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  #1  
Old 10-21-2012, 07:01 AM
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(Re)Fitting badass V bridge

Hi guys,

Hope this isn't too much of a stupid question, but...

A while ago I asked a (then) local guitar/bass tech to fit a Badass V bridge to my MIM Fender Jazz 5. When I got it back, I noticed that the bridge was not mounted in line with the neck (the "E" string was right on the edge of the neck, and the "B" string was also accordingly out of position and spacing was wrong) I'm no longer local, not even in same country.

If I replace the original bridge, then one of the screw holes from the Badass fitting shows on the "E" string side.

My question is can I move the position of the BA bridge away from the neck a little, so that I can get a new area to fit the bridge but covering the old screw holes, providing I can get the bridge Intonation adjustment screws to cover the correct scale length?

Many thanks
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Last edited by bodmin : 10-21-2012 at 07:03 AM.
  #2  
Old 10-21-2012, 01:41 PM
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How does he do that?
 
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Dowel in the old holes. Install the bridge. Done.

And yes you can move bridge position as long as the saddle stays within proper scale intonation range. I've done it.
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Last edited by PrietoBass : 10-21-2012 at 01:44 PM.
  #3  
Old 10-22-2012, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrietoBass View Post
Dowel in the old holes. Install the bridge. Done.

And yes you can move bridge position as long as the saddle stays within proper scale intonation range. I've done it.
Thanks! I thought it would be ok, but just wanted a bit of reassurance before I put even more holes in my bass (thought the Badass was supposed to be a direct fit, and didn't need to drill new holes, but doesn't appear to be so...).
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  #4  
Old 10-22-2012, 06:03 AM
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Do not dowel the holes. Badass are drilled specifically for Fender. So a simple swap of bridges changes nothing.
Spacing is set at the saddle, some install them and do not file notches for the strings. Set the spacing and notch your saddles.

The string/ neck alignment: you need too loosen your neck bolts and align your neck. This is common to bolt on necks. It was likely off a bit and due to the new saddles not being properly notched, has become more noticeable.

Check this all before you go drilling!
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  #5  
Old 10-22-2012, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96tbird View Post
Badass are drilled specifically for Fender. So a simple swap of bridges changes nothing.
This is what I thought, but the existing screw hole on the Bass side was used to mount the Badass, and on the treble side, the hole spacing is out (distance between centers of the screw holes on original and Badass bridges is to great to allow both original holes to be used), and the tech has repositioned a new screw hole just below and to the right of the old original, (as you look at the bass from above), so the whole bridge was mounted at an angle....
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Last edited by bodmin : 10-22-2012 at 06:49 AM.
  #6  
Old 10-22-2012, 06:50 AM
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Hack job. Use the two middle holes for reference. And plug
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Last edited by 96tbird : 10-22-2012 at 06:57 AM.
  #7  
Old 10-22-2012, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodmin View Post
...the tech has repositioned a new screw hole just below and to the right of the old original, (as you look at the bass from above), so the whole bridge was mounted at an angle....
1. Your "tech" was a moron, and this is just one more reason to at least drop a dowel into the "extra" hole before proceeding.

2. Before you do any more drilling, get some green painter's masking tape, a center punch, and a long straightedge.

3. Adjust the neck joint, to be sure that your neck is properly centered. Don't just wiggle and re-tighten, check the alignment with the straightedge against the stock Fender bridge.

4. Put the tape over the bridge area to protect the finish, and use the straightedge to determine the proper alignment for the Badass.

If the bridge you have was intended to work on a Fender 5-string, then you should be able to find a position that works side-to-side.

