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  #1  
Old 10-17-2010, 03:18 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Ric truss rod adjustment tool

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I hv a 2010 ric 4003 and lately the neck is starting to bow. I read from the menu that this bass need a 1/4" wrench to adjust the rod. After reading "joey's ric bass notes"(http://www.joeysbassnotes.com/Rick%20maint.htm#tra), i still hv some questions.

Does he mean that the dual truss rods could be treated like seperate necks? Like checking the relief of the 1st half from the E string, adjust if needed. Then check 2nd half from G string n adjust again if needed.

What does the wrench needed for truss rod adjustment look like? It says 1/4", but in HK the hardware stores doesn't seem to sell it, they offer me some other options, but i'm not sure what wrench I'm looking for. Has any1 got a photo?
  #2  
Old 10-17-2010, 05:47 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: St. Louis
It isn't a wrench, it's a thin walled 1/4" nut driver. Sears sells them for like $8 or they are available at the Rickenbacker corporate website for like $20.


If your neck isn't twisted, do not adjust these rods separately. 1/4 turn on one, 1/4 turn on the other. I prefer the old style rods on the 4001.
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  #3  
Old 10-17-2010, 06:07 AM
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Location: Motor City Madness
Quote:
Originally Posted by Floyd Eye View Post
It isn't a wrench, it's a thin walled 1/4" nut driver. Sears sells them for like $8 or they are available at the Rickenbacker corporate website for like $20.


If your neck isn't twisted, do not adjust these rods separately. 1/4 turn on one, 1/4 turn on the other. I prefer the old style rods on the 4001.
Ignore this lunacy...
I hate to point this out, but a 1/4" nut driver is not what he needs. That's a tool with a female end on it and won't work.

You need a 1/4" allen wrench like so:


What Floyd Eye was trying to show you was similar to a 1/4" nut driver but it's really a 1/4" allen driver like so:


This is a tool with a male end on it, not a female end.
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Last edited by Tarrbot : 10-17-2010 at 06:17 AM.
  #4  
Old 10-17-2010, 06:13 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Nova Scotia
This is a picture of a short shank version of what you need.
The part RIC sells is the Xcelite L8.



NOTE: you should NOT use the T-handle tools, as you can apply too much torque and possibly snap the rods.
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  #5  
Old 10-17-2010, 06:16 AM
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Motor City Madness
God, what am I thinking?

No coffee yet.

Please ignore my meanderings.
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  #6  
Old 10-17-2010, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcole4001 View Post
This is a picture of a short shank version of what you need.
The part RIC sells is the Xcelite L8.



NOTE: you should NOT use the T-handle tools, as you can apply too much torque and possibly snap the rods.
Is L8 a model number or a size? I live in Hong Kong so it would be hard to get the same brand i guess (excelite). Is there an offset version etc? this looks hard to turn when trying to tighten the rod.
  #7  
Old 10-24-2010, 06:19 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
I managed to find a 1/4" driver, but the shop in my area only sell 1 size with a small handle. Does any 1 know how long do i need (from tip to end of handle)?
  #8  
Old 10-24-2010, 06:23 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: St. Louis
Lunacy?


I think not my good man.
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  #9  
Old 10-24-2010, 06:27 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: St. Louis
It doesn't need to be extra long or anything. The main thing will be the thickness of the socket end, as it will need to be thin enough to slip over the nut, in between the wall of the pocket. What you have will most likely work. You do NOT need much torque. In fact, torque is your enemy when dealing with truss rods. Trust me, I HAVE had my morning coffee.
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  #10  
Old 10-24-2010, 07:12 AM
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i've got the driver, it fit the rods but the headstock is in the way. The shop only sells this, i just wonder how long is the xcelite L8
  #11  
Old 10-24-2010, 07:37 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: St. Louis
I have no idea. The one I use is just an $8 cheapie. It is tight against the headstock, but with CAREFUL flexing it isn't a problem. Be careful not to strip the nuts, which shouldn't be too terribly tight to begin with.

Are you saying the driver slips over the nut but you cannot get enough leverage to turn it? Try using pliers on the handle of the nutdriver, to loosen the nuts only, then tighten by hand.
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  #12  
Old 10-25-2010, 12:53 AM
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What I'm trying to do is to straighten the neck. Local hardware shops only sell this driver i'm holding, it fits the nut but i can't get my hand in to turn the thing. Your driver is the same size as mine too? (tight against the headstock)

Another question, joey's ric site said the trussrod has to be adjusted while the strings are in tune. Won't it be too stiff to turn?
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Last edited by Zakmusic : 10-25-2010 at 12:59 AM.
  #13  
Old 10-25-2010, 03:45 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: St. Louis
Carefully grab the handle of the nutdriver with a pair of pliers.


I always detune mine, but I have to say, I think Joey Vasco knows what he's talking about so you should listen to him.
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