Removing Super Glue from finish...any ideas?

[P. Aaron]

When I bought my Fender P-V, I asked that they throw in a used Indo-Squier fretless-Jazz w/case. What I affectionately call the Jaco-Knock-Off.

The bass plays fine and the tone is what it is and I can tweak that.

The PROBLEM IS THIS: Like many late model Fenders, it is equipped w/Straplock pegs (that probably worked loose) and the previous owner it appears super-glued the horn peg back in and let the slop run down the horn where it has dried on the finish.

Have gently tried Dunlop 65, paint thinner, & light plastic tool scraping to no avail.

It doesn't affect playability, nor is it visible but, any ideas on how to remove it without marring the finish?

[tdub0199]

Try putting some goo gone on it and let it soak for a couple of hrs. and then try to wipe it off....

[202dy]

Removing cured CA glue is easy. Super glue solvents are available from every CA manufacturer. Most companies that sell CA also stock solvents. Sometimes they are called "debonders". Stew Mac sells Skin Debonder.

All of the solvents are acetone based. So guess what? Acetone works just great, too. You can purchase a gallon of it at the Large Home Center on the Four Lane for about the same price as four ounces from a mail order luthiery supply. Smaller quantities are available.

The caveat here is that acetone and CA solvents will also remove a nitro finish quicker than you can say skeeter-rada-two-da-four-da-seedus. Always know the finish before you start. Or test the solvent on something that won't show, like over spray in the neck pocket or pickup rout.

All other solvents will result in a spectacular failure to budge even a few molecules of CA from the part. You would be better served to sand the glue from the finish.

[joeyl]

Originally Posted by 202dy

Removing cured CA glue is easy. Super glue solvents are available from every CA manufacturer. Most companies that sell CA also stock solvents. Sometimes they are called "debonders". Stew Mac sells Skin Debonder.

All of the solvents are acetone based. So guess what? Acetone works just great, too. You can purchase a gallon of it at the Large Home Center on the Four Lane for about the same price as four ounces from a mail order luthiery supply. Smaller quantities are available.

The caveat here is that acetone and CA solvents will also remove a nitro finish quicker than you can say skeeter-rada-two-da-four-da-seedus. Always know the finish before you start. Or test the solvent on something that won't show, like over spray in the neck pocket or pickup rout.

All other solvents will result in a spectacular failure to budge even a few molecules of CA from the part. You would be better served to sand the glue from the finish.

+1. If your finish is modern polyester, which I think it is, acetone would be a good remover. test a hidden area first

[P. Aaron]

Originally Posted by joeyl

+1. If your finish is modern polyester, which I think it is, acetone would be a good remover. test a hidden area first

I appreciate the advice...what's funny is this; the Precision V is great outta the box, the Jaco-Knock-Off has gotten all my attention 'cause it's fretless and has these small quirks to work out.

[202dy]

Originally Posted by P. Aaron

I appreciate the advice...what's funny is this; the Precision V is great outta the box, the Jaco-Knock-Off has gotten all my attention 'cause it's fretless and has these small quirks to work out.

You are welcome.

[P. Aaron]

Anyone ever try cutting the acetone down w/paint thinner or somesuch to slow the finish scarring process?

[walterw]

skip the acetone, it will dissolve the finish as well as the superglue.

what you want is nitromethane. it dissolves superglue while leaving poly finishes alone. (it'll still wreck nitro, though.)

i found nitromethane superglue remover at the hobby shop.

stew-mac sold it for a while, then switched over to acetone, changing the name of the product from "superglue remover" to "superglue skin de-bonder". this change reflects the fact that the stuff is no longer safe to use on the guitar, only on your fingers.

[thebisch]

There is no way in heck that acetone will do ANYTHING to a modern Squier body finish. It will, however, remove the logo from at least a Affinity and Squier Standard series quite nicely.

[walterw]

it'll melt the pickguard, so i'd venture to guess that it will melt the finish, too.

[elgecko]

Wow! What is "Buy one bass, get one free" day or something?

[Zentner]

I'll start by saying- Paul Wilczynski wrote this guide on superglue. HE IS A FREAKING GENIUS!

I got superglue all over my 1968 Ric finish. I was not stoked. I followed this exactly and WOW my bass looks better than before. I'll say- some of the products Paul talks about are NOT easy to find, but they work perfectly!



This stuff sticks like, erm, glue, onto conversion varnish.

You need to sand it off, buff the area, and wax it.

SAND using a small (1" X 1/2" or so) HARD block--I useblocks made of 1/8" thick plexiglas, but one of wood will work, too. But it must be small, as the smaller the area you dull and flatten by sanding, the less area you'll have to buff back to a mirror shine.

Use #1000 Wet or Dry sandpaper, wetted down with a 50/50 mixture of Windex and water, or a soapy water solution. 1000 can be found at larger hardware and home centers, or your local paint store. Don't use anything coarser--it will scratch or could even wear the varnish down to the maple.

Sand the glued area flat with the surrounding varnish.

WAIT a couple of days to allow the sanded area to de-gas. The super glue softens the varnish, and allowing it to harden again after it's been sanded back will give a better shine.

