53 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Northeast, Houston | | | Could not say for sure how much time they spend on fitting out of the instruments. I usually change the nuts anyway as a matter of initial setup. I really like bone for a nut, but the graph tech units are very good as well.
I pretty much take any new bass completely apart, and then rebuild it making sure I like how everything fits together. Control cavities usually have lots of debris left over in them. Necks can usually be made to fit better (level). Install a hardwood shim instead of a piece of sandpaper, if needed. Check for proper fret leveling. Check for proper nut slotting height. Check solder points. Check pickups for enough foam for adequete height adjustment. Oil the board, polish the neck poly with compound,...so on
I'm at work right now, but will put some info together as well as some pics over the next couple of days. | 
01-23-2009, 12:49 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Northeast, Houston | | | Steve,
Slotting a nut:
I use wet dri sandpaper cut into approx .5" width about 3" long. This is my cutting medium.
I have cut an old pair of light gauge strings so that I have about an 8" piece of the ball end of each string. You want something smaller than your current string gauge. With the paper wrapped on the string it makes it slightly wider. The "G" string gets a little tricky, but is doable.
Wrap the paper tight around the string, and try to pinch it closed at the top. You want to minimize opening the top of slot too wide.
Slowly run the string through the slot as you would a regular nut file. Watch to make sure that your keeping the slot straight, and that you are lowering the slot evenly.
Once you have the slot at the proper level, you will want to angle the rear portion of the slot lower than the front.
If you have appropriate sized drill bits they can also be used instead of the strings. Both work quite well for this.
How low to go? I aim for right between the 1/64, 2/64", clearence at the first fret.
2/64" is pretty high, and what I would consider excessive. 1/64" is pretty low. My Geddy has this measurement from the factory. I need to run my relief at .015" to keep fret rattle acceptable with the nut slotted this low.
I can run .010" relief on my Standard jazz with the nut slotted in the middle of the two numbers. However I generally run the relief at .012.
On my fretless with 1/64" at the, nut to board clearance, I can run .005" relief with acceptable board rattle in the first fret position.
Put the new nut in the nut slot and install the "E, A " strings. Apply a little tension to hold the nut if needed, and move the nut side to side to line it up evenly. Mark the nut sides with pencil on the front side of the nut. The front side is slightly wider. Sand the nut to proper "rough" width. Leave it slightly wide till the slots are cut and you have "white" glued it back in place. When your ready, tape off the neck area, and finish sanding the nut width to smooth it out.
You may also need to profile the top of nut. Just gently sand the top of the nut, matching the general angled profile. Look at pictures online. You just don't want the strings buried in the slots. You should be able to feel the strings protrude a little from the slots. About 1/3 dia above the slot is safe.
You should be able to do all of this in about 90 minutes, to a couple of hours. I can cut a nut from a blank like this in about 4 hours.
I still need to work on some pictures of this, but this is how it is done. | 
01-23-2009, 04:27 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Halifax, NS, Canada | | Thanks! Very clear. Quote:
Originally Posted by mrhardy You want something smaller than your current string gauge. With the paper wrapped on the string it makes it slightly wider. The "G" string gets a little tricky, but is doable. | Just thinking; have you tried guitar strings instead? Being thinner, they might make the G cutting easier. | 
01-23-2009, 08:50 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Northeast, Houston | | Quote:
Originally Posted by JustDavid Thanks! Very clear.
Just thinking; have you tried guitar strings instead? Being thinner, they might make the G cutting easier. | I've used several things for the "G" string. I was trying to keep this as simple as possible. A .025/.030 feeler gauge works as well. Getting the proper slot bottom profile cut after that is another issue. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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