Removing Strings for Repair Work

[selowitch]

Sometimes we remove strings from bass to change pickups, apply copper foil, refinish the body, do the threaded insert mod, etc.

Since I also get advice to change strings one-by-one and not all-at-once, should one take the strings off one-by-one when removing all the strings (and the neck too) and give the neck a chance to settle a bit before removing each successive string, or is all this pretty much moot and you should just go ahead and take the strings off with the idea that you'll need to set it all up again later?

In other words, is it okay to remove all tension derived from strings off of the neck for purposes of repair?

[boynamedsuse]

I'm new to bass, but I suspect guitars share similar "risks." I have heard luthiers weigh in on this topic who agree that it is no big deal to remove all the strings for a short time (say from a day up to a few days, depending on who is doing the talking).

[selowitch]

... which raises the question of a refinishing job, which if done right can take many weeks.

[boynamedsuse]

For something like that, it would be best to consult a luthier before starting the project. Obviously it can be done, but I would not know the steps. It may also vary depending on whether it is a bolt-on, set neck, or neck through construction.

[VinKreepo]

I've done i many times with no problems as I have a nasty habit of switching out electronics in my backup bass a lot (it has the worst hissing problem with active electronics and pitiful output without them). I just loosen the strings one by one just a little so they all loosen at the same time (i.e. 1 turn E, 1 turn A, 1 turn D, 1 turn G, another turn E, another turn A, etc.). I would NEVER loosen just one string all the way, but I don't loosen them all one turn and then let the neck settle or anything, I just loosen them all 1 turn over and over till they are floppy. Then, I take them all off the tuning pegs and usually leave them in the bridge as I do not have slots, but standard holes in my bridge; and IME, straightening the curled end that goes on the tuning peg in order to pull it through the bridge holes dramatically weaken them... having a string snap at the peg and pop you in the face is no fun... specially with guitar strings.

[selowitch]

In my case, these are standard single-truss rod bolt-on basses. Fenders, actually.

[Steveaux]

Originally Posted by selowitch

In other words, is it okay to remove all tension derived from strings off of the neck for purposes of repair?

Yes.

[mech]

Originally Posted by selowitch

is it okay to remove all tension derived from strings off of the neck for purposes of repair?

Yes. If the strings will be off more than a couple of days, I will take the tension off the truss rod. Zero problems.

mech

[selowitch]

Originally Posted by mech

Yes. If the strings will be off more than a couple of days, I will take the tension off the truss rod. Zero problems.

mech

How do you tell how much tension the truss rod is applying?

[JLS]

Originally Posted by selowitch

Sometimes we remove strings from bass to change pickups, apply copper foil, refinish the body, do the threaded insert mod, etc.

Since I also get advice to change strings one-by-one and not all-at-once, should one take the strings off one-by-one when removing all the strings (and the neck too) and give the neck a chance to settle a bit before removing each successive string, or is all this pretty much moot and you should just go ahead and take the strings off with the idea that you'll need to set it all up again later?

In other words, is it okay to remove all tension derived from strings off of the neck for purposes of repair?

That one-at-a-time canard...no, there's no problem in removing all the strings at once. The bass won't explode, the neck won't twist itself into a pretzel.

(And shims don't cause ski jump!)

[FretlessMainly]

Once you remove the strings, take all of the tension of the rod. Make a mental note of how many turns you need to get it to "loose." It likely won't be all that much. When you are re-stringing later, just snug the rod a bit, string up and check your relief. Then dial it in, no more than a quarter of a turn at a time. It can take a day or so to get it right, since you may need to let things settle in for several hours before you can re-check. Other times, it takes 5 minutes and you're good to go.

[Oren Hudson]

I own many basses and have had necks off of more than one for more than a week for different reasons. I also remove all strings at once when putting on new ones. This is also a good time to dress the rosewood fretboard and is way easier to do naked. Point being, in countless string changes and often times necks removed also, I've never had any issues.

[Jazzdogg]

Originally Posted by FretlessMainly

Once you remove the strings, take all of the tension of the rod. Make a mental note of how many turns you need to get it to "loose." It likely won't be all that much. When you are re-stringing later, just snug the rod a bit, string up and check your relief. Then dial it in, no more than a quarter of a turn at a time. It can take a day or so to get it right, since you may need to let things settle in for several hours before you can re-check. Other times, it takes 5 minutes and you're good to go.

Why? What is the basis for your recommendation?

[mmbongo]

Originally Posted by Oren Hudson

This is also a good time to dress the rosewood fretboard and is way easier to do naked.

Remind me to never let you work on my fretboard

[selowitch]

Originally Posted by mmbongo

Remind me to never let you work on my fretboard

Why do you say that?

[Benjamin Strange]

Originally Posted by FretlessMainly

Once you remove the strings, take all of the tension of the rod. Make a mental note of how many turns you need to get it to "loose." It likely won't be all that much. When you are re-stringing later, just snug the rod a bit, string up and check your relief. Then dial it in, no more than a quarter of a turn at a time. It can take a day or so to get it right, since you may need to let things settle in for several hours before you can re-check. Other times, it takes 5 minutes and you're good to go.

Poppycock.

Only if you're storing the neck for an extended period of time (read: years) should you concern yourself with taking tension off the truss rod. For repairs, restrings, etc., you can take them all off with no ill effects whatsoever.

[Ric5]

Originally Posted by selowitch

Since I also get advice to change strings one-by-one and not all-at-once, should one take the strings off one-by-one when removing all the strings (and the neck too) and give the neck a chance to settle a bit before removing each successive string,

Dude you do not need to change your strings that way ... take them all off. clean the fretboard, then put on new strings. It is a myth that taking off all of the strings will damage the neck. Unless you leave them off for weeks or months, then you should back off the truss rods.

[selowitch]

Originally Posted by Ric5

Dude you do not need to change your strings that way ... take them all off. clean the fretboard, then put on new strings. It is a myth that taking off all of the strings will damage the neck. Unless you leave them off for weeks or months, then you should back off the truss rods.

Okay, I'm satisfied with that answer.

[walterw]

Originally Posted by Oren Hudson

This is also a good time to dress the rosewood fretboard and is way easier to do naked.

Originally Posted by mmbongo

Remind me to never let you work on my fretboard

Originally Posted by selowitch

Why do you say that?

i think bongo would just be happy to not see him working on his fretboard

[walterw]

Originally Posted by JLS

...no, there's no problem in removing all the strings at once. The bass won't explode, the neck won't twist itself into a pretzel.

(And shims don't cause ski jump!)

yes, yes, yes,...huh?

it seems pretty obvious that a shim at the end of a neck pocket can push a ski-ramp into a neck unless there's support in the middle (between the two pairs of screws).