question for the Attitude owners

[ga_edwards]

I'm having a little trouble getting the action on my Yamaha RBX4 A2 as low as I'd like it without the string choking out past the 12th fret with the slightest bend.

I've noted that the radius is about the same, if not slightly larger than the Billy Sheehan Attitude model (10"). He's a string bending monster!

I realise that they are in different price brackets, but similar radius necks should be able to get the same action regardless of price.

I was wondering if some kind soul could tell me how low they can get their action say at the 12th fret. I'll then know if I definitely need to spend money on a fret levelling job (which I think I will anyway).

I've also been advised than I could perhaps get the frets ground into a slight conical radius that may help, any thoughts on this?

[202dy]

Originally Posted by ga_edwards

I'm having a little trouble getting the action on my Yamaha RBX4 A2 as low as I'd like it without the string choking out past the 12th fret with the slightest bend.

I've noted that the radius is about the same, if not slightly larger than the Billy Sheehan Attitude model (10"). He's a string bending monster!

I realise that they are in different price brackets, but similar radius necks should be able to get the same action regardless of price.

I was wondering if some kind soul could tell me how low they can get their action say at the 12th fret. I'll then know if I definitely need to spend money on a fret levelling job (which I think I will anyway).

I've also been advised than I could perhaps get the frets ground into a slight conical radius that may help, any thoughts on this?

It is true that necks with similar radii should be able to achieve similar action. However, this request is like asking someone in Chicago for a weather report so wardrobe choices can be made in Honolulu. The only way to determine whether or not the frets on your bass are level is to use a straight edge on them.

A conical radius allows for deep bends in the upper positions. It can also be helpful in getting the string height lower at the end of the neck. This makes it easier to reach the bass strings.

Highly recommended.

[ga_edwards]

Yes, I realise there's other factors involved, but I'd still like to know what sort of minimum action can should be achieved on a similar size and radius neck.

I'm at work at the moment, but IIRC the action is around 3mm on the G string and 12th fret and more on the E. Even then the G still chokes with a just a half step bend high up the neck.

I still think I'll go down the professional fret level/conical radius route, can't make it any worse. I've done a simple levelling job myself in the past, but this one needs more attention.

[202dy]

The first thing to do is to take some measurements: String height at the twelfth fret bass and treble sides, and relief at the seventh fret. If you do not know how to do this refer to the sticky at the top of the page. The Mr. Gearhead contains instructions that conform to the way most luthiers and techs think and operate.

As an aside, 3mm (~.12" or ~7/64") isn't that far off. Some would consider it a decent string height. The target for most players is 6/64" (2.5 mm)and 5/64" (2 mm) bass and treble respectively as measured at the twelfth fret. As far as the strings noting out with a half step bend, it would serve to also measure the string heights at the last fret to get a clear picture of the total setup. It is with the set up that everything starts.

Post your findings here. Someone will help you.

[ga_edwards]

I had been using the Fender spec on Mr Gearhead as a guide for quite sometime, and that is what I strive for.

At the moment this is the best I can get:
G at 12th just over 6/64"; at 24th 6/64"
E at 12th 8/64" same at 24th.

relief at 7th/8th fret with string held down each end of neck is a little higher than I'd like at .028" (0.70mm). I met with resistance when adjusting the truss rod so stopped. Even so, this isn't going to affect the action up the dusty end that much.

yes that's not bad specs for a lot of people, and it's quite playable, with a little buzzing if I dig in too hard, but the slightest bend and the strings, particularly G and D start to choke out, if when just applying a little vibrato.

This is why I was was enquiring to attitude owners as I know it has a similarly radiused fretboard and Billy is known for string bending and other bass pyrotechnics.

FYI, my main bass is a warwick thumb BO 5 string, this has a 25" radius. I realise I've been spoilt being used to such a flat fretboard and can acheive a very low buzz free action without choking, but the Yammy feels much higher. I would have to set the action even higher to stop it choking which would feel unplayable.