Replacing truss rods on a Rick 4003, but they wont come out! Help!

Renard · #1 12-27-2008, 10:44 AM

Hello all,

I'm currently attempting to replace the truss rods in my 4003 bass from 2005 or so. I've got the neck clamped and have been trying to tap out the truss rods, but there is A LOT of friction. I've got them about halfway into the neck pickup cavity, but they still don't have much play in them.

Is this normal? I was under the impression that you could easily tap them out and then pull them the rest of the way. I've been working them in and out of the neck, and they've been getting easier, but not beyond the original distance halfway into the neck pickup cavity. I've been using a 1/8ths rod to tap the truss rods out, as a 3/16ths did not fit into the truss rod holes even after the metal 'brace' was removed.

What would you all suggest I do? My house is VERY dry at the moment, so I don't think its swelled due to humidity. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Is there some sort of lube I could use safely?

Thanks very much!

dreadheadbass · #2 12-27-2008, 10:59 AM

i took mine out via the headstock not the pickup cavity i tapped them as far out as i could using a screwdriver then just pulled them straight out with my fingers
have you tried slackening off the truss nuts so there's no tension on them?

have you checked rickenbackers website? or googled it? i'm not sure which way out there supposed to come like i said i took mine out through the headstock but i dont know if thats the correct way of doing it

Renard · #3 12-27-2008, 11:01 AM

Thanks for the reply! I have indeed checked the Rickenbacker website and I'm following the directions given by folks on the forums there. I posted the same message there as well about my issue, but their forums aren't always too lively. The nuts are off of the rods at both ends. My theory is the paper covering of the rods may have come off and bunched up in there or something.

dreadheadbass · #4 12-27-2008, 11:04 AM

thats the reason i took mine out there's not as much tape on them as you think plus with yours only being a 2005 model i'd expect the tape to still be in good order mine was a 4001 1970 something model so i guess it was well bedded in why are you removing the rods anyway?

Ric5 · #5 12-27-2008, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Renard

Hello all,

I'm currently attempting to replace the truss rods in my 4003 bass from 2005 or so. I've got the neck clamped and have been trying to tap out the truss rods, but there is A LOT of friction. I've got them about halfway into the neck pickup cavity, but they still don't have much play in them.

Is this normal? I was under the impression that you could easily tap them out and then pull them the rest of the way. I've been working them in and out of the neck, and they've been getting easier, but not beyond the original distance halfway into the neck pickup cavity. I've been using a 1/8ths rod to tap the truss rods out, as a 3/16ths did not fit into the truss rod holes even after the metal 'brace' was removed.

What would you all suggest I do? My house is VERY dry at the moment, so I don't think its swelled due to humidity. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Is there some sort of lube I could use safely?

Thanks very much!

Remove the screws from both ends of the rods and try to pull them out through the neck slot.

Wood shrinks when it is dry it swells when it absorbs moisture. You should get a humidfier and run it and try to never let the humidity level below 20%. Above 35% is better.

As per lubrication a little wax could help.

You don't need to clamp the neck to remove the rods. I removed the rods on a 4003s5 and replaced them. They came out fairly easy. The big thing was I didn't want to scratch up the bass and damage the finish.

If you are anywhere near Denver then bring it by my house and I will help you.

Ric5 · #6 12-27-2008, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dreadheadbass

thats the reason i took mine out there's not as much tape on them as you think plus with yours only being a 2005 model i'd expect the tape to still be in good order mine was a 4001 1970 something model so i guess it was well bedded in why are you removing the rods anyway?

The old 4001 rods were completely different then the 4003 rods.

beelzelboss · #7 12-27-2008, 12:25 PM

well, you say you have it clamped down, but is it actually straight? (the neck) because if its bowed and your trying to take out something that is straight, i'm sure that won't be too easy.

Renard · #8 12-27-2008, 03:15 PM

Thanks for the help everyone! I actually didnt try taking the rods out via the neck, I'll do so tomorrow. As to why I'm replacing them, I gave the bass to a friend to set up for me. I didnt know the Rick truss rod system was any different from normal, and neither did he, so he snapped the nut off the end. My fault really, as I should have known my bass operated differently.

Again, thanks! It'll be great to get this thing back in action

Ric5 · #9 12-27-2008, 06:03 PM

Rickenbacker says that taking the rods out through the neck is the "correct" way. I removed mine through the body. If the strings are removed and the rods are not tightened then there is no need to try to make sure the neck is clamped straight.

On old 4001 basses to adjust the rods you loosen the strings and loosen the truss rod nuts and then adjust the neck straight and then tighten the rods. On the newer 4003 basses adjusting the rods actually moves the neck like most other basses. Improperly adjusting the old 4001 rods will crack the neck and pop off the fretboard. The new 4003 basses it is almost impossible to hurt the neck by adjusting the rods. The end of the rod will sheer before the neck gets damaged.

But do try to keep your basses in an environment where the humidity is below 90% and above 34%. Actually 35% is perfect for Maple.