Replace Fingerboard - Maine

dirtythirtyix · #1 10-27-2010, 10:21 AM

I have an 1995 Carvin LB75 (fretted) with a maxed-out truss rod. It's playable, but there's still too much relief in the neck. Since it's neck-through and the truss is 2-way, I assume the fingerboard needs to come off for a proper repair.

Ideally I would like a to have a new fretless fingerboard put on, but I have no idea where to go to have this done. Is there anyone in central-southern Maine who would do a repair like this?

rick0link · #2 10-27-2010, 10:30 AM

i'm in a similar situation with my 1996 LB76. i've contacted Carvin and they'll do the job for around $400.00. they'll remove the old board, replace the rod, and put a new board on. given the complexity of the job, it's not a bad deal. plus it'll be Carvin doing the work, so i trust they will do a good job.

BigOldHarry · #3 10-27-2010, 10:39 AM

First, this will NOT be cheap - by a local guy or, as Rick indicated, by Carvin. $400 sounds about right to me.

A central problem here is that a '96 LB76 or a '95 LB75 mght not be worth very much money... You boys might be better off buying replacement basses.

JLS · #4 10-27-2010, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirtythirtyix

I have an 1995 Carvin LB75 (fretted) with a maxed-out truss rod. It's playable, but there's still too much relief in the neck. Since it's neck-through and the truss is 2-way, I assume the fingerboard needs to come off for a proper repair.

Ideally I would like a to have a new fretless fingerboard put on, but I have no idea where to go to have this done. Is there anyone in central-southern Maine who would do a repair like this?

Consider heat treatment. Also, are you the original owner? What's Carvin's warranty, in a situation like this?

mkrtu9 · #5 10-27-2010, 10:46 AM

I am not an expert but some of the glue luthers use is hide glue which can be taken off with extreme heat. If this is the case with carvin I would try it myself first. Heat the glue, take off board, heat the rod glue, take out truss rod, glue new rod and clamp, put old board on glue and clamp. I am probably making this easier sounding than it actually is but if it is going to cost 400 or u end up not using it what could it hurt?

vejesse · #6 10-27-2010, 11:00 AM

Does the truss rod function at all? Does the neck have an upbow even without string tension? If the rod does work but it's not working well because the neck has taken a permanent upbow, you may be able to have the guitar refretted to solve the problem and avoid fingerboard replacement. The idea is to remove wood at both ends of the fingerboard, then fret the neck. The truss rod now doesn't have to work so hard to straighten the neck.

dirtythirtyix · #7 10-28-2010, 09:14 AM

Thanks vejesse. I hadn't thought of that. I'll loosen the strings and take a look.

I'm pretty sure I won't try fixing it myself. I can turn wrenches or melt solder, but woodworking is definitely not my thing.

If I can get it fixed by Carvin for ~$400, I'd probably be pretty happy. It's a lot better than any $400 replacement I'm likely to find!

joenoone · #8 12-27-2010, 02:37 PM

I had gotten a '90s LB76 in the same condition, and have been struggling with a few things...

First, I thought I could put shims in, but as I started to back out the truss rod I heard a "pop". Fearing the worst I gave up.

The next day I came back ("heck, it's broken lets figure it out") and just kept backing out the truss rod. I eventually found there is a square nut with reverse threads that creates the tension that somehow got glued into the carved out area where it set and as it got pushed up when I was backing out the truss rot it split the wood around it.

So, I unscrewed the truss rod out enough that I could spin that nut down lower and then tightened it up again. I adjusted it a few times and got it about right, but the third session of nudging the truss rod a small turn tighter I heard another "pop". What I found is happening is the wood in the channel isn't holding the nut - it is breaking the nut is settling in lower each time. Looking in the truss rod slot it's a wide square so there's not a lot of wood to support the nut.

So, I'm not quite sure what to do next - the truss rod isn't broken but it's not holding either. I was thinking maybe get a small piece of sheet metal and grind out for the truss rod and hammer it in perpendicular to the rod so the nut has something more secure to press against.

Any ideas? Anyone else run into this?

K-Frog · #9 12-28-2010, 01:52 PM

sounds like my old Carvin. i could adjust it to max and get good action, but it would back off over a few weeks and I had to tighten it again. Gave up and sold it on eBay with full disclosure. Loved that bass though.

I have removed one fretboard before. Heated the fretboard with a clothes iron to soften the glue, then start easing a sharp and thin knife through the joint. All was going well and slow until I was within 2" of the nut and the fretboard popped off suddenly and I almost took off the knuckle of my left thumb with the knife.

smoov · #10 12-29-2010, 08:34 PM

I had a complete graphite neck made for my Bunker bass by Moses graphite...cost $600. they completely set it up too. If I was going to replace the frett board...go graphite..it will never wear out, no dead notes and will stiffen the assembly so it will be less affected by weather.