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  #1  
Old 12-08-2011, 10:19 PM
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Replacing my nut, again!

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I had my bass set up a while ago and just went to change strings and learned that the luthier apparently cut the nut to fit the strings I have on it. Now the new strings sink all the way down to the frets. So I had to go out and buy a new nut. The shop had bone which I guess is ok, do you always cut the nut to fit the strings or do you make it generic? I don't want to keep changing the nut every time I change my strings. Thanks for the input - I'm no luthier by any sense of the word.
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  #2  
Old 12-08-2011, 10:21 PM
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huh?

are you sure it wasn't just a neck adjustment problem, from the new strings having less tension?

the nut doesn't need to be replaced with string changes.
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  #3  
Old 12-09-2011, 07:58 AM
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It sounds like the nut was cut too low by your tech. Nut replacements are fairly inexpensive. Pay 50 bucks and have someone do it for you, if you don't have the experience or tools to do it yourself.

As far as cutting nuts to strings. If you have a bass that you use the same strings on all the time, you can definitely cut to fit that particular set of strings. Most of the time the nut is cut a bit higher and wider to accommodate many different kinds of strings. Once a nut is cut, you shouldnt have to do anything with it for many many many years.

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  #4  
Old 12-09-2011, 09:15 AM
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Did you also change string gauges? He may have cut the nut to fit the gauge of the strings you had on previously.
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  #5  
Old 12-09-2011, 11:35 AM
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This is the reason why I have learned to cut nuts with a somewhat "V" shape (please see the "favorite tech tip" thread) rather than a sharp "U" - as a "U" may not offer the design implementation for string size variance.
However there can certainly be other reasons for this issue you describe as string have variance in tuned tension & that should always be kept in mind. There are manufacturers that offer tuned tension levels printed on the package of strings. This can be very useful prior to replacement of your old strings. However it's important to remember that [the tension] exists for that one manufacturer & other designs may have other levels of tension.
  #6  
Old 12-09-2011, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john grey View Post
This is the reason why I have learned to cut nuts with a somewhat "V" shape (please see the "favorite tech tip" thread) rather than a sharp "U" - as a "U" may not offer the design implementation for string size variance.
However there can certainly be other reasons for this issue you describe as string have variance in tuned tension & that should always be kept in mind. There are manufacturers that offer tuned tension levels printed on the package of strings. This can be very useful prior to replacement of your old strings. However it's important to remember that [the tension] exists for that one manufacturer & other designs may have other levels of tension.
In a perfect world you should cut your nuts properly to match your string choices and it should be cut to the right height and to the right width. Of course if you haven't found your strings yet, you could run in to problems. I'd never cut a V shape though, I'd just cut the cut a bit higher.

There are numerous issues with cutting a V, such as binding, inconsistent setups, buzzing, rattling, etc. You might not have run into them, but they are possible.
  #7  
Old 12-09-2011, 01:46 PM
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yeah, a round string sitting in a V-notch is a recipe for grabbing and binding.

it's also a recipe for thinner strings sitting lower than thicker ones, making string-height at the nut hard to control.

you want a U slot, actually more of an O cut in half, that's just bigger than the string gauge. if you go to a smaller string, the string will still sit at the same height off the nut, and will still be centered in the round bottom.

the round slot would only need to be altered if you go to a significantly bigger string, and you could still usually then go right back to the strings you had before.
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  #8  
Old 12-10-2011, 09:40 AM
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There are no real boutique type stores where I live. I would be very interested in what many builders have integrated over the years. I would (almost) bet a lunch that custom builders do not use a sharp, deep "U"; it's too restrictive to string change.
  #9  
Old 12-10-2011, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john grey View Post
There are no real boutique type stores where I live. I would be very interested in what many builders have integrated over the years. I would (almost) bet a lunch that custom builders do not use a sharp, deep "U"; it's too restrictive to string change.
The thing is, no one is looking for a sharp deep "U" when cutting nuts. Where are you getting that idea from?
  #10  
Old 12-10-2011, 10:27 AM
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But still.....
Unless horribly cut, regardless of the string size for which it was originally cut, newer strings would not sit lower.
The bottom of the cut doesn't change.
The only way this situation could occur would be if the nut were cut wrong, and the first strings never made it to the bottom, correct?
So I think it was just cut incorrectly. A good tech/shop should be able to recognize that and may want to fix it for free.
Is the nut loose? Like maybe there was a shim under it that fell out?
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  #11  
Old 12-10-2011, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by willsellout View Post
Nut replacements are fairly inexpensive.
The nut is one of the cheapest parts on your bass.
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  #12  
Old 12-10-2011, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ric5 View Post
The nut is one of the cheapest parts on your bass.
I was referring to having someone replace it, not the part itself.
  #13  
Old 12-10-2011, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by willsellout View Post
I was referring to having someone replace it, not the part itself.
What am I missing? He agreed with you.
???
Even having someone cut a new nut is like $30 here in CA. Pretty cheap.
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  #14  
Old 12-12-2011, 10:06 PM
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Buy or pay for a better nut and have someone else install and cut it for slots. Sounds like the person you've been using isnt very good and may well be using super cheap nuts.
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  #15  
Old 12-12-2011, 10:15 PM
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yeah, the part is cheap, but a properly-done nut installation is critical to both playability and tuning stability. (it's more important than the quality of the keys, put it that way.)

i wouldn't go to the cheapest guy around for this.
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  #16  
Old 12-12-2011, 10:20 PM
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Get ahold of Dickhead designs and have him cut you a brass nut. He does great work, reasonable, fast, and proceeds go to charity. I have heard nothing but good things about his work.
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  #17  
Old 12-12-2011, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walterw View Post
...quality of the keys...
???
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  #18  
Old 12-12-2011, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foamy View Post
???
Walter was referring to the tuning keys which are often blamed for tuning instability when the real culprit is the nut.
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  #19  
Old 12-13-2011, 12:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by testing1two View Post
Walter was referring to the tuning keys which are often blamed for tuning instability when the real culprit is the nut.
OK
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  #20  
Old 12-13-2011, 12:10 AM
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I prefer bone as a nut material to brass. But I will admit that may mostly be in my head
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