removing trussrod...help

cofibreyk · #1 12-27-2007, 11:10 PM

help need your suggestions...
I would replace my trussrod with a bigger one it has trouble straightening my neck when using heavy gauge strings. i removed the f/board but the trussrod is under the maple neck, and i think squier inserted the rod from the back of the neck? as you can see in the pictures. so how do i remove the trussrod?...chisel away a little from the top of the neck near the bolt of the trussrod so that i could may be slip off the rod? or should i go from the back of the neck, remove the line of wood covering the rod? ....and how do i go about with any of your suggestions... thanks and Happy New Year from the Philippines!!!!

www.coffeebreakisland.com

cofibreyk · #2 12-27-2007, 11:15 PM

....the neck looks dirty with the dry glue, have'nt cleaned it yet.

John Wentzien · #3 12-27-2007, 11:38 PM

What about putting in a couple of graphite stiffening rods. You can get them at Stewmac.com... just rout a channel on each side of the truss-rod..

John Wentzien · #4 12-27-2007, 11:51 PM

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Truss_ro...bon_Fiber.html
Here's the link

cofibreyk · #5 12-27-2007, 11:55 PM

i'm kinda diy guy...and i don't have the dough to buy from stewmac. lol.
now about the routing a channel, is it possible with a chisel? ..hmm
i think i have to carve out a little just above the truss if i'm gonna replace it with a better one. thanks for the reply John

cofibreyk · #6 12-28-2007, 12:00 AM

i'll try to find if there's carbon graphite available here locally...what kind of shops use graphite? maybe i can buy one from them raw.

John Wentzien · #7 12-28-2007, 12:07 AM

Steel might work also (a little heavy). I'm sure any machine shop or welding shop would have some on hand cheap.

teej · #8 12-28-2007, 10:03 AM

I get my graphite rods from a seller on eBay (bikeschnell), but you should also check your local hobby shops -- they're used to make professional stunt kites. They're sold in 48" lengths, so you only need one rod. Just cut it in half with a Dremel and voila... now you have two!

**Rodent** · #9 12-28-2007, 10:24 AM

to the OP:

I'm not sure why you think you need a 'stronger' trussrod ... I use a single trussrod in my 5-string necks, and it never has any difficulties keeping the proper relief - even with the heaviest strings. I suspect that you may be victim of less than optimal trussrod adjustment techniques, and that proper manipulation of the neck prior to tightening the trussrod would have yielded excellent results if you hadn't taken your neck apart

my recommendation at this point: re-assemble your neck as is. in the future learn to make adjustments to the neck first and then tighten the slack in the trussrod to hold the adjustment. tightening of the trussrod should not be used as a means to force the neck into submission ... this will only lead to bad things happening when you expect it not

all the best,

R

bassgod0dmw · #10 12-28-2007, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rodent

snip

+1 to that. I'd like to add that "chiseling away" at the neck could lead to much worse problems. Stability, tuning, warped fretboard, etc.

What were you planning on using as a stringer truss rod anyways? I've got a few at home...and they are all exactly the same diameter. With the exception of my Hotrod...it's a dual action rod.

When you glue that fretboard back on, make sure both surfaces are totally flat & level before you glue. Get all of the old glue off, and clamp it roughly every 2-3 inches.

cofibreyk · #11 12-28-2007, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rodent

to the OP:

I'm not sure why you think you need a 'stronger' trussrod ... I use a single trussrod in my 5-string necks, and it never has any difficulties keeping the proper relief - even with the heaviest strings. I suspect that you may be victim of less than optimal trussrod adjustment techniques, and that proper manipulation of the neck prior to tightening the trussrod would have yielded excellent results if you hadn't taken your neck apart

my recommendation at this point: re-assemble your neck as is. in the future learn to make adjustments to the neck first and then tighten the slack in the trussrod to hold the adjustment. tightening of the trussrod should not be used as a means to force the neck into submission ... this will only lead to bad things happening when you expect it not

all the best,

R

i think i've done the "optimal trussrod adjustment". the trussrod already bottomed out but still i couldnt get the right action. compared to my other japanese bass, which has a larger diameter truss based on the allen i use on it to adjust, this squier has a smaller diameter rod. the other bass that has a larger rod, i can adjust the action/stiffness properly.

