Repairing/re-binding a semi-hollow bass

[dlenaghan]

Hi guys,

I've been looking into a bass recently, a center-blocked semi-hollow which sometime during its life was stripped of its body bindings, which are both front and rear. I don't know enough about semi-hollow construction to know if this is an issue from a build perspective, as the bindings appear to have been replaced with a kind of wood filler.

I also know next to nothing about wood filler, or what it is, save for what Wikipedia and some retail websites have told me, in that it's basically a lacquer/bulk mixture meant to act as an easily-shaped wood replacement for carpentry purposes, frequently in the finishing process.

Would such a bass need long-term attention? Is wood filler a stable element? Do hollowbody basses which are bound need to have something along that beveled edge to support any weight or stress?

And, I'd like to ask anyone who has done or has had a re-binding done, what does work like that cost, ballpark figure? I intend on asking a few reputable dealers, but it's something I'm totally in the dark about so I'd really appreciate anyone with relevant experience to weigh in.

Thanks a million, guys.

[SurferJoe46]

Wood dough or putty won't work well as it's fraught with expansion/contraction non-similarities compared to the body.

A better choice would be Bondo or another brand of automotive body filler. I've used it totally successfully to add to or change the profile of wood in my basses quite a few times.

But - and you weren't clear here - is this instrument going to be clear coated or a solid color surface?

If clear coat and it warrants it, then binding is better, as either repair will show through the finish.

If an opaque color, then anything goes - even binding if you work it right.

I didn't find my experiences with binding to be too technically impossible, but I've not bound a body yet - only a head stock. Frankly it is touted as a black-art and I don't think it is.

So-called 'luthiers' will want to say it's impossible for a non-trained artisan to do well, if at all. I feel if one human did it, so can I.

There are some tools that will need to be acquired, but not prohibitively expensive or so, as they can also be used for many other stages of guitar work as well as other hobbyist pursuits.

I'd be very suspicious of any person who says that you aren't trained enough or that they, and only they are 'expert' enough for the task and that it took untold years of apprenticeship at the elbow of a German olde master luthier who made them swear to never divulge the secrets of the application.

[202dy]

Originally Posted by dlenaghan

Hi guys,

I've been looking into a bass recently, a center-blocked semi-hollow which sometime during its life was stripped of its body bindings, which are both front and rear. I don't know enough about semi-hollow construction to know if this is an issue from a build perspective, as the bindings appear to have been replaced with a kind of wood filler.

I also know next to nothing about wood filler, or what it is, save for what Wikipedia and some retail websites have told me, in that it's basically a lacquer/bulk mixture meant to act as an easily-shaped wood replacement for carpentry purposes, frequently in the finishing process.

Would such a bass need long-term attention? Is wood filler a stable element? Do hollowbody basses which are bound need to have something along that beveled edge to support any weight or stress?

And, I'd like to ask anyone who has done or has had a re-binding done, what does work like that cost, ballpark figure? I intend on asking a few reputable dealers, but it's something I'm totally in the dark about so I'd really appreciate anyone with relevant experience to weigh in.

Thanks a million, guys.

That's a lot of questions!

First and foremost, the purpose of binding is to protect the edge of the guitar from bumps and bruises. It is softer and less brittle than the wood it shelters. It protects the glue joint and the wood by absorbing shock. Its purpose is basically sacrificial. When done well, it can also be ornamental. It is never structural.

Is wood filler stable? It depends on the material. Some will shrink as the material dries. Then it can be considered "stable". Others may continue to shrink for years. Those fillers tend to become brittle. A good blow will cause it to crack. That makes them a poor substitute for binding.

Hollow instruments have interior reinforcement for the top and back. It is attached to the side of the guitar. Typically it is a piece(s) of wood that has small slices (kerfs). This makes the solid wood able to flex into the body curves. The kerfed lining is glued first to the side. Then the top is fitted and glued. That is the structural support for the cabinet. The edge of the guitar is then routed to create a channel or shelf. Then the binding is glued into the shelf.

Rebinding a guitar that has had wood filler applied is a tricky job. First the filler must be removed. It might be as easy as picking it out with an Exacto knife and a chisel. Or it might require a router with a bearing bit installed. Then the channel must be cleaned and any needed repairs completed. After that, new binding can be installed. Finish touch up and buffing follow.

Pricing varies by location and expertise. Installing the binding will should cost a minimum of a couple of dollars per inch including touch up. That is exclusive of any other work to be performed. For reference, a hollow body shape like a 335 will have well over 100" of binding on the top and back. If the filler is difficult to remove expect to be charged for it. If the binding is tall as on a Les Paul it will be more expensive than redoing the straight binding on an acoustic guitar.

[dlenaghan]

Originally Posted by 202dy

Pricing varies by location and expertise. Installing the binding will should cost a minimum of a couple of dollars per inch including touch up. That is exclusive of any other work to be performed. For reference, a hollow body shape like a 335 will have well over 100" of binding on the top and back. If the filler is difficult to remove expect to be charged for it. If the binding is tall as on a Les Paul it will be more expensive than redoing the straight binding on an acoustic guitar.

Yikes.

As for self-done stuff, I've never been much for working with my hands.. though certainly on a less-cherished instrument I might give it a go, or if it was a cheaper bass. (I'm talking about a Guild Starfire here, so go figure...)

Interesting that the binding is meant to be a bumper of sorts. It's already finished in a clear coat, or I should say has been refinished, so aesthetics are not so much of a concern in this case as the wood filler (or whatever it is.. I really wish I had better knowledge of these things..) more or less matches the tone of the original binding, and stands more or less in line with the light maple color of the body anyway.

I appreciate the replies so far, thanks.

[SurferJoe46]

Here's some samples of binding, from Stewart-MacDonald::: (StewMac)

Search results for “binding” at Stewart-MacDonald