Restoring an Hagstrom, need some help

[arny]

Hey everybody,

I purchased an old Hagstrom HIIB yesterday from some dude who looked exactly like Elliott Smith.. It wasn't in great condition, and we did the sale in a parking lot-so I wasn't able to plug it in. If I had I wouldn't have paid the $450 I did..

Anyway the bass is playable, but the switches are shot. The feel of the bass is great though, really solid feel. So to make this thing reliable it needs some TLC.



I'm going to need to replace the 250K pot because it shorts, and I should probably replace all the switches as well because most of them don't do anything or short out. Anyone know where I can get some white switches that will fit this bass?




The neck is good, no big dings and the finish is still there. The tuners could use some cleaning up, but I don't know how, and I'm scared to take steel wool to them. Any suggestions on getting the grime off of them and what kind of lube I should use when they go back on? The back of them look like brass..



I did however clean up the other metal parts(bridge, jack plate, neck plate, PU holders) with steel wool and they were fine. I feel like they could use some finer cleaning still.



Can anyone date this bebe from the serial? 700012







I went over it all with some warm sudsy water, and it definitely helped. I heard naphtha works wonders as well for getting the grime off the finish..

So the rundown:
I need to make this thing reliable, replacing the electronics are a must. Both pickups work fine.

I need to find replacement parts for the switches and pot. I know radioshack probably has them both, but I'll opt for quality rather than rush into getting this thing done. Any suggestions? Any idea on the year? Thanks guys!

[202dy]

Cool bass.

The HIIB was manufactured between 1963 and 1970. A quick google search (under a minute) places the serial number (probably) in the later portion.

If at all possible, do not replace anything. Clean the pot and the switches with Deoxit. Spray the product into the pot and rotate the knob in both directions for a minute. Then test it again. The protocol is similar for the switches. Sometimes there is an open portion on the side of these switches. Failing that, spray Deoxit on the top of the switch. The product will wick down into the switch. Run the knob back and forth for a minute. Repeat for each switch. Then test the electronics.

If cleaning does not remedy the situation, Stewart MacDonald has the pot and switches. Radio Shack stocks very little of interest for guitar repair.

As far as cleaning the chrome, steel wool tends to leave big scratches. Unless there is major rust, chrome and metal polishes are less abrasive.

Tuners do not require lubrication. It usually creates more problems than it solves. Liquid lubes tend to get into the headstock swelling the wood. The wood constricts the movement of the tuner shaft. Grease and oils are messy and attract dirt and grit. If one insists on lubrication, graphite or similar dry lubricant can be used.

Naphtha will remove most anything that soapy water does not. Follow with a damp rag to degrease before polishing.

[Pilgrim]

^ To quote Boon from Animal House, "Better listen to him, Flounder, he's in pre-med."

The man knoweth that of which he speaketh.

[arny]

Thanks a lot guys.

I definitely want to keep the original parts as much as possible, and hopefully Deoxit will get them back in working order. Some of the switches (not all) have one side open from the top, I thought that was odd but I figured they had just broken off somehow.

Good tips on the tuners as well. I was told the bass was in storage before I bought it (the guy had the strings tuned all the way down), so I figure some good playing on the bass will loosen it up a little bit with some time.

Everything on this bass feels solid, some well done workmanship was definitely put into this little guy; can't wait to play it some more.

[Thornton Davis]

arny, you were asking when your bass was made. I can tell you that it was made in 1966, in production run number 700 which produced a total of 999 HIIB basses.

Yours was the 12th one made in the run. Actually run 700 started in 1966 and finished in 1967, but since your bass has such a low serial number it was definately made in 66.

Enjoy

TD

[john grey]

In Los Angles look to HAM Radio outlets for Deoxit.

[Fly Guitars]

Those old Hagstrom switches do get finicky over the years.

Every time I pick up one of my Hagstroms (with those switches) I give each 10 seconds on/off switching - do this regularly enough and they will work a lot better.

Yes you will have to take all the screws out and use switch cleaner, but it is a hassle - in my experience they soon get crackly again after a few weeks of non-use, so flick those switches as often as you can.

And DONT take them apart trying to clean inside - they are 99% impossible to get back together!

[underaroof]

Originally Posted by Fly Guitars

Those old Hagstrom switches do get finicky over the years.

Every time I pick up one of my Hagstroms (with those switches) I give each 10 seconds on/off switching - do this regularly enough and they will work a lot better.

Yes you will have to take all the screws out and use switch cleaner, but it is a hassle - in my experience they soon get crackly again after a few weeks of non-use, so flick those switches as often as you can.

And DONT take them apart trying to clean inside - they are 99% impossible to get back together!

Hey thanks, I ended up wiping everything clean then spraying Deoxit in all the contacts, and they all came clean! I play it a little everyday and it hasn't gotten worse yet.

Thanks a lot for the advice everyone else, bass plays good now. The only problem is I put regular .105-.045 long scale strings on after I cleaned it (couldn't wait to play it) and the intonation is pretty sharp above the 12th fret. I started a thread here about it because the wood bridge.

(P.S. This is my thread, I made a new account due part of the inane name I chose as a 15 yr old in 2004. heh)