Use the center punch to mark the new screw hole positions on the tape, and dowel any of the stock holes that don't match the new hole centers. Drill. Install. Enjoy.
  #8  
Old 10-22-2012, 07:30 AM
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Guys, many thanks for the useful input. I will follow your advice next week, when I get the chance to get a set of strings for it (It's my back up bass).
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  #9  
Old 10-22-2012, 01:11 PM
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How does he do that?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96tbird View Post
Do not dowel the holes. Badass are drilled specifically for Fender. So a simple swap of bridges changes nothing.
My mistake! This is so true. Attached are a couple of photos from my CV60J (which is not a true Fender) with BAII installed. The outer holes did not align... Don't do what I did.
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Last edited by PrietoBass : 10-22-2012 at 01:18 PM.
  #10  
Old 10-22-2012, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96tbird View Post
Do not dowel the holes. Badass are drilled specifically for Fender. So a simple swap of bridges changes nothing.
...and here's an example where I moved the bridge back about 3/16" by doing the same thing (dowels). It's not a BA V, but it's the same (bad) concept.

It worked for me (but it's horrible). You can also pay $50-75 to a luthier if you don't feel up to such monstrosity.
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  #11  
Old 10-22-2012, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrietoBass

My mistake! This is so true. Attached are a couple of photos from my CV60J (which is not a true Fender) with BAII installed. The outer holes did not align... Don't do what I did.
Well his first post did not explain the extent the tech hacked his bass. The two middle holes should have been used as reference by the tech and assess what the next step was.

What you experienced with your Squier is the same as the op Fender (Badass not being a drop in on import Fender). Luckily you have the smarts to have done it correctly. Nice job. The OP will follow the above detailed advice as well as yours and be fine. Too bad he found an idiot to mess it up on him.
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  #12  
Old 10-23-2012, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96tbird View Post
Well his first post did not explain the extent the tech hacked his bass. The two middle holes should have been used as reference by the tech and assess what the next step was.

What you experienced with your Squier is the same as the op Fender (Badass not being a drop in on import Fender). Luckily you have the smarts to have done it correctly. Nice job. The OP will follow the above detailed advice as well as yours and be fine. Too bad he found an idiot to mess it up on him.
Sorry for the lack of info on the opening post am not anyway near the bass, so worked from memory. The problem with the screw holes can be seen in the photo I have managed to get (completely different mounting, but supposed to be the same!!!). So some dowellin will be necessary anyway, as none of the holes line up.
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  #13  
Old 10-23-2012, 11:50 AM
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No biggie, just follow Steve's instructions above.
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  #14  
Old 10-26-2012, 10:05 AM
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Got it sorted!

Many thanks for the advice guys,

It is looking good, and as soon as I get some new strings for it, I'll post a pic or two, to show the result, which I am very happy with.
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  #15  
Old 12-15-2012, 09:51 AM
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Hi all, well! Here, is the photo I promised. I know I should have given the bass a good clean, but I have done so now lol!

I am very pleased with the result , and the bridge works well. I had to refile some of the saddles, but...

Anyway, thanks again for the help and advice.
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  #16  
Old 12-15-2012, 09:59 AM
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Hate to tell you this, but that bridge is still crooked.
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  #17  
Old 12-15-2012, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by JLS View Post
Hate to tell you this, but that bridge is still crooked.
Just measured it, the distance from the 20th fret to the bottom of the bridge is the same across the width of the neck. Is this wrong, or is it just some result of perspective with the photo (I see what you mean in the photo though...)?
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  #18  
Old 12-15-2012, 10:51 AM
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How does he do that?
 
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Don't sweat it! Does it tune and intonate fine?

Yes? You're done. Play it. It will tell you if it needs anything else.
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  #19  
Old 12-15-2012, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLS
Hate to tell you this, but that bridge is still crooked.
Not by my eye (it's a good one, too). The neck might need to pivot to the left, though. The G string is a little closer to the edge of the fingerboard than the B.

But, if the G isn't falling off the fretboard and all other aspects of a setup are good, I wouldn't worry about it past the point of noticing.
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  #20  
Old 12-15-2012, 08:57 PM
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the string angles across the saddles looks funny, but the spacing seems to line right up between the pickup magnets and with the edges of the neck, so i'd say you're good.

as for the G, loosen the 4 neck screws a quarter-turn, pull the neck over until the strings are dead even from each edge, re-tighten; no big deal, you don't even want to de-tune for this tweak.
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Last edited by walterw : 12-15-2012 at 09:01 PM.
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