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Originally Posted by rkmullen Removing ANY fingerboard is best left to a professional with the proper tools(easy for me to say, I'm a professional)you need an 3/8 in thick special made aluminum block(which I make myself for different lengths)the length of the fingerboard, a dissassemble knlfe, a surface thermometer(stew-mac)and a hot plate. first start by heating the aluminum block to between 200-250 degrees(safe temp), when its at the proper temp, brush some water on the fingerboard and carefully place the block on the fingerboard(oh, did I mention the oven mitts?) it starts hissing, creating steam(doing it this way ONLY steams the fingerboard, and its best to heat the whole fingerboard at once, when you do one section of the board at a time, the heating and prying warps it) it mostly takes about 3-4, times of water then hot block for the glue to start to soften, then starting at the nut end(after removing it, and fender types, the heel end)start CAREFULLY slipping the knife under the board till it comes loose, and your done! |
I agree that it safer to have a FB removed professionally. I don't agree that removing a FB is not a legitemate option for the more advanced DIYer. I have removed several fingerboards using a laundry iron and knife and I haven't warped the first neck using the method. The most damage that I have done is to the inlays and so long as the inlays are simple dot inlays, they are very easy to replace. Abalone dots can just be reglued. Plastic will curl and be unusable but replacements are very cheap.
If I hadn't hadn't worked out the method that I use by removing the FBs from beater instruments, I wouldn't attempt to remove one from a high dollar or boutique instrument. Magni is using the same method, apparently with no problem.
I was recently given an old ('56) Harmony hollow body bass with a broken TR. It would not have been worth saving if I'd had to have the work professionally done. I was not only able to remove the FB, I was also able to repair the old truss rod.
I ended up with a pretty neat old bass that otherwise would have ended up in the scrap pile. The bonus is that I have nothing invested in the bass.
If i were going to use steam to remove the FB, I would first start the the FB separation with dry heat and then use a steam source and a needle to apply the steam directly to the glue joint. To drive the steam through the FB means that the wood would have to be saturated before any steam could reach the glue joint. If the swollen wood didn't raise the frets, I would be surprised. They, of course, could be driven or pressed back into place but it's a step that is avoided by using dry heat.
Not to mention how long it would take to get the moisture through a maple FB. Very dense wood with a moisture impervious finish.
I'm not arguing that your way wont work. You use the method and it works for you. There is more than one way to skin a cat, though.
By the way, I'm no longer a professional but I was for nearly thirty years before I retired.
Please understand that my post is intended to be friendly disagreement. I would never say that any of my methods are better than yours. Just another way of doing the same thing.