RUB with a good fine white liquid polishing compound--a paste compound is too aggressive. Best is 3M Perfect-It III or Perfect-It 3000 (TRAK Auto, etc, available in 8 oz. bottles). Use a soft cotton cloth or diaper. Synthetics scratch.

RUB AGAIN with Meguiar's Swirl-X (formerly Scratch-X)

WAX with Zymol Cleaner Wax (light blue plastic bottle).

It should be noted that if you have to buy all the stuff noted here, you won't get much change back from $40.00...this could be an expensive lesson, but he same materials can be used to keep your Rick and other instruments in prime condition for years to come.

Hope this helps!! You can thank Paul at the RickResource forum if this works...

[Caca de Kick]

I always sand it down smooth and polish it out. I won't touch any finshes with solvents.

[vejesse]

I've had success with this stuff marketed by a company called Golden West. Nitroalkanes based super solvent. It's commonly available. It won't affect poly/catalyzed finishes but takes off superglue very well.

Some nitro lacquers seems to be more durable than others - some finishes melt immediately while others are pretty resistant. Sometimes you can even sort of "french polish" with the solvent to remove imbedded dirt, oxidation or moisture damage in the lacquer.

[P. Aaron]

Originally Posted by elgecko

Wow! What is "Buy one bass, get one free" day or something?

I also got a a hardshell case & a set of Low-riders-5. I am a longtime customer who has bought some high-ticket items retail.

Lately, I have been more aggressive when buying new...especially including 'on the floor' inventory. I set a dollar amount and say; "...work it all into this price". They're good guys at this GC (Southfield, MI) and always work with me.

Originally Posted by Zentner

It should be noted that if you have to buy all the stuff noted here, you won't get much change back from $40.00...this could be an expensive lesson, but he same materials can be used to keep your Rick and other instruments in prime condition for years to come.

Hope this helps!! You can thank Paul at the RickResource forum if this works...

Funny, the cost to remove the gunk from the used Indo-Jazz-Jaco-Knock-Off is a 3rd of the cost of the I-J-J-K-O. Sounds like some excellent advice. Thanks again!

[202dy]

Originally Posted by walterw

skip the acetone, it will dissolve the finish as well as the superglue.

what you want is nitromethane. it dissolves superglue while leaving poly finishes alone. (it'll still wreck nitro, though.)

i found nitromethane superglue remover at the hobby shop.

stew-mac sold it for a while, then switched over to acetone, changing the name of the product from "superglue remover" to "superglue skin de-bonder". this change reflects the fact that the stuff is no longer safe to use on the guitar, only on your fingers.

Kudos.

I remember the old superglue remover from Stew Mac. It had a slippery feel to it. It didn't have an acetone odor, either. After looking up nitromethane it turns out that it is the preferred solvent for CA glues. It is also what is used for fuel in Top Fuel Drag Racing. Next trip past the hobby shop will include some nitromethane on the receipt.

As far as acetone affecting poly finishes goes, I've never noticed a problem. However, it might be time to revisit the subject. Test on scrap.

To those who are new to using CA glues there is one major caveat. Never place a bottle of CA glue on your bench before placing the bottle of solvent first. Sooner or later-and probably sooner-you will need the solvent. It will be cold comfort to see the bottle on the other side of the room.

[thebisch]

Bad venture on that guess, at least with the finish on the Squier body.

Originally Posted by walterw

it'll melt the pickguard, so i'd venture to guess that it will melt the finish, too.

[walterw]

Originally Posted by 202dy

After looking up nitromethane it turns out that it is the preferred solvent for CA glues. It is also what is used for fuel in Top Fuel Drag Racing. Next trip past the hobby shop will include some nitromethane on the receipt.

i learned that it's used to fuel model cars as well, so i went to my local hobbytown, usa looking for it. turns out that all their fuels with the stuff are cut with oil for legal reasons, as it's apparently good for making bombs or something. that's also why stew-mac stopped carrying it.

(the salesman let me walk in disappointment without mentioning the little bottles sitting on the front counter specifically formulated as superglue remover )

[NicJimBass]

ZOMBIE THREAD!!!

Had an incident this past week... got a used bass in the mail, had a portion of finish that was going to chip off, so I decided to super glue it back in place. That worked fine, but somewhere along the line, I grabbed a paper towel that had the tube of glue stuck to it. When the paper towel was over the bass body, a ton of glue came out and got all over the back on the bass. I was freaking out!!! Tried nail polish remover, goo-gone and some other stuff, but nothing took it off. On the recommendation of a friend, I bought some pure acetone from Home Depot... it worked awesome! Took a little elbow grease, but the glue came off, and the finish was untouched. The bass is a Peavey US Millennium, made around 2001, so it's a modern finish, not sure what exactly, but polyester comes to mind for some reason. Definitely test it out before using a bunch.

[walterw]

Originally Posted by NicJimBass

ZOMBIE THREAD!!!

Good, because it gives me an excuse to re-visit my previous answer.

Turns out that yes, many modern poly finishes are indeed immune to acetone. (as always, test in a hidden spot first.)