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  #1  
Old 04-27-2008, 04:43 AM
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Repainting my bass - the best way?

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Ok, I bought a really crappy Squire P-Bass on ebay (yeah, I know) for a project. I want to repaint it Flat Black (gothic), before I trash it and make it look worn and burnt. I will add a black pick guard of course.

So, what is the best method. I have already stripped it down to the components so I am ready to go.
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  #2  
Old 04-27-2008, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by kyral210 View Post
Ok, I bought a really crappy Squire P-Bass on ebay (yeah, I know) for a project. I want to repaint it Flat Black (gothic), before I trash it and make it look worn and burnt. I will add a black pick guard of course.

So, what is the best method. I have already stripped it down to the components so I am ready to go.
Seeing that you're just going to trash it after, repaint it with flat black paint. Then add a black pickguard.
  #3  
Old 04-27-2008, 06:44 PM
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Whats the best flat black paint to use? Just normal spray paint, plastic coat? metal coat? automotive (allow of people use this, is it good?).

The main reason I want a good coat is because although I will trash it, I don't want the paint coming off and exposing the ugly blue underneath.
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Old 04-27-2008, 11:22 PM
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Wait, what? Blue underneath? You have to strip and sand the paint off before you even think of putting another colour on.
  #5  
Old 04-28-2008, 02:03 AM
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Ahh! So sand off and then use Automotive paint to spray on?
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by kyral210 View Post
Whats the best flat black paint to use? Just normal spray paint, plastic coat? metal coat? automotive (allow of people use this, is it good?).

The main reason I want a good coat is because although I will trash it, I don't want the paint coming off and exposing the ugly blue underneath.
Okay, I didn't realize you were going for a flawless finish before you trash it. Sand it down to bare wood, then smooth it out with 220 grit sandpaper. Apply a good primer sealer. You will have to apply probably a couple coats, sanding after each with 400 grit. Then automotive flat paint. You'll have to sand this between coats too. When you've got it looking really good you can stop and then start bashing it around. Throw gravel at it, beat it with a piece of chain, drop it down a flight of stairs--anyhow, get creative and come up with a few ideas of your own.
  #7  
Old 04-28-2008, 07:55 AM
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I know Nikki Sixx used to spray his Thunderbirds black, sand them down to make them look dead, and then rub talk/ baby powder on them to make them look old, battered and decaying.

If I finished the black paint, rubbed the baby powder on, and then applied a clear matt finish, would that give the right look, or would the powder just screw things up?
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:00 AM
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I wouldn't use Automotive Paint as it will tend to crack and split with any movements in the wood.

You need to use a Polyurethane Paint which is a bit more 'flexible'.
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  #9  
Old 04-28-2008, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Baker69 View Post
I wouldn't use Automotive Paint as it will tend to crack and split with any movements in the wood.

You need to use a Polyurethane Paint which is a bit more 'flexible'.
Polyurethane paint will work too. Automotive paint that you can buy in Canadian Tire or similar places is fine too. It's not as hard and is more flexible than the stuff the shops use when re painting a car. Many people have used it successfully.

Krylon in spray cans is remarkably good too. I just did some work with their flat black and it's good stuff. Dries ready for the next coat in 15 minutes. You can sand it in an hour or less. Hard enough for use after 24 hours. Work in a warm room (above 70 F). Open a window and set up a fan for ventilation. Don''t breath the fumes. Don't work anywhere near a source of ignition, like sparks from electrical contacts, pilot lights, etc.

I wouldn't trust any advice given by Nikki Sixx.
  #10  
Old 04-28-2008, 03:56 PM
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Lol, yeah Nikki Sixx is a bit of a special case. But his basses always looked cool! I live in the UK, so allot of these brands don't apply over here. I am also a professional design engineer, so i know a little about these things. But then again i am not a luther, so getting the forums advise is always important!
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Old 04-28-2008, 05:05 PM
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the powder will most likey make the clear lift.

I assume from the finish you are going for you either play jazz or country... right?
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  #12  
Old 04-28-2008, 05:54 PM
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  #13  
Old 04-28-2008, 06:10 PM
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if your re painting the bass you'd be better off stripping it down to the wood and starting again as most guitars are painted with nitro cellulose paint which will map if you paint over it (unless you use a sealing primer over the top of the paint)
i good handheld power sander will do the job in 15 min most of the outcome will depend on the prep work (sanding flatting degreasing etc)
there's plenty of ways to finish a guitar Polyurethane is good so is two pack and so is cellulose it all depends what your trying to acheive (i finish my guitars in epoxy as its much harder wearing and doesnt yellow in the sun)
just bear in mind its very hard to acheive a glass finish with an aerosol but not impossible feel free to pm me if you need any help
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Old 04-28-2008, 11:22 PM
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I assume from the finish you are going for you either play jazz or country... right?
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  #15  
Old 04-29-2008, 07:08 AM
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That's country for sure. Isn't that Loretta Lynne on vocals at the Grand Old Opry?
  #16  
Old 04-29-2008, 07:28 AM
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Sand it then paint it red and when its dried add a layer of black.

You scratch, smash, lick it after.

It will look like its bleeding

If thats what you want
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  #17  
Old 04-29-2008, 10:51 AM
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Good luck "sanding" the poly finish off a Squier. You'll have better luck with a chisel, seriously. There's no reason not to just paint right over the original finish especially if you're gonna trash the bass. You'll already have a flat surface for the new paint eliminating the need for the prepping required for bare wood.
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  #18  
Old 04-29-2008, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by sonicvi View Post
Good luck "sanding" the poly finish off a Squier. You'll have better luck with a chisel, seriously. There's no reason not to just paint right over the original finish especially if you're gonna trash the bass. You'll already have a flat surface for the new paint eliminating the need for the prepping required for bare wood.

i would tend to agree here... what you do is scuff the surface (so it's dull) not deeply scratched, for the paint to "bite". no primer, or just use black primer. 3-5 coats? done.
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  #19  
Old 04-29-2008, 11:13 AM
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Get someone else to do it.

Seriously, refinishing done right is a real pain in the ass, especially dealing with poly finishes.
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  #20  
Old 04-29-2008, 11:48 AM
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That's country for sure. Isn't that Loretta Lynne on vocals at the Grand Old Opry?
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