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  #1  
Old 02-15-2009, 12:41 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: NJ
RIC guys - zymol question

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Hey Ric guys, I have a kind of weird situation with the zymol on my Jetglo. It's been over a year since I waxed it. It seems like the wax dried out, because I can accidentally chip off small pieces of dried wax with a fingernail.

Re-applying zymol doesn't dissolve the old dried wax. So how would I dissolve it to get a smooth re-wax?

thx
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  #2  
Old 02-15-2009, 12:55 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Halifax, NS, Canada
Newbie questions

Might be an answer in there Mitch.
  #3  
Old 02-15-2009, 01:06 PM
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Location: NJ
Interesting... I've used naptha to clean a grimy fretboard but never to dissolve wax. And since RIC's conversion varnish is a unique finishing process, I'll wait for some more information before rolling the dice
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  #4  
Old 02-15-2009, 01:30 PM
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Not really sure about specifics, but rics finish is very close to automotive paint and most things that would remove old wax from your car would do it for the bass.

Also I polish mine with Turtle Wax Ice liquid polish. It takes a while to buff, but it works very well and doesn't leave any waxy stuff behind, even along the pickguard and pickup. I used it on my truck and it cleaned off the wax the dealership slopped all over everything.
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  #5  
Old 02-15-2009, 03:26 PM
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Location: Halifax, NS, Canada
Prudent.

My guess is it's applicable to your bass, but it's a good idea to await word specific to the Ric.
  #6  
Old 02-15-2009, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metal Mitch View Post
Interesting... I've used naptha to clean a grimy fretboard but never to dissolve wax. And since RIC's conversion varnish is a unique finishing process, I'll wait for some more information before rolling the dice
Naptha or mineral spirits are both safe for conversion varnishes, in fact any finish which has fully cured. They both will dissolve wax. Sometimes it takes a couple applications. If you look at the ingredients in furniture paste wax you will notice that the solvent used to keep the wax in a soft state is a form of mineral spirits. The mineral spirits evaporate as you let the wax dry and you buff it to a shine.

I've used mineral spirits or naptha on all kinds of finishes without a single proble. You could soak your bass overnight in the stuff and it would not dissolve the finish.

However, since you are worried, don't try to find out anything more on line or from anyone else. Contact Ric yourself and let them tell you what to use.
  #7  
Old 02-16-2009, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 62bass View Post
Contact Ric yourself and let them tell you what to use.
LMAO!!!

I contacted Ric once about the new pickups because they didn't sound like the old ones. They told me to throw the whole bass in the garbage. Not kidding.
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  #8  
Old 02-16-2009, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metal Mitch View Post
LMAO!!!

I contacted Ric once about the new pickups because they didn't sound like the old ones. They told me to throw the whole bass in the garbage. Not kidding.
Well, I don't know then what to do. Maybe you're supposed to dispose of the bass and get a new one when it gets dirty.

Seriously, it's a paint finish. It's been properly hardened by now. Water with a little dish soap will clean grease and grime and not harm the finish. Naptha or paint thinner (not paint remover) will dissolve wax and not harm any properly hardened paint or varnish. So will alcohol, but alcohol can damage nitro lacquer and shellac so don't use that just in case. After cleaning off the old wax, wipe it down with a damp cloth with a bit of soapy water, then wipe again with a damp cloth with clean water to remove soap residue. Then rewax with a good furniture paste wax if you want.

Don't use Pledge or any spray wax containing silicone.
  #9  
Old 02-16-2009, 11:29 AM
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My thought - stop using automotive wax. Instead, use a non-abrasive polish like Virtuoso.

To remove the old wax - which IMO is good evidence that auto wax should NOT be used - I think I'd try the Virtuoso cleaner.
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  #10  
Old 02-16-2009, 12:04 PM
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Location: bronx, nyc
ricresource.com has info on that...

mcguires scratch x followed by zymoil


so, I would do that, all over again.....

check there first, and let us know how you do!


al


http://s300.photobucket.com/albums/n...adow/?start=20


the last few pics in the above link show the zymiol container....I have seen this at auto zone




and here is a thread containing alot of answers.....


mcguires scratch X and zymoil....that seems to be the ticket


http://rickresource.com/forum/viewto...ilit=scratch+x


hope that helps!
  #11  
Old 02-16-2009, 02:31 PM
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Location: NJ
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Originally Posted by rokkitt View Post
ricresource.com has info on that...

mcguires scratch x followed by zymoil


so, I would do that, all over again.....

check there first, and let us know how you do!
yep, thankks rokkit. been there, done that a year ago. that's how I got where I'm at now - a year or so later, the zymol dries out and starts to chip off.

scratchx removes the horrible-looking factory haze and swirls, which are already gone. I don't believe it's purpose is to dissolve layers of old hardened wax. the rickresource info doesn't address my current situation. which is why I came looking for more info here...
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