the local luthier here suggested replacing the t/r with his own diy dual t/r, the one he uses on his guitars/basses. ....but i like to do things on my own

, bad me. ....

i've already chiseld carefully the channel where the t/r runs( i can't wait)...
i'll update on what happens, hopefully there'll be no stability, warping problems etc...

i'll search for that graphite rod if i can get it locally...

thanks for all the suggestions

btw what's the diameter of an ordinary t/r used by manufacturers? this bass is made in korea squier, compared to my japanese which has a bigger t/r..

theshadow2001 · #12 12-28-2007, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rodent

to the OP:
proper manipulation of the neck prior to tightening the trussrod would have yielded excellent results if you hadn't taken your neck apart
R

What do you mean by this? I thought you tighten or loosen the truss rod in order to manipulate the neck.

dman_113 · #13 12-28-2007, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theshadow2001

What do you mean by this? I thought you tighten or loosen the truss rod in order to manipulate the neck.

OK, I'm sure I will not explain this so great but here we go. You straighten the neck out lets say on some sort of fixture, then when the neck is where you want it you take up the slack in the truss rod that this has created.

cofibreyk · #14 12-28-2007, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dman_113

.... then when the neck is where you want it you take up the slack in the truss rod that this has created.

how?? can you explain further...

theshadow2001 · #15 12-28-2007, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dman_113

OK, I'm sure I will not explain this so great but here we go. You straighten the neck out lets say on some sort of fixture, then when the neck is where you want it you take up the slack in the truss rod that this has created.

It's a valid approach but it's not something that I've ever heard of before. It's always been adjust the truss rod, maybe give the neck a little push to help it get into position. Leave the neck settle and see how it is then. Would you do this only for drastic neck adjustments?

EADG mx · #16 12-29-2007, 12:18 AM

here's a question:

when tightening, are you pushing on the headstock to help the neck straighten?

if not, this could be why you're not seeing very good results.. just saying

cofibreyk · #17 12-29-2007, 03:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EADG mx

here's a question:

when tightening, are you pushing on the headstock to help the neck straighten?

if not, this could be why you're not seeing very good results.. just saying

i've done this... i also tried before regular gauge strings(.45)
and the action can be set medium low, but i could feel that the neck still has a lot of relief in the middle of the neck...then after a day, it goes back to a lot more higher action. ive also tried resting the neck w/o tension on the rod, after a couple of days putting back the strings and adjusting action..but still the same...

i'll measure the diameter of the rod after i've taken it out

69nites · #18 12-29-2007, 03:40 AM

sounds to me like you've compressed the wood that the truss rod nut presses against.

you need to throw a washer in there and stop making adjustments under tension.

cofibreyk · #19 12-29-2007, 05:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69nites

sounds to me like you've compressed the wood that the truss rod nut presses against.

you need to throw a washer in there and stop making adjustments under tension.

isn't this what its supposed to do? ...i've read about this but i have'nt tried it. it seems to me that that it would end up the same way, the nut would just bottom out earlier coz of the added washer. how does this work? tnx

69nites · #20 12-29-2007, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cofibreyk

isn't this what its supposed to do? ...i've read about this but i have'nt tried it. it seems to me that that it would end up the same way, the nut would just bottom out earlier coz of the added washer. how does this work? tnx

it's supposed to press against it but in this case the wood has actually been compressed(made smaller) and the truss rod has run out of thread. This is the Number one cause IME for people breaking their truss rods by overtightening.

here's a rough drawing of what's happened. The black section of the rod is the threaded portion. If you just had the nut on there and you tried to tighten you'd have no pressure on the neck before hitting the end of your threads. By putting a washer you back up the nut on the threads so you can make adjustment.

it's exaggerated to make it easier to see.