Sanding the Back of My Neck ???

Quadzilla · #1 11-04-2007, 01:50 PM

All,

Just got my new (to me) Bacchus from my good buddy FL Knifemaker here on TB. Anyway, LOVE the bass. It really did well at our gig last night. I had one of our regular fans come up and tell me how great it sounded.

ANYWAY....... one of the few things I don't dig about it is the poly finish on the back of the neck. It's a pretty "sticky" finish and I prefer satin finishes or sanded necks. I've never sanded or refinished a neck myself. In any case, I want to sand this one, but want to do it right. Any pointers on how to do this? Types of sand paper to use (grit) and how long to use each grit and in what order, etc? I don't plan on refinishing the neck, just sanding it to get most of the poly off.

Thanks!

P.S. - I also just ordered a Bad Ass II and a Audere pre-amp for the bass. I prefer active basses and the DiMarzios in it while GREAT sounding, seem to be just a hair mid-shy.

BassmanDk · #2 11-04-2007, 01:59 PM

Hi Quad.

Look here Getting rid of the neck finish on my Sadowsky

I made a post explaining how you can take away the finish.

try it and let me know how it turns out.

Rumblin' Man · #3 11-04-2007, 02:08 PM

Just knocking off the shine with a 3M gray finishing pad does right by me.

Baird6869 · #4 11-04-2007, 02:13 PM

Buy the finest sandpaper you can find and sand it lightly. 800 or 1000 on my Geddy Lee Jazz worked great.

FL Knifemaker · #5 11-04-2007, 02:14 PM

I should have stuck a 3M pad in the case with it !!

Glad you like the Bacchus, it's a super passive Jazz for sure.

clink · #6 11-04-2007, 02:22 PM

Start with something like 120-180 to get the finish off and progress to finer paper to smooth it out. It isn't necessary to go as fine as 400. I have used linseed, Watco and Tru Oil all with good results. A maple neck that I finished with Tru oil two years ago has hardened to the point that it almost resembles a lacquer finish so I'm not crazy about that.
Linseed works well, but takes a long time to dry. For this reason, Watco is a good choice. I have applied a few coats, letting each one dry for a couple of hours. All of my necks are finished off with 0000 steel wool and Johnson Paste Wax for a great feeling, fast neck.
I used Lemon oil many years ago on a maple neck and it quickly turned green, so I don't recommend that.
Whatever you do, you should at least use some type of oil to protect it from warping.

Fealach · #7 11-04-2007, 03:18 PM

You might want some whisky, to take the edge off, and some bandages and antiseptic to treat the back of your neck after you have sanded it. It will hurt, and you'll need to be careful it doesn't get infected while it heals.

BassmanDk · #8 11-04-2007, 03:39 PM

[quote=clink;4869502]
I used Lemon oil many years ago on a maple neck and it quickly turned green, so I don't recommend that.
[quote]

I've used Lemon Oil for many years as a pro setup and repairguy; never saw a neck turn green!!! Never!!

stillborn86 · #9 11-04-2007, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fealach

You might want some whisky, to take the edge off, and some bandages and antiseptic to treat the back of your neck after you have sanded it. It will hurt, and you'll need to be careful it doesn't get infected while it heals.

What? Yeah ok, what an unnecessary post.

7string · #10 11-04-2007, 03:57 PM

Some 0000 wire wool works as well. Really takes the heaviness off the finish but still keeps some on there. Only takes a couple of minutes....

mustbampeg · #11 11-04-2007, 04:26 PM

I use a razor blade. stand the bass upright (headstock pointin toward the ceiling) between your legs. Hold the razorblade perpindicular to the neck and scrape away. Be careful to scrape evenly, or you will create pits and valleys in the back of the neck. It doesnt matter a whole lot, because once you get the poly off, then sand it down to your preference and smoothness. takes 15 minutes, tops.
btw, make sure you cover the floor or you will get shavings everywhere.
good luck

clink · #12 11-04-2007, 05:31 PM

[quote=BassmanDk;4869695][quote=clink;4869502]
I used Lemon oil many years ago on a maple neck and it quickly turned green, so I don't recommend that.

Quote:

I've used Lemon Oil for many years as a pro setup and repairguy; never saw a neck turn green!!! Never!!

It didn't work for me. In my experience, products sold as Lemon Oil may be any number of things including Mineral Oil. I'm not talking about the Lemon Oil sold for guitar use. I have only used Linseed oil on fingerboards, so I have no experience with what you might use.

I only know what has worked for me in the past.

Rumblin' Man · #13 11-04-2007, 06:02 PM

OK, I just now had occasion to take the 3M pad I mentioned earlier to the back of an Allparts neck I have and found it didn't knock off the shine all that much (tough finish) so I reverted to my trusty 0000 steel wool and that did the trick.

bassman10096 · #14 11-04-2007, 06:31 PM

...yeah, and if you liked this advice, I've got some terrific pointers on how to fill your own dental cavities.

Seriously - Do the least you possibly can to get the feel you are looking for. Some of the suggestions above are likely to do more than you want and you will be risking an expensive bass in the process if you don't know what you are doing.

Start with the 3M pad idea and see if you like it. Lots of players just periodically take the shine off this way and are plenty happy with the result. It should give you something like a satin finish. If you want more, go to an auto parts store and get 1500 (yes, fifteen hundred) grit wet/dry paper. Wet sand with plain water, drying frequently until you have a satin finish (this is how most luthiers do it). If you really want more of an open-grain wood finish, find some good step by step pointers then check with the folks in Setup and Repair. It ain't rocket surgery, but just starting to hack away at a nice neck is begging for trouble.

Blues Bass 2 · #15 11-04-2007, 06:49 PM

I'm assuming the 3M pad is Scotchbrite.The one I've used was the green chore pad and it did knock the gloss off a few Essex bass necks without a lot of work or mess.It changed a gloss neck finish to more of a satin feel.I did mine because the basses were inexpensive and that gloss finish could make sliding your hand up and down the neck harder.It only takes about 5 minutes and made a big difference in the way it feels.It doesn't take the whole finish off,just makes it smoother.After you're done just wipe the dust off with a damp cloth.

BassmanDk · #16 11-06-2007, 04:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mustbampeg

I use a razor blade. stand the bass upright (headstock pointin toward the ceiling) between your legs. Hold the razorblade perpindicular to the neck and scrape away. Be careful to scrape evenly, or you will create pits and valleys in the back of the neck. It doesnt matter a whole lot, because once you get the poly off, then sand it down to your preference and smoothness. takes 15 minutes, tops.
btw, make sure you cover the floor or you will get shavings everywhere.
good luck

NO NO NO NO NO!!!!!!!

If you don't know what you're doing, you can ruin a bass neck completely.
And yes Good luck(you'll need it!!!!)

If this is the first time you're doing this, take it slow, as another TB'er says. You can always take more off but it's damn hard to add some neckfinish.

Juniorkimbrough · #17 11-06-2007, 07:43 AM

On my necks I use a 600 grit sandpaper and lightly sand til I get all the gloss off.

RSmith · #18 11-06-2007, 08:02 AM

I usually tape off the parts I don't want blemished with blue painters tape. That will also give you straight edges where the sanded and finished wood meet (like the neck on a Stingray). + 1 on the tru-oil

**Chef** · #19 11-06-2007, 09:03 AM

While the razorblade deal may work for that one poster, please don't...
The Scotchbright or sandpaper is much easier to get an even finish with.
If you take it to bare wood, Tru Oil, Boiled Linseed, or Watco Danish Oil works very well as a finish/sealant/protectant.

mustbampeg · #20 11-06-2007, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BassmanDk

NO NO NO NO NO!!!!!!!

If you don't know what you're doing, you can ruin a bass neck completely.
And yes Good luck(you'll need it!!!!)

If this is the first time you're doing this, take it slow, as another TB'er says. You can always take more off but it's damn hard to add some neckfinish.

oh, please.....you guys are acting like a bunch of old ladies....This is not rocket science. If you want the neck down to the bare wood, the razor blade is the idea. Of course im not sure i would recommend doing this to a a $2k+ bass with an exotic wood neck. I wouldnt take sandpaper to it, either. Im not sure what a Bacchus is, but if you are considering adding a new bridge and electronics, then i assumed that its not a $2k+ bass. If im wrong, then i stand corrected and would probably not mess with it all. However, if you still want to take the neck down to the bare wood, the razor blade is the best and easiest way to do it without spending hours and hours of sanding. works for me, and as long as your careful, it will work for you as well. and btw, dont roll your eyes at me,