on removing a nut...

thetawaves · #1 02-03-2008, 02:24 PM

A wee while ago now, made the stupid mistake of trying to fit a higher gauge string into the E string position (recently joined a metal band) and ended up with the nut snapping off from the respective groove outwards.

Considering the gig was that night, i hurriedly stuck the missing bit on with super glue, being especially careful not to get the adhesive on the actual neck/headstock/fretboard or anything nearby the broken bit to avoid it getting attached where it shouldn't

Having ordered a replacement nut, I've attempted to gently pry the original nut off -being especially careful not to damage the surrounding wood (as advised by various luthier pages), then followed the advice of said pages again on trying to gently tap it sideways out with a hammer in order to break the supposedly weak wood glue holding it in place.

Both without any success. Any ideas anyone?

202dy · #2 02-03-2008, 02:49 PM

What kind of bass is it? Does it have a captured (Fender) style nut or a free (Gibson) style nut? The techniques are different.

thetawaves · #3 02-03-2008, 03:01 PM

sorry, i did try getting some photos on here but photobucket is playing up. It's a captured style, sits in a slight inlay.

62bass · #4 02-03-2008, 05:23 PM

The glue probably wicked down into the wood. Super glue does that and is one of its strengths. Acetone might soften it enough to pull out with pliers. The acetone might dissolve the neck finish though so you'd have to be super careful and find a way to only get it to the place you want it. You can also try heating the nut with a soldering iron and that might soften it enough to pull out.

steve66 · #5 02-03-2008, 05:37 PM

Score with a new razor around the nut (between the nut and fretboard) be careful not to cut your fretboard. try using blue painters tape to protect the fretboard.

The idea to use a soldering iron is a good one. Get yourself some tin foil and wrap the soldering tip to keep it clean. If the nut is plastic you can ruin the tip.

The nut should wiggle out of the cavity after applying some heat

202dy · #6 02-04-2008, 08:00 AM

Score the lacquer on the north and south (peg head and bridge) sides of the nut. In addition, score along the lacquer east and west on the sides of the neck. It is important to use a very sharp blade. An Exacto #11 is a good choice, but old fashioned single edge blades work very well, too. Once the lacquer is scored, take a hard wood block and small hammer and tap on the nut both north and south a few times. It is also a good idea to do the same both east and west. A small hardwood dowel rod comes in handy for this procedure. This should loosen up the nut. A pair of end nippers can be used to "walk" the nut out of the slot. The blades of the end nippers are placed flush to the fingerboard area on either side of the nut. Grip the nut with the nippers and gently rock the tool to lift the nut out of the slot. Work along the length of the nut. Other tools can be used the same way but end nippers are the easiest to use.

If the nut refuses to budge using this method drastic measures will have to be taken. Use a razor saw to cut a kerf lengthwise in the nut. Once completed, the nut can be crushed with a pair of nippers and the parts of the nut picked out of the slot. Good hand skills are useful in a delicate task like this.

thetawaves · #7 02-04-2008, 01:17 PM

thankyou all for the replies, 202dy's method worked brilliantly! Bit nervy with the wood block and hammer, but it came off with the minimum amount of fuss after all that. Just got some new material through so will be shaping the new nut. Thanks again, saved me a good deal of service expense at the local guitar shop!