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View Poll Results: how to keep the saddles from bottoming out? | |
file down the saddles
|   | 8 | 6.15% | |
put a shim in the neck pocket
|   | 117 | 90.00% | |
remove wood from under the bridge
|   | 5 | 3.85% |  | | 
08-07-2009, 11:20 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Montreal, Canada | | | saddles bottoming out
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My saddles are bottomed out on my fretless bass, and I would like to have my action lower. There is no buzz anywhere, so the fingerboard seems good enough to go lower.
I see 3 options, other suggestions would be welcome.
1: I could file down the saddles, but my bass is a fender Steve Bailey, and the saddles are massive and complex, so it's not that easy.
2: Put something in the neck pocket to change the neck angle or simply raise it with respect to the body. That would make the neck heel bigger and less comfortable though (and less contact between neck and body = less sustain?)
3: Remove a few mm of wood under the bridge plate. This seems pretty dangerous and not reversible, so not my favored option.
What should I do? | 
08-07-2009, 11:25 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Minneapolis | | | #2- shim the neck pocket.
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08-07-2009, 11:45 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: El paso, TX | | Quote:
Originally Posted by thobbinghotrod #2- shim the neck pocket. | +1
That's what fender's been doing to almost every bass that i've ever laid my hands on.A 1/4 "piece of sandpaper as wide as the pocket will make a huge difference. | 
08-07-2009, 11:48 PM
| | | | how about filing down the nut?
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08-08-2009, 01:18 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Framingham, Massachusetts | | | i would recommend against filing anything down, saddle or nut. it would be way to easy to cut to deep and then you're screwed. just try out a neck shim, its easy and quick and won't ruin your bass (btw i wasn't familiar with the steve bailey model... wow is that a looker!)
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08-08-2009, 01:52 AM
|  | Registered User Owner: BassStringsOnline.com | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: LA California | | | D-Tune... | 
08-08-2009, 06:36 AM
|  | Registered User Artist: Genz Benz/ AccuGroove/MLP Basses | | Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: The O-X baby! (Oxford Mi.) | | | I just want to know who the heck picked "Remove Wood From Under Bridge"!!
Seriously??!!??
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08-08-2009, 06:45 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Austin TX | | Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeBass I just want to know who the heck picked "Remove Wood From Under Bridge"!!
Seriously??!!?? | not i but if your instrument doesn't have much monetary value and you want the strings low to the body it is an option. that said i voted shim the neck, (at least) half of my fender style basses have them.
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08-08-2009, 06:48 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Halifax, NS, Canada | | | Search is your friend. The Hardware/Setup/Repair forum might have an entry or two on this issue. | 
08-08-2009, 07:03 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cottage Grove, St. Paul suburb | | | Your problem is precisely what a shim is intended to fix. | 
08-08-2009, 07:05 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Lakeland, FL | | Quote:
Originally Posted by w33nie how about filing down the nut? |
Not a fan of shims..........
I really HATE the idea of neck shims or those DAMN "adjust O tilt" systems. The adjustable systems do nothing more than allow mismatched components to be easily assembled with no skilled fitting required. The neck/body joint is the most important and critical part of a bolt on bass and there should be 100% contact. If anything, take the time to properly fill and recut the entire neck pocket. Checking things like the overall setup and bridge adjustment is something that should be done even when buying a new bass.
Last edited by FL Knifemaker : 08-08-2009 at 07:07 AM.
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08-08-2009, 07:10 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Midwest Ohio | | | shim the whole neck pocket, problem solved.
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08-08-2009, 07:11 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: somewhere in middle America | | | Provided the set-up is correct, this is troubling to hear that the Steve Bailey bass's saddles bottom out. There are MANY companies who do nothing different for their fretless basses, which often results in very high nut settings and saddles that can't get low enough.
I had the same problem with a fretless Peavey of mine, but grounding down the ABM saddles wasn't too difficult. | 
08-08-2009, 07:11 AM
| | Old enough to know better.....too young to care! | | Join Date: May 2009 Location: Ellenboro, NC | | Quote:
Originally Posted by w33nie how about filing down the nut? |
NOOOoooooooooooo   
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08-08-2009, 07:32 AM
|  | More fool me. | | Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Cincy, OH | | | Many many many bolt-ons can benefit from a proper shim. It's just a fact of life. If you go to a hobby or wood crafting store you can get thin pieces of maple or basswood and do a proper shim. I don't care for the credit card method anymore.
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08-08-2009, 08:08 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Bodø, Norway | | | This is probably too obvious, but have you tried tightening the neck?
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08-08-2009, 08:28 AM
|  | Supporting Member and fetch player | | Join Date: May 2003 Location: Colorado, USA | | | Are you using the original bridge, or a replacement? I hate it when bridge saddles are too large to adjust as low as needed. Anyway, a neck shim is the way to go, IMO.
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08-08-2009, 08:39 AM
| | | | Had the same prob. SHIM with something very thin, ie business card at best. I think a tiny piece of sandpaper is common with luthiers. DON'T cut nut or wood!!! | 
08-08-2009, 08:50 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by alexbib My saddles are bottomed out on my fretless bass, and I would like to have my action lower. There is no buzz anywhere, so the fingerboard seems good enough to go lower.
I see 3 options, other suggestions would be welcome.
1: I could file down the saddles, but my bass is a fender Steve Bailey, and the saddles are massive and complex, so it's not that easy.
2: Put something in the neck pocket to change the neck angle or simply raise it with respect to the body. That would make the neck heel bigger and less comfortable though (and less contact between neck and body = less sustain?)
3: Remove a few mm of wood under the bridge plate. This seems pretty dangerous and not reversible, so not my favored option.
What should I do? | 1: is the correct thing to do and it's just part of a normal setup, but if you can't do #1 non-destructively, you should:
4: return it and get your money back.
It's ridiculous to have to mess with shims and start hacking and grinding on a $3000+ bass. Never keep a new bass that requires that much invasion to set it up - Take it back and let Fender deal. Get a different model bass for yourself.
I have a carvin BB76F on the way myself. They use a hipshot bridge with roller saddles on it that can't be filed down. That's the first setup item I'm going to check when I get it in a few weeks - can the strings be lowered enough before the saddles bottom out. If not, it's going back to Carvin that day  .
Having to take a new bass apart or get out chisels or routers means it has to go back to where you bought it.
LS | 
08-08-2009, 09:09 AM
| | | | Do not remove wood from under the bridge! Shim the neck. Only file the nut slots after the saddle, neck angle and neck relief are all in balance. There is a balance between all four of these to get a great setup. Invest in the Guitar Player Repair Guide by Dan Erlewine and read it. It is invaluable to understanding the dynamics of guitar design and function and will help you determine when to get professional help and what they should be recommending you do. (Quick neck angle check method: use the straightest yardstick or other long VERY STRAIGHT object you have. Place it on the neck and see where the end lines up with the top of the saddle. It should be line up VERY close to the top of the saddle, if it is above or below a neck reset or shim is in order.)
Last edited by Stu_Bass : 08-08-2009 at 09:13 AM.
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