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09-16-2011, 11:37 PM
| | | | Quick question concerning MIM Fender bridges
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I would just like to know, as I desire a new bridge, what bridges will fit my mim jazz without requiring the punching of additional holes, or otherwise be a hassle? I just DO NOT feel like mutilating my baby with my woodworking "skills". Also, I've noticed that some bridges come with no grooves in the saddles....WTH?
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bacon club #70
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09-16-2011, 11:46 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Millcreek Township, UT | | | The two that quickly come to mind are the Badass II and the Gotoh 201. Both five-hole drop-in replacements. The Gotoh is cheaper and more closely resembles the original bridge, if that matters to you. The Badass II is a little heavier, IIRC...
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Originally Posted by Kwesi Atoz, forever the inside spoon. | Rickenbacker #19, Mediocre Bassist #3, Mark Wilson Fail #Onion | 
09-16-2011, 11:50 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2009 Location: Montgomery, AL | | I think the babicz full contact is a direct replacement also. Babicz Full Contact Hardware - 4 Bass Bridge
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ATK Club #139:MM SUB #32
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09-16-2011, 11:55 PM
| | | So then, bridges said to have "fender five-hole" pattern are what I'm seeking? Appearances are secondary to function, as far as my priorities go, I just want a bridge that
1. Transmits maximum vibrations to the body of the bass
2. Does not rattle, buzz, or do anything untoward
3. Allows me to set the lowest conceivable action my bass can tolerate
4. Holds the settings with unquestioned stability and reliability
5. REALLY REALLY SHINY 
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bacon club #70
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09-17-2011, 01:10 AM
| | | | the "max vibration" thing is debatable; many will argue that the lighter bridges actually transmit more vibration to the body wood. in reality, the difference might be marginal.
"low action" is not a factor, any normal bridge will let you set the action wherever you want, the bridge has nothing to do with it.
rattling, buzzing, and holding together are the things that might actually make a difference between one bridge and another; the other is string spacing, whether it's adjustable or not. the leo quan is both stable and can be set for different spacings.
i still like the vintage-style threaded-rod saddles; they'll go right on your original plate, allow for proper spacing between the jazz pickup magnet pairs, and when set right, don't move around, since the saddles get pressed together by the strings.
plus, they're cheap.
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Walter Wright
Guitar Repair Gnome
Alpha Music, VA Beach
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09-17-2011, 05:47 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Greeneville, Tennessee | | | Fender High Mass off a Blacktop Jazz or Precision. I paid 41 for mine off eBay and love it. The light is deceiving in the picture, the bridge is chrome, not gold. | 
09-17-2011, 08:19 PM
| | | So, I think that the Fender design is a real winner. I like it, and it seems to be my best bet for the functionality I desire. Now, could anybody fill me in on how to slot a bridge? this seems like a wonderful opportunity to learn some new setup and assembly skills. I also need to adjust my neck, but thats a different thread 
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bacon club #70
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09-18-2011, 10:12 AM
| | | Bump 
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bacon club #70
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09-18-2011, 10:18 AM
|  | Sleepy Pickles McGee | | Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Flanders (Belgium) | | | Schaller 2000. Adjusts in three directions: action, intonation *and* string spacing. Typical Fender "5 holes".
Note: the threefold adjustment means also that for every change you make, you have to loosen the string quite a lot, and retune. Over and over...
__________________ Fender Jazz Bass#735 Mwah Fretless#546 Mediocre Bassist#584 Old Basstards#105 Squier CV#81 Squier VM # Atheist Bass Player#162 Quote:
Originally Posted by over_the_moon You can't touch your P in church. You'll go blind! | | 
09-18-2011, 11:17 PM
| | | | I think i'm going to opt for the fender bridge. I just plain like it, and in my current financial druthers, the cost makes sense. Now, I would be very grateful to tb if I could get some info on properly slotting the bridge saddles. Google yielded very little info :/ also, I am well aware botching this means a ruined bridge, so please, save the "pay a tech" suggestions. This is a chance to learn a very important skill, and I'd love to seize it. Thanks for the replies so far, and thanks in advance for making my upcoming bridge swap a success :-)
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bacon club #70
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09-19-2011, 03:53 PM
| | | | Google is getting me absolutely zero info :-/ Anybody care to inform me on the process of slotting a bass bridge?
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bacon club #70
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09-19-2011, 05:36 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Bellmawr, NJ | | | Slotting a bridge, you would use a file, determine string spacing, and (preferably)with a V shaped file, make a small groove in which the string will sit. Doesn't have to be much, because once the string is at pitch, it will hold in that groove | 
09-19-2011, 05:50 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by majortoby Google is getting me absolutely zero info :-/ Anybody care to inform me on the process of slotting a bass bridge? | I believe Fender bridges are slotted, some Fender bridges have multiple slots for string spacing options.
The only unslotted bass bridge I've ever seen was the older BA II bridges.
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BASS-Fender, AMP-Eden
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09-19-2011, 05:53 PM
| | | Awesome! thanks guys! I figured I was over-thinking the whole slotting "issue", but better to be armed with knowledge going into a project, then to be on here asking how to fix a problem I created 
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bacon club #70
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09-19-2011, 05:54 PM
| | | | Quick ps: I'm extremely poor ATM, so I won't be going through with this for a little while, but I PROMISE to make a thread documenting my efforts when the time comes :-)
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bacon club #70
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09-19-2011, 09:29 PM
| | | then make this easy and cheap; a set of threaded-rod saddles are like $15, and will go right on with no filing or other work.
once installed, you'll be able to easily tweak string spacing.
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Walter Wright
Guitar Repair Gnome
Alpha Music, VA Beach